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Hi Guys
2004 GU
Went over the hill this morning n picked up my car trailer 600Kgs .
Coming back I noticed temp up a bit so I backed off ,sat on 90 .I stopped n had a look noticed rad over flow was down a bit ,
topped it up took about 2.5 litres ,coming over hill had to stop n let it cool .
What could it be ? has twd heavier loads without a drama before .
Please Help :blowup:
dont want that to happen
What motorQuote:
Originally Posted by FNqGu04
ZD30 with egr dawes n 3 inch running 20 psi
I recently had a heating issue while going over a very long hill in my ZD30.
Coolant change with a radiator flush seems to have done the trick. I have been over the same hill twice since and no issues at all.
I had all sorts of nightmares about the possibilities and was relieved to find it was a simple solution.
Has been running fine ,the little hill I have is 2.4k to the top n very steep .I went into town this arvo with no trailer ,coming back temp got to mark
just before the top , but I was over so it cooled down OK .
All resivoirs are full n no leaks . Could it be the clutch fan not doing it's thing ? am only doing 60k/hr if that coming over the hill .
Don't really want to be stuck on the other side ,if it sh#ts itself .
I see no issue with 90°C especially after you have worked it harder. Mine will climb up to 95°C when in deep sand in low range and ambient around 35°C + easily.
I see temps on mine fluctuating during summer between 87°C-92°C and in winter between 85°C -89°C subject to loads and I don't tow trailers/campers either.
It has 84°C thermostat so what do you expect?
If you want to make sure then check if the radiator fins are not blocked with foreign matter (leaves, insects etc.) by putting a source of light behind it and look from outside if you can see the light. If there is something there to impede the airflow on to fan bimetallic spring of the viscous clutch it will not engage the fan when required for example.
If the engine/cooling fan is spinning really easily (no resistance from the viscous clutch) first thing when cold and there are tell tale signs of dust trail around its clutch housing then it is also possible that silicon fluid is leaking out and there is not enough oif it in there to act as a clutch.
Another trick is to engage A/C to see if the temps are going down/stabilize (A/C condenser electric fan kicks in forcing air through radiator as well)
BTW, how do you know the temps are going up, becuase factory gauge will not move until about 100°C which is a deliberate design as to not freak out the consumers when watching temp gauge needle moving up when under heavier load.
Regards
Hi Rumcajs
Just read your post ,went out n checked the fan ,couldn't really see any dust or oil on the hub .
There is only a bit of resistance to turning the blades . Could that be the problem ?
Went over the hill yesterday arvo no trailer ,got hotter than normal, temp gauge doesn't move unless really working hard .
Thanks
Craig
The "reasonable" resistance is felt usually only when engine is cold, but another test I suppose is when you start the engine and then stop it after a minute or so and if the fan keeps spining after the engine is off for a bit of time then the fan clutch has no silicon fluid in it anymore, if it stops right away then all is good.
The fan resistance test is just a feel, if it spins really easily then you have trouble.
However as I mentioned it before the no "hot air flow" over the clutch bimetalic spring will cause it to not engage the fan. That's why you have check for obstruction in the radiator.
You can actually hear the fan roaring when it engaged as well.
I'm more concerned about the 2.5 L of fluid you've put in.
This needs to be put in the overall view, what is the ambient temp, engine load and air flow through radiator.
If you are relying on the factory temp gauge only then you are in trouble too. I suggest or hope that you have access to ECU Talk software and cable as a minimum and I fully recommend the ECU Talk LCD interface. That thing has already paid for itself in my case so many times it is not even funny...
Do check the radiator for the external blockage first using a source of light, you will require an assistance and or would need to remove the radiator shroud if you can't stick your hand in there.
Regards
Quote:
Originally Posted by FNqGu04
I'm begining to think there is not enough air flow through the Rad ,any tips on cleaning it.
There are quite a few insects flying around when I'm driving ,prob just built up enough to cause a drama .
Next item on the wish list is a temp gauge , get a proper temp
Well, the best way is to remove radiator and then pressure clean it backwards, just make make sure the nozzle is sufficient distance and at right angle to the unit otherwise the damage may occur.Quote:
Originally Posted by FNqGu04
Also invest in some bug screen attachment on the front grille.....
Regards
OK thanks Rumcajs
Would it be more the aircon thing as it sits in front of the Rad .
What ever I do it's going to be a PITA
Well it could be but in any case to get to A/C (Air Conditioning condenser) it is easier to remove radiator because you do need to back wash it. You'll be surprised how much stuff get trapped in the radiator even though you have all that stuff in front of it ( A/C condenser, PS cooler, etc.
That's why I'd rather make sure it is externally blocked by using a torch/source of light from behind and then have a assistant to look. You can see it shining through easily if the fins aren't blocked. As you move the light around your assistant should be able to see that movement from the front even through the condenser or any coolers you have there, indeed doing in the darker place is prefered.
I went to see on mine if it can be done and yes you can shove the light in there from bottom of the fan shroud quite easily. I left my LED workshop light inside the shroud, looked from the front and I can see the light, yay.
Its up to you really, if there is a lot of debris between the radiator and the condenser then go for it and remove the radiator if you suspect that.
Normally cooling systems problems like overheating are a guess work or process of elimination, start with the easiest first IMHO.
Regards
You may find the bottom section of your radiator is clogged with dust andQuote:
Originally Posted by FNqGu04
sludge from everyday driving let alone off roading. My radiator was U/S at 200K
Just on a side note .
Is it possible to replace the fluid in the fan hub on my trol or do I have to
buy a new one ?
09/04 zd30ddti
I seem to recall that someone has done it by using Yotas spare parts viscous coupling fluid, apparently 2 bottles I just can't remember the thread but because the fan hub and coolant pump are not separable you'll have remove it.Quote:
Originally Posted by FNqGu04
Its a messy job too.
Regards
@mudskiQuote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
He has been doing it past few months testing the best amount of fluid to use for best results.
Sent from S5
Just gets better n better
I'll give the rad a good flush first .
Are they hard to remove ? It's not like I've never done something like this B4,
it's just it all has to go back the right way
Hardest thing is to put coolant back in without causing an air lock as that will come back at with the vengeance. Of you are taking out then send it off to the radiator place and have it tested there for internal blockage as well. When was the last time you have changed coolant in it?Quote:
Originally Posted by FNqGu04
Regards
Regards
If you want to monitor and log ECU, I have a 2002 Elgrand with ZD30 (non CRD ) so has OBD2 plug but Consult protocol. Bought a bluetooth consult scanner with OBD adapter from buyobd http://www.buyobd.com/index.php?main...&products_id=2
Cost about $65 and took about a week to arrive. I use NDS1 on my 8 inch tablet which I have mounted above the dash. Run it it dash mode (when not using google maps) and display about 12 items continuously. Or switch to data mode and record a log to look back on later.
Sent from my SM-T355Y using Tapatalk
I've got the same but the problem I've found is because the plug hangs out a long way I can't leave it in as otherwise I hit it with my legQuote:
Originally Posted by Turtle_au
I have an auto and it would hang infront of brake pedel so I got some velcro patches and it now sits under dash with just enough slack to unplug when I need to reset. Added bonus is it also stops the small adater plug from coming out.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucus30
Sent from my SM-T355Y using Tapatalk
As in you moved your obd port ? I might have to do the same in the caseQuote:
Originally Posted by Turtle_au
Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
Yep.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Started at 1 1/2 bottles. Did FA. Then went to 2 1/2, the fan was fully locked the entire time. But my temps were 15c lower. I couldn't handle the power loss, and noise, I went 2 bottles. Better than 1 1/2 but still could be better i thought. So out it all came again and now I have 2 1/4 bottles in the hub.
I have found this to be pretty much the sweet spot for my setup. The temps still move a lot, but it drops so much quicker now. After doing 1700ks with a camper in tow for most of it, my temps never got over 100c, where as last time I did the same trip, I was seeing 115c on the odd occasion.
I do however have a copper rad from UFI and the G35 infinity fan on it too. I am now thinking of putting the OEM rad back in just to see if theres any difference.