2004 GU IV 3.0l engine troubles, help

Hi guys.

My name is Guy and as the title says i've just bought a 04 GU IV 3.0DI with 207k on the clock. No mods on her and i'm trying to download a manual off here. not allowed to do so until i write some posts:)
Anyway the car drives ok but it was used on a farm and well lets just say the paint isnt perfect haha. Interior mainly needs a good clean and i recon will come up nice with some elbow grease. The dash, well as expected is completely melted. Found a upholstery shop that recovers them for $200:)

Now the bad point, The engine to have no power under 2000revs. When i open the oil cap it has quite a bit of crankcase pressure and blows out a fair amount of oil:( I've do a head gasket test with the tk leak tester and it seems to be ok. I'll be pulling it apart, intercooler, rocker cover and do a compression test before the weekend. Whats the best way to compression test from, glow plugs or injectors?


Would any one be able to advice on what could cause the crankcase pressure? And also what compression values a healthy engine normally has?

Thx
Guy

G'day and welcome to the forum mate.

Quote:

---

Found a upholstery shop that recovers them for $200

---

We would like to know who that is please.

Quote:

---

Whats the best way to compression test from, glow plugs or injectors?

---

Probably the glow plugs.

Quote:

---

Would any one be able to advice on what could cause the crankcase pressure

---

Crankcase pressure usually is caused by rings worn out, but you say you have done a leak down test and this would normally show if the rings are gone.

Thx for the reply 4bye4

I'll get the upholstery shop contacts and post it here soon

The test i've done is a head gasket leak test to check if the head is blown using the tee kay tester kit.

I have a bad feeling about it:( Any one know the compression values? I'll try and get my hands on a leak down test kit

Hey mate just did a quick search seems 350 is the lower limit, youd be wanting around 400 + psi i reckon with max 40 psi difference, don't have the exact figures hopefully someone will help. Yep definatly glow plugs is easiest on a warm engine & good battery.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rossco

Hey mate just did a quick search seems 350 is the lower limit, youd be wanting around 400 + psi i reckon with max 40 psi difference, don't have the exact figures hopefully someone will help. Yep definatly glow plugs is easiest on a warm engine & good battery.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

---

Thx for the reply Rossco.

Also No lights on the dash. No milky cap, no coolant leaks seen so far. Havent driven it enough to see coolant go down. doesn't over heat. White smoke 100% appeared and now gone. havent driven it since.

Pulled the glow plugs out today and stupid comp tester lead doesnt fit in the glow plug tube so will have to find another. Now can i just put the rocker cover back on and warm the engine at idle without putting the intercooler back on?
This is how they looked
https://ibb.co/hBikAv

Also why is the intake manifold looking like this, all the crap only on one side?
https://ibb.co/dwAbHa

Hi Guy
Welcome to the forum!
The glow plug ceramic tips dont look too bad. A bit of deposit on the shanks of 1&4?
I cant answer your question regarding the manifold, as mine was caked in both. I think the EGR is located over the left orifice. has the EGR been blanked on your new truck?
I'm interested to see how this goes...

Not much has happened over the weekend I'm unable to find that elusive adaptor!! Any ideas where i could get one?

Thx

Yesterday I replaced the fuel filter, unfortunately the car is still the same. however i came across this (the grey fitting in the fuel supply line)
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/...psprgnmgrn.jpg

I've taken it off and replaced with a new fuel hose. Its a one way check valve. the engine bay of the car is covered in red dust except for that so it must have been added recently. any ideas why? Worn IP pump?

I'm not able to do the comp test for a week as im waiting for the adaptor thats coming by post from over east. Any suggestions of what I could try and check till then?
Thx

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Guyph_01

I've taken it off and replaced with a new fuel hose. Its a one way check valve. the engine bay of the car is covered in red dust except for that so it must have been added recently. any ideas why? Worn IP pump?

I'm not able to do the comp test for a week as im waiting for the adaptor thats coming by post from over east. Any suggestions of what I could try and check till then?
Thx

---

Are you having hard starting problems when the vehicle has been standing for a while? A check valve is to prevent the fuel returning to the tank and having to be pumped up again every time you start. If all lines and pump is good it should not be required. Somebody may have been trying to correct a problem by treating the symptoms. There is a mod you can do which adds a lift pump near the fuel tank to assist fuel feed to the injector pump. The injector pumps can have trouble "pulling" fuel especially when old and/or old fuel lines.

Well since i bought it it starts pretty easy. haven't drove it much yet. I ll try and start it this avo after work as it would have sat for 12hrs then.
Also looking at doing a NADS on it. Fit the dawes valve, oil catch can boost and egt gauge. Could anyone tell me the best spot to put the egt probe on a std exhaust system?

Thx

I'm not a diesel expert, but maybe leaky injector/s? As above, the check valve was put in to treat a symptom (fuel returning back to the tank). If the injectors are leaky you could lose pressure after sitting for a bit. Just a thought.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Guyph_01

Well since i bought it it starts pretty easy. haven't drove it much yet. I ll try and start it this avo after work as it would have sat for 12hrs then.
Also looking at doing a NADS on it. Fit the dawes valve, oil catch can boost and egt gauge. Could anyone tell me the best spot to put the egt probe on a std exhaust system?

Thx

---

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/247.jpg
Mines in the dump pipe just after the turbo outlet. I think it's a good idea to set your gauge up before doing the NADS so you can see what temps you are getting with the factory set up. The position of the probe and even the brand of gauge may change the reading, and if you don't know what it was reading before you won't know what difference you make.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 4bye4

Mines in the dump pipe just after the turbo outlet. I think it's a good idea to set your gauge up before doing the NADS so you can see what temps you are getting with the factory set up. The position of the probe and even the brand of gauge may change the reading, and if you don't know what it was reading before you won't know what difference you make.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Good point. Thx for the pic but mine still has the std exhaust system on it. Anyone know if i still need to weld on a fitting or can tap into it somewhere?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Guyph_01

Good point. Thx for the pic but mine still has the std exhaust system on it. Anyone know if i still need to weld on a fitting or can tap into it somewhere?

---

You can drill and wld in a thread, or buy a new dump pipe pre drilled with a cap in it. you need to take the heat cover off the exhaust to see what is under it. I gor a new dump pipe and set it up then just changed over. Redarc also make a clamp thingingy but not sure about the resukts of that.

Hello Guy,
I would be interested in knowing about the dash fix. I like yourself have to do a number of post to d/l the manual.
Just a thanks for the members whom add to the forum..

Hi,

Yes forgot about that.. The company is called Northside Motor Trimmimg. 92473661. I havent used them yet as I'm still trying to figure out whats wrong with the car. Was told about $250-200. If someone gets their dash covered I'd be keen to find out how it turned out:)

Hi Guy
I went for the drill and tap option for the fitting of my probe.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Daveyboyjunior

Hi Guy
I went for the drill and tap option for the fitting of my probe.

---

Hummm didnt think of that. Would have saved me the trouble of removing the heat shield, dump and going around looking for a bolt to weld on the exhaust. Oh well, the dump is out now. Ok so whats the best spot to position the prob? I see yours Daveyboyjunior is just before the bend. is that a good spot?

http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/...psv3z6swtv.jpg

Also, I've been reading that the accelerator sensor can cause issues. Anyway of testing it with a multi meter like they do with the MAF?

Thx

Hi Guy, refer to 4bye4s photo earlier. That's the perfect spot!
As long as the probe tip achieves centre of the exhaust when installed it can go anywhere around the diameter of the pipe really. Hope that makes sense.
My doing it this way, did avoid the removal of the heat shield which I know is really awkward with the ac pipes in the way. Perhaps you've got some tips on how you got yours out!
As for the accelerator sensor causing issues....that's news to me.

Honestly I can't really remember. with some brute force and wiggling it around. No idea if ill be able to put it back it the same way. Had to remove the IC hoses to get to the bolts but everything else wasn't touched.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Guyph_01

Well since i bought it it starts pretty easy. haven't drove it much yet. I ll try and start it this avo after work as it would have sat for 12hrs then.
Also looking at doing a NADS on it. Fit the dawes valve, oil catch can boost and egt gauge. Could anyone tell me the best spot to put the egt probe on a std exhaust system?

Thx

---

Most ppl fit the bung hole for the EGT probe just on the bend on the dump pipe about 100mm - 150mm post turbo.
Wait till you get a high flow cat and do things at the same time, You may want to ceramic coat the dump pipe or as some
have done is wrap in exhaust material. Its all about thermo dynamics and keeping the heat where it belongs inside the pipe
and not radiating out, and causing hot spots. . Thats why Ive fitted a turbo beanie keeps the heat inside the turbo and pipe
and also keeps my Aux battery very cool another plus to stop your aux battery exploding. food for thought.

Some battery places wont fix an aux battery your a 3lt TD patrol

You dont need 25 posts to download the manuals there you go download away;
Next check your intercooler if its oily its leaking, Disconnect the battery remove the IC
and rinse with kere or carbie cleaner, dry with the hair dryer before re installing.
You can pressure test by taping up the outlets use a bike pump to introduce a little
air and dunk in a kiddies pong or bath which ever works best for you. Replace all your vacuume hoses
20c a mtr,remembering what goes where. Now remove your MAF sensor with the correct tool and with some spray
from Super Cheap auto and give the wire a decent spray dont touch with your hand or anything else for that matter.
now re assyeble, You really need a boost adaptor so you can fit a boost gauge easily anolg with a EGT gauge ,,either
in a pillow pod or on dash gauge pod, Check what boost youre running, should be about 16psi or there abouts.
re connect the battery order a new tigged OE IC you wont need a big CC IC just a waste of money on a 3 ltr
if you ask me, See how you go after all that

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

You dont need 25 posts to download the manuals there you go download away;
Next check your intercooler if its oily its leaking, Disconnect the battery remove the IC
and rinse with kere or carbie cleaner, dry with the hair dryer before re installing.
You can pressure test by taping up the outlets use a bike pump to introduce a little
air and dunk in a kiddies pong or bath which ever works best for you. Replace all your vacuume hoses
20c a mtr,remembering what goes where. Now remove your MAF sensor with the correct tool and with some spray
from Super Cheap auto and give the wire a decent spray dont touch with your hand or anything else for that matter.
now re assyeble, You really need a boost adaptor so you can fit a boost gauge easily anolg with a EGT gauge ,,either
in a pillow pod or on dash gauge pod, Check what boost youre running, should be about 16psi or there abouts.
re connect the battery order a new tigged OE IC you wont need a big CC IC just a waste of money on a 3 ltr
if you ask me, See how you go after all that

---

Amazing reply :) thx a lot for that but today i've finally extended my compression fitting and did a comp test on a warmed up engine. While warming up, If i reved her she would produce white smoke:(
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/...psvpzsk21k.jpg

Anyway after she was warm i pulled the rocker and glow plugs off and tested each cyl.

300, 310, 320 and 300:animierte-smilies-f

I was told std comp value is 426psi and min is 330psi

I wasnt sure if my ebay comp tester was faulty or my welding on the extension was so i dropped some oil in the first cyl and tried again, 420psi :..(
Looks like i've got fucked rings!! and will need to fix that below any mods.

I had a bad feeling from the start, unfortunately the day i took her for a test drive she didnt show any smoke only the power issue that i assumed was a leaking STD IC or something else due to it not having NADS.
Anyway, Would anyone in WA be able to recommend a good place i can get the engine parts cleaned, head machined checked etc and get a rebuild kit from? I've been looking around and got some prices already but maybe you guys know other better places:)

Again thx everyone for their input. will keep posting and maybe start a new build thread:)

Or anyone got a good ZD30 i could use?