Hi Guys and girls,
Mate is looking at buying a 3ltr Patrol, and asked if and when did they fix the 3ltr grenading issue?
I don't ever recall reading anything about it ever been fixed by Nissan.
Cheers
Toddie
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Hi Guys and girls,
Mate is looking at buying a 3ltr Patrol, and asked if and when did they fix the 3ltr grenading issue?
I don't ever recall reading anything about it ever been fixed by Nissan.
Cheers
Toddie
08 and beyond with the crd.
Post 04 in the di they had sorted some of the issues.
I thought it was mid 07
Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs
Did they actually fix the issue
Q. What to look out for when buying a 3 Litre motor?
A. Don't buy one with a Nissan badge on the grille!
The main issue with the ZD30's is the weakish pistons. Rest of the motors are quite strong and the factory turbo can handle a lot of boost (30+PSI).
The pistons would either blow through (hole in centre) or shatter usually resulting a leg-out-of-bed situation. The cause for it was/is where EGT's are too high and/or people are revving the shit out of them. I keep seeing people talking about shifting at 4 grand.... No wonder things go sideways fast. People don't know how to listen and feel a motor and when you have well passed the torque sweet spots so keep revving with usually high EGT's because of no NADS or poorly fitted partial NADS. Boom Boom in pants coming.
Yes, the earlier (2003 and prior) were the more prone but there are still plenty of CRD's that still pop and when you look at the shear numbers of these motors out there and the zealots scared of them and do all the fear-mongering, of course they get a bad name.
So, the question: What to look out for when buying a 3ltr motor wise?
- Look for all the usual signs, oil leaks, signs of recent engine or under-body wash that could be hiding bigger issues.
- Look at intercooler, factory turds are press-sealed and leak eventually leaving an oil stain patch.
- Look at the oil on the dipstick for colour and smell it. Presence of fuel is not good. A lot of soot by 5000 means either totally none-NADS and EGR still open and fouling the sucker.
- Check the log books for servicing and ask what oils have been used.
- Start it cold, listen to how it starts. A brisk spin-over and quick fire means she is feeling perky. Look at smoke out the pipe, a small puff of white smoke is normal but smell it, it should be diesel and not oil.
- Listen for any hunting on the revs at idle when cold and warm, if it hunts then sensor or pump issues maybe present. If it just has lumpy idle, an injector maybe sad.
- Drive it, use you ears, hands and most of all, your arse and feel how it runs and drives.
- Any signs of mods, check them all very carefully as the DIY factor usually costs money down the track.
Or just tell him to buy a 4.2....
some thing I keep asking
and never get an answer is.................
HOW many 3.0L were released in Australia
and
just HOW MANY of the 3.0L went to their maker.............
no-one wants to answer
I have 3 mates with a 2001, a 2004, and a 2009
all 3 are over 500K
not one of them has busted anything (except the front wheel bearing) - dont even have NADs on them
the way my mates flog them (like thy stole them) makes me think that the VAST MAJORITY of the 3.0L were ok..............
My 2006 zd30 has had issues with clutch (two part flywheel now replaced with a solid unit) and the dreaded water leak behind the front engine covers. Both expensive and plenty of comments that these are common (not sure what "common" means). Replaced starter at 120,000 km.
Look for water leaks behind alternator--that is a BAD sign.
We have USED our truck--Simpson last year--and towed our heavy camper without issues.
I'd say many grenades are due to poor treatment or neglecting to install NADS.
Couple of years ago on our trip we saw a heap of grey nomads driving Patrols and towing big vans who were totally oblivious to any issues with them. Many had over 300k and a few with 500k. One thing that was common was they always had them serviced on time and they all were happy chappys...lol
My ZD30 is a 2001 model and the only bother I`ve had was the dual mass fly wheel, the EGR Stepper Motor I think it`s called, Maf Sensor needing to be replaced, front wheel bearings needed to be replaced, primer pump replacement and the over flow nozzle on the top plastic radiator tank breaking off. Other wise, every thing goes okay. I have a brother who has a 2000 ZD30 go bung on him and he had all ways serviced it on time, but no worries after the rebuild.
Bigcol, no one outside of Nissan knows the answer. And they ain't telling.
Hypothetically lets say that 10% of ZD30 DI's drop the pin. That's way too much and would be over the industry norm for failures and would explain all the posts and stories which you find on line. Especially since one story can be posted several times on different forums. However it would also mean that 90% are still going strong 10+ years after being made. Most without NADS as you have pointed out.
I too would love to know the numbers.
Don't you mean Bullshit?
I had no choice..
Good things can't last forever..
It was Either a zd30 or a Prado...
But in all seriousness I have no issue with zd30..
Every manufacturer has issues.. Nissan was years ahead of the market with the 4 pot in a full size forby. .
Unfortunately first round didn't work..
But they got better. .
Anyway.. enough dribble..
Fark me! I won't comment here or I'll get banned !!!!
….................... On the move
Nah... never happen, Clunk is still here for starters.
Best GU Patrol variant I have driven - TB48
Best GU Patrol variant I have owned - ZD30 CRD
Most fun GU Patrol homogenised variant I can afford - Chevy 6.5
IMHO, the thing to look for on the ZD30 is the same as any Diesel engine pretty much, service history.
They will all have leaking factory intercoolers
They will usually have that pesky weep from that bung on the block low, front, RHS
NADS means SFA, if they are gunna blow they will blow BUT I agree NADS will change the way they drive.
A series 1 or 2, statistics or lack of aside, definitely have/had an issue which Nissan 'secretly' rectified
The early CRD's have the oil pump bolt torque issue
The dual mass flywheel is a total POS idea
None of which means I wouldn't buy one at the appropriate price.
Once a vehicle is past 10 to 12 years old I tend to look less at the engine etc as the 'value' is in the whole package and often a shopping trolley is better buying than an offroad toy that has been knocked about a bit