Error lights came up on dash, TC, ABS, Stab Cont, Diff Lock with 3 bells

Hi, Long time lurker and first post on this forum.
I have a 2014 GU Y61, 3L manual. Has 2" ARB lift, 3" Redback exhaust, both fitted over a year ago. (This is my third GU)
This morning when driving to work, I had the Traction control, Stability Control, Diff Lock and ABS lights come on and the bell 'dinged' 3 times (I think it was 3), then they went off after 50 meters, the cycle then repeated a few more times and stopped (I hope)
I'm about to head off on a 10,000k Kimberly trip and am a little concerned about this, I've tried searching this forum but not able to find anything specific. Does anyone know what this could be or point me at info to see what it was trying to tell me ?
Hope someone can help, Thanks, Rob

First off post an intro before asking questions just polite and all
so welcome to the forum, and enjoy
As for your problem you need to disconnect
your battery for 45mins or more. Go out and buy yourself a Scan-gauge best
bit of kit you can buy for a CRD diesel Patrol

Wot he said ^^^^

Scan gauge or equivalent will all but pay for itself on a trip like that by fuel saving plus give you better idea of coolant temp, boost pressure etc etc.

I don't know the later GU's well enough to help with the symptoms other than that Traction, Stab and ABS all share many components.
Yendor or someone with better experience will know more

Thanks guys, I'll do a quick into on that forum, didn't intend to be rude. Not much more to say though...

I have a scan gauge but it's not throwing up any codes, just lighting up and getting the bells.. I went for a drive to pick up some Oil at lunch and it's still happening. The bells just chime util the lights go out, not 3 or 4 etc.

Also, curious on how you would use scan gauge to reduce fuel use ? ? Am I missing something ?

Thanks, Rob

Sorry, forgot to add that I did install a Projecta DC to DC charger last weekend.. It did have a VSR since new, just decided to look after the aux battery a bit more and use it for solar MPPT input.. That seems to be behaving normally and it doesn't seem to trigger the lights.. ie. when it goes from Bulk to Absorption to Float etc.. No tie in at all..

Sorry to spam this thread but seems I may have my answer due to forcing my thought processes through this thread.. When I installed the Projecta DC to DC charger, it had an ignition wire that should have been wired to ignition power for vehicles with a 'Smart Alternator'.. I assumed the old tractor had a standard alternator but Batteries Direct who I bought it from set me straight, it aparantley does have one.. So I'll wire that in and expect it to be fixed. (fingers crossed)

ScanGauge won’t read faults in the ABS, ESC or with the factory diff lock.

Where did you mount the Projecta unit?

Have you recently done and 4WD?

It sounds like the system thinks the rear diff lock is on.

Hi folks, thanks for your replies, it's a sign of a healthy forum helping a new poster / old member.
I wired up the ignition wire to the IDC25 charger and no more lights & bells today !! I really just needed to put my brain in gear, I panicked with the trip starting so soon.
Yendor, I mounted it between the Aux Battery & the ABS pump. Made a bracket to mount it vertically and just need to put a bit of heat shielding between the turbo and the Battery & Charger now.
All seems to be working a treat now, hope it stays that way.

Thanks for your help, Robbo

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

Just double check the two vacuum lines for the rear diff lock near where you mounted the charger. The lines run from the solenoid mounted on the top of the firewall (near the passenger side bonnet hinge) and run down beside the ABS pump. Make sure they are both still connected and the hose hasn’t split.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rob107672

Also, curious on how you would use scan gauge to reduce fuel use ? ? Am I missing something ?

Thanks, Rob

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Scan gauge will show you instantaneous and average fuel use.
You will be amazed at the difference just some small driving habit changes will affect fuel use
When and when not to use 5th esp when towing...
When to downshift gears...
When driving like Miss Daisy is actually worse (CRDs in any vehicle tend to like firm acceleration up to cruise etc rather than 'softly 'softly on the gas)
If you stay away from the really high fuel flows the change in Litres per Hundred K's is well worth it and hardly noticeable in trip time etc

They display 4 parameters at once so I usually had mine set to Boost pressure, Coolant temp, Avg fuel and the 4th depended a bit on what I was doing

Thanks for your help Yendor, the problem came back on the weekend so I used your fault finding factory diff lock problems thread to work through what was happening. I moved the vacuum lines to direct vacuum and managed to get the diff lock to lock and unlock this way. There was no vacuum at either the lock or unlock from the solenoid so traced it back from there. Long story short, found the vacuum line that runs to the black plastic canister (assume it's a vacuum reservoir) has a one way non return valve in it and likes to be installed the right way round.. Who knew there was a valve in the rubber hose, a quick suck test either way found the problem.
I suspect the gears in the diff were starting to engage without the unlock vacuum from the solenoid present and that was cause of my troubles. Ready for the Kimberley now :-)
Thanks guys ! :bowdown:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yendor

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

Just double check the two vacuum lines for the rear diff lock near where you mounted the charger. The lines run from the solenoid mounted on the top of the firewall (near the passenger side bonnet hinge) and run down beside the ABS pump. Make sure they are both still connected and the hose hasn’t split.

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Good feedback Rob. We all learn from each others woes this way.