Tacho freaking out then won't idle

Hi have a 2006 diesel wagon only a week old, drove great for first 150 k's road and fire trails. Tried out all the interior buttons only thing I had done differently prior to problem is turn on the pre heat button and fill coolant tank, now5 minutes after driving the tacho starts fluctuating past the red zone then car wont idle and stalls, takes a few go's to start it then engine light stays on and back to normal. Have looked through some threads on here and have taken battery off for 30 mins and emptied fuel filter. Any other suggestions welcomed before I take it to mechanic for a fleecing.

Thanks Pj

If you wanna avoid getting fleeced, swindled or screwed by a mechanic, it might be a good idea to do bit more reading here, googling & go through relevant sections in the repair manual to attempt a DIY troubleshoot.

Thanks Dom
So far after reset and drain haven't had the problem come back, fingers crossed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pj-14

Thanks Dom
So far after reset and drain haven't had the problem come back, fingers crossed.

---

I'm guessing some sensor malfunction might have caused it as well.
Locate all the engine related sensors and give them a clean with a tooth brush & some carby cleaner.
Jumping tacho indicates an electrical problem.
If the problem comes back, locate the wire connectors that go to the IP/sensors etc and open them up and clean them with a bit
of carby cleaner+tooth brush and plug them back in.
I've had absolutely frustrating experience s with electrical wires broken inside while from outside it looks perfect.
Check this thread of mine to get an idea on how certain electrical gremlins can drive you nuts.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...-Weird-problem

Looks like like I have some more work to do tomorrow thx dom

Well problem came back but didn't start until driving for 10 minutes, I'm guessing the idle problem is limp mode now to just work out the bouncing tachometer. I went prodding and poking around the engine bay pushing hoses and connectors to make sure all were on properly and the only one that seemed not on fully was the turbo actuator but not sure if this would cause tach bouncing. More reading and scrolling, not such a bad thing around these forums only when I get side tracked lol.

Supercheap (I believe) charge a small bit to connect an on board diagnosis tool so you can get any fault codes.

Was told by local 4wd shop that if the engine light doesn't flash when I first start the car then it hasn't logged the fault code, took the beast there today hoping it would be bouncing but no freaky tacho today, fingers crossed it's fixed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pj-14

Was told by local 4wd shop that if the engine light doesn't flash when I first start the car then it hasn't logged the fault code, took the beast there today hoping it would be bouncing but no freaky tacho today, fingers crossed it's fixed.

---

It must be electrical, whether it's a dodgy wire/connections somewhere or a dodgy sensor/component.

Well there is a rattle under the dash that's hitting the steering column might check that out in case it's a loose connection.

Sounds like the crank angle sensor is playing up when it gets hot. This will also affect the tacho.

Was there any fault codes?

When it plays up you can try pouring cold water over the crank angel sensor (front of the engine just above crankshaft pulley) and see if that helps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Yendor

Sounds like the crank angle sensor is playing up when it gets hot. This will also affect the tacho.

Was there any fault codes?

When it plays up you can try pouring cold water over the crank angel sensor (front of the engine just above crankshaft pulley) and see if that helps.

---

Now you're talking! Where have you been? :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Yendor

Sounds like the crank angle sensor is playing up when it gets hot. This will also affect the tacho.

Was there any fault codes?.

---

Was told if engine light doesn't keep flashing after starting that it did not keep the code, as i'm a newbie I have no idea if this is true and only had the car for 2 weeks now so haven't added any additions like scan gauge or modified it as yet.

On a different note, what mods should I get done first? probably doing up to med - cruising to start of with. Winch, Lockers, lift or bigger tyres? bank balance wont accommodate all at once.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pj-14

On a different note, what mods should I get done first? probably doing up to med - cruising to start of with. Winch, Lockers, lift or bigger tyres? bank balance wont accommodate all at once.

---

IMHO not much point in putting larger tyres without lift - they may catch on body . The idea is to lift so that the tyre s can move more and larger ones can fit. (thats pretty basic,there is more to it than that). Winch - shouldn't need that too often, Lockers - really want the biggers tyres and lift before putting lockers in. So lift first, possibly the best for the wallet and can improve your ingress and egress angles without any other mods. The others can follow as you get the finances.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pj-14

Was told if engine light doesn't keep flashing after starting that it did not keep the code, as i'm a newbie I have no idea if this is true and only had the car for 2 weeks now so haven't added any additions like scan gauge or modified it as yet.

---

Not true. It will still be logged as a history code.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Yendor

Not true. It will still be logged as a history code.

---

Well that might help me with my 4.2 Diesel . my Tacho plays up and have not been able to find the problem .

Replaced crank sensor as it seemed to be leaking some oil & had erratic movement as seems to be the issue here .
tacho still has the problem, not all the time, you just see it jump upwards occasionally no better no worse than before hand

Putt it down to some dust in the tacho mechanism.
I have also seen this in my R32GTR.
Was able to semi pull GTR tacho apart clean with maff cleaner , issue half as bad/often.

Note --Carby clean can have a dry lube additive, not recommend on a sensor as you will coat it,
Maf cleaner might be a better idea.

But thread vehicle is much newer,more electronics than my TD which has no computer at all, GTR had 4 computers and same issue, but never tried to shut down or throw a code.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tip12345

Well that might help me with my 4.2 Diesel . my Tacho plays up and have not been able to find the problem .

---

The 4.2TD are different. What year model is it?. Is yours the TDI?

Mine is A 2005 td inter-cooled .. I have been looking for a Description of the injection system . It has one injector with A wire on it ! the Tacho is intermittent thanks to all

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tip12345

Mine is A 2005 td inter-cooled .. I have been looking for a Description of the injection system . It has one injector with A wire on it ! the Tacho is intermittent thanks to all

---

With your vehicle start by swapping the ECU relay. It's located above the fusebox inside the vehicle. You will need to remove the plastic trim above the pedals to see it.

The ECU relay is the top relay. Just swap it for now with the middle relay (interior fan).

Also check and clean the main ECU earths. They are connected to the engine inlet manifold about half way down the engine on the RHS.

The very top one in the middle . ? Have been mucking around and now have a light for the aux tank on and switch for the aux tank does not work . It's driving me mad.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tip12345

The very top one in the middle . ? Have been mucking around and now have a light for the aux tank on and switch for the aux tank does not work . It's driving me mad.

---

The ECU relay is the top relay. If your vehicle is a wagon it will more then likely be on the LHS.

The middle relay is for the interior fan. Just swap these two relays over.

Disconnect your batteries for half an hour should reset the sub tank module.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tip12345

The very top one in the middle . ? Have been mucking around and now have a light for the aux tank on and switch for the aux tank does not work . It's driving me mad.

---

Have you inspected the wiring for any rubbing or breakages?

Yes have had a look but wires look good . It is a very tidy Ute has not been touched very clean and tidy that's why I bought it. Stock as a rock

I have only really seen these play up when the wiring has been damaged. The rpm sensor is a 3 wire sensor with shielding so if has rubbed anywhere interference can play its part. Or someone has put some pressure on the ecu plug possibly running extra wires through the cab. I would be trying yendors suggestion first though.

Thanks where is the sensor located . When I know I can have another look. This Ute is new to me still finding my way around it ..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tip12345

Thanks where is the sensor located . When I know I can have another look. This Ute is new to me still finding my way around it ..

---

well is is improving but .... This morning without the plastic around the fuse box. I noticed a ticking like a relay opening and shutting. it stopped and the Tacho started working .
Not sure which relay it was .

well its still not 100 % when the tacho does not work it does not run properly . It has a three wire sensor . Is there a way to test the sensor . I have been looking for a description of how the system works but cant find anything useful ....
hope every one has had a bit of a break .. back at work here flat out .