What are people thoughts on 5w-40 fully synthetic as an oil for these ZD30 motors?
To thin, too think, too syntheticky or spot on. To me it looks like the bees kness.
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What are people thoughts on 5w-40 fully synthetic as an oil for these ZD30 motors?
To thin, too think, too syntheticky or spot on. To me it looks like the bees kness.
I'm positive the mechanic we use only puts synthetic in my GQ and the bosses GU 3.0
ZD30 needs semi synthetic 10W-40 oil, or that's what Nissan seems to be very particular about when recommending the oil for Y61 with ZD30.
You can extend the drain interval with synthetic oil but remember that not all synthetic oils are equal indeed it is a dodgy area for oil industry basically its a jungle out there.
What they don't tell you is the process and how there are 5 different classes of oils bases and everything revolves around how they're refined.....
Synthetic word relates motor oilQuote:
Group I — Solvent-refined crude oil. High wax and aromatic (organic matter) content. Used in low-grade conventional motor oils.
Group II — Hydrotreated crude oil refining process. Less wax and aromatic content. Used in the majority of conventional motor oils.
Group III — Wax isomerized or hydrocracked crude oil refining process. Group III base stocks are considered synthetic because their molecular structures are altered through an intended chemical reaction. Very low wax and aromatic content. Used in the majority of synthetic motor oils.
Group IV — Polyalphaolefin (PAO) base stocks are chemically synthesized from ethylene. Used in some synthetic motor oils.
Group V — All other chemically synthesized base stocks, including all esters and polyalkylene glycol (PAG). Used in the minority of synthetic motor oils.
So you can have a cheaper synthetic oil or much more expensive and then the additives added before the price usually doesn't reflects what is not or hot.....
So find out which base is used in that synthetic oil if you can.
Personally, I wouldn't waste my money on such oils because you can't be sure what you are buying and believe there is all sort of trickery employed and indeed what is marketed as synthetic oil can be blended variety of group 2 and group 3 base especially in Australia.
"Oils ain't oils".....
I use oil for truck engines expected to last at least 40,000 km and I drain that thing after 5,000 km....
Good luck
Thanks for the info Rumcajs, and from all that another question arises. Which is the group we should be using????
I think it is a bit of a trade off as you don't know what you're getting. I'm thinking of using 5w40 as it's a bit thinner for the motor at startup and should last as well when the motor is warmed up as a 10w40 as they are both rated at 40.
I'm running Penrite 5/40, was told if motor not leaking to use it.
No problems whats so ever been using for 2 yrs now
So, I went to the auto store.
5L of 5w40 full synth, cheapest $52, dearest $62 approx. Need 2 x 5L for a change so = $104 cheapest
5L of 10w40 semi synth (as recommended by Nissan) $39. Need 2 x 5L for a change so = $78
Difference = $26.
Does the more expensive oil actually really do any more for my motor than the cheaper (and recommended) oil??
No one really factually knows, so my thinking was, why spend the extra money.
I've heard and read good and bads for full synth Vs semi synth, 5w40 Vs 10w40 Vs 15w40, but there is no hard and fast proof for one over the other. The only thing I've heard and read that's been repeated is "Get what the Manufacturer recommends".
So I based my decision on $$$$s, common sense & what the manufacturer recommends.
How does that song go? Somethging like " ...... shut up and drive.." think that's what I'll do ;-)
Well, the rating you see on the bottle is not indicative of thinner oil per see just it is able to flow at certain temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
If you really want to compare the oils ignore the '5W-40' rating to make your decision and instead look up the property of the oil especially its flash point (higher the better) and its resistance to flow in cSt @40°C (less then 95 is better) and @100°C (more then 15 is better) which is usually found in the products MDS info.
Then you can have a better understanding of quality of oil.
As for the group, it should be group 4 if you want the better quality oil but question remains do you really need it?
If you were to participate in Rally Raid or Dakar competition or running 24 Hour Le Mans race then yes perhaps but to do "daily drives routine" with nothing extra added standard oil is perfectly capable.
If I wanted to do Cape York and back home trip without changing oil I'd put better quality synthetic oil to last that distance I suppose otherwise I'm just wasting money while having a warm and fuzzy feeling about what exactly?
$52 AUD for 5 L of "synthetic" oil is not in the group 4 oils for sure. My guess would be that it is slightly better oil then the $29 for 5 L variety then again it depends a lot on who makes it too and how unscrupulous they really are when it comes to marketing and manufacturing....
Regards
well a lot of taxis get the cheapest semi synth put in them. how bad can it be ?
i still use delo but a 20L drum is around 100 bucks that does 2 services for me.
Thanks once again Rumcajs, more good info. I don't know who the reputable manufacturers are & who aren't and I suspect that it's possible to get 'average' oil from a reputable manufacturer and great oil from a new comer as I'm sure not every bottle is tested. I'm also guessing that oil can go off if it sits on a shelf for too long, is stored in the sunlight or next to a heater for months.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
It's all a bit of a crap shoot I reckon.
I was hoping 20L of oil can get four services out of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by garett
It might for you but i use nearly 10L a go... cos td42..Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Damn...TD42 uses ten litres?!Quote:
Originally Posted by garett
I've had no idea. I've never had a diesel vehicle. :)
How long the new oil last before you need next oil change?