Ok you lads with the big winches
whats best for in cab rocker switches
2seperate switches for in/out
or just one for in/out with an isolator
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Ok you lads with the big winches
whats best for in cab rocker switches
2seperate switches for in/out
or just one for in/out with an isolator
I can't really say that one way is better than the other, but I have got one isolating switch, and one in/out switch and it works very well.
Im the same with Winnie yet to wire mine in, but yes to an in cab winch isolating switch.
way too many low lifes that are over eager to cut any 4x4 in half,
Ive seen it done [end result] when the 4x4 show was at Jeffs Shed, grown men do cry sadly
Phones got a mind of its own today.
This is another way to isolate, 175amp Anderson plugs.
Works fine on Warn winch.
Also no live cables out front in case of an accident.
what a great idea macca. I might have to steal your idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by macca
175aw is well short of what a 9000 pound winch can draw..
My 11xp can draw up to 500A.
But personally I'd fit an isolator switch out of the way.. in the gq it was next to seeing column.
The gu is down in the dash.
And fit the in / out in a handy location like center console..
The way I see it is you want to be able to sit back in your chair and push the in / out button with ease..
Your right, and it has worked like this for 5 years in this vehicle and was in the previous one as well. Had a long extremely hard pull up a greasy hill, 3 or 4 times we ran the rope out and recovered another vehicle as well. The connection didn't get warm let alone hot. So I'm happy to keep it as it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
For your winch power switch it could just be a toggle switch discreetly placed out of view, but
Once inside the cabin I don't think it really matters if hidden or not. Plus those winch in/out
switches are momentary on only for spooling in and out, take your finger off it and it will stop.
I guess the 175 is a safety rating..Quote:
Originally Posted by macca
So it is probably good for 500A..
How big is the wire going to it then? At 500A wouldnt want anything less than the fattest welding cable you can get.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
50mm is good for 500A.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
30mm is a standard 400A earth lead..
50mm is definitely not good for 500A manQuote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
How much you you say it's good for??Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Well first time ever I have found dc ratings on Google. . Usually come up dead ends..Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
So 50mm is good for 175A continous
Yep. At a minimum maybe 95mm2. 300mm2 is huge.
You can't really say that a cable is okay for a particular current, it depends on a lot of things.
I have sold 50mm cable that ran nothing but a 10A GPO.
Anyway, the cable supplied by the winch manufacturer will always be the bare minimum.
I would have cursed the engineer for that shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
On powerlines we use 95mm2 as bare minium for 200A circuits, for wiring up transformers secondary voltage. Anything up to 185mm2 feeding 400A circuits. DC is probably different. And I'm sure there is also different grades of copper is there not.
Isolator switch to the switching side of the solenoid. I ran single In and out switches in the GQ but have just changed to a dingle in/out switch.
Isolator switch is not handy. Over near the clock. The in/out is comfortably placed next to the steering column so if shit gets real my hand is close to the steering wheel.
Remember you are talking about Peak non continuos loads when spiking to 400amps. Warn supply smaller than 35mmsq on their new winches and see those kind of amps.
I am fitting an isolating kill switch with 600amp continuous rating to kill the winch and battery supply in case of fire or accident. The switch is going to be mounted to the back of the console reachable from my seat. Standard minimum requirements for CCDA race car application.
Dc is different mate. Usually the lower the voltage the higher the current needs to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Underground supply to a shed with a small pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
From memory it was about 800m
Thats with everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Yeah, with a subboard is alright.... It's when you're expected to terminate it into the gpo....... I have been thereQuote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Ah, no, that was not expected lmao
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...016/05/309.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...016/05/310.jpg
Not the best Piccies sorry. But I have my high mount hard wired in. The solenoid is a full waterproof jobbie, currently mounted behind the bullbar. (Plans to move it somewhere more out of the elements.
I have the two switches, mostly in case I accidentally bump it while going for the reversing lights.
Cheers.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...016/05/314.jpg These are mine. In/out toggle with isolator switch next to it. Left hand side of steering wheel.
Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk
That makes sense then. I was about to call BS! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
This is something i need to do. But the wired hand controller on mine has four wires in it. All others ive seen have three.
Unless its different in the winch control box....
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We'll open mine over the w/end and have a look seeQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Hey roofy, mines got a in out rocker carling type and isolator (carling) which i really like, nice and easy to use and they look good. Also have the buttons on the front of the bar which are awsome, almost can't live without them!
Carefull Rossco you'll get me all excited knowing that you have themQuote:
Originally Posted by Rossco