free wheeling hubs rusted bolts problem

hi all.
i currently have a small problem at the moment and was hoping someone might have a solutions to my dilema.

i bought a gq for it's engine (it's almost cleaned and ready to go into my truck, can't wait to have a diesel !) but i also require the final drives out of it, 4.1 ratios, the rpoblem i have is that the 6 screws that hold the free wheel hub in place are SEVERLY rusted. to the point that i can't get them off. i was wondering if anyone might have a solution to this problem

so far i've soaked them in wd40 for about two weeks, twice sprayed during the week and about 6 times on the weekends. still no movement. hit the crap out of the allen key, with approx. 8" extension bar and hammer. no movement. got the same size ring spanner as the allen key, another spanner on the end with an extension bar on the last spanner, about 16" extension all up, hung off, hit with hammer and brickies mallet, swore at it a lot, just about broke my thumb as the allen key sprung loose and everything went in the air. swore at it more. still no movemnt.
i am wondering if there may be a specialist tool out there that someone has used and could explain to me or would jury rigging an allen key to fit into the rattle gun be too much and strip the bolt head, and please dont mention the angle grinder as yes i've thought about it. but the diff needs to be in one piece for selling. i just need the shafts moved out so i can remove the final drive.

any help or ideas would be much appreciated on how to move rusted bolts, once again apart from the drill and angle grinder.....last resort.

give the front of the bolt heads a couple of reasonable taps with a hammer.

Forget the angle grinder.............i prefer an oxy torch :)

You'll need a more heavy duty corrosion penetrator than wd40 mate - I'll have a hunt in the garage for the name of some stuff I used to get the nuts off the swaybar mounts - they wouldn't move even with heat, buy let this stuff soak in over a couple of applications and they finally came loose!! Good luck with it and no doubt others may know the name of the gear in the meantime (small bottle - red liquid).

The other thing which is a bit of a mechanics "friend" is brake fluid .. don't ask me the chemistry, wouldn't have a clue, buy have read about it on a couple of other forums.

You can buy hex sockets the right size that will fit on a 1/2" breaker bar, that's what I use on tight ones.

Tony

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Originally Posted by Bigrig

(small bottle - red liquid).

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Isn't that loctite??? He is trying to loosen em Scotty not make it harder 2 get off *LMAO*

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toddrhind

Isn't that loctite??? He is trying to loosen em Scotty not make it harder 2 get off *LMAO*

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isn't Loctite a red bottle and blue liquid???? roflmao

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Originally Posted by clunk71

isn't Loctite a red bottle and blue liquid???? roflmao

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hahahahaha, ur right, me wrong, but in my case it always depends on how much i have consumed when applyin it 2 as what colour is what *L*

and bigrig is the winner. brake fluid and a 1.2m breaker bar works, just, running out of 8mm allen keys though, but it works. THANKS HEAPS. X1 case i think

Good stuff mate!! Glad you're sorting it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toddrhind

Isn't that loctite??? He is trying to loosen em Scotty not make it harder 2 get off *LMAO*

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Hahaha .. clown!!! I do get confused at times though!! lol

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Originally Posted by 69darocket

and bigrig is the winner. brake fluid and a 1.2m breaker bar works, just, running out of 8mm allen keys though, but it works. THANKS HEAPS. X1 case i think

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I would invest in a 8mm hex socket half inch drive for next time though. As playing with patrols you are going to need it.

Tim

Three of mine where stripped, so I ended up using the angle grinder option to put a flat edge on th bolt heads, this let me be get a small cold chisel on to the head to get them moving. Once they where loosened they came undone easly.


I purchased the 8mm drive bit from Bursons.

Got replacement bolts from a bolt guy

:xxxx:
Super home brew penetrating oil, 1000x better than WD40.
- 50% acetone
- 45% brake fuild
- 5% ATF

Do NOT get it near paint though and as with all penetrating oils, repeated application and give it time to work.
Acetone evaporates after time so only make small batches as needed.

Then BFH, if in doubt give it a clout ! if that doesn't work then get a bigger one !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rbailey

:xxxx:
Super home brew penetrating oil, 1000x better than WD40.
- 50% acetone
- 45% brake fuild
- 5% ATF

Do NOT get it near paint though and as with all penetrating oils, repeated application and give it time to work.
Acetone evaporates after time so only make small batches as needed.

Then BFH, if in doubt give it a clout ! if that doesn't work then get a bigger one !

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Thanks mate - I'm gunna try that on the rear sway bar pins - passenger side seized up - have hit it with a commercial penetrant and some serious heat, and won't budge ...