A/T check light on, car won't start

Took the beast to bunyip today and she performed extremely well until my confidence kicked in an attempted a big bog hole. Water coming in the front door etc. Until I got snatched out. After many attempts to get out, once I was out the a/T check light came on and then it seem to have gone into limp mode. I switched the car off hoping to reset the computer. Bad mistake. Car would not start, after multiple attempts to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery it finally kicked over but was still in limp mode. I drove it home to Cranbourne North and watched the temp on the transfer n seemed to stay at a reasonable temp. The car seemed fine to drive home accept that it was in limp mode. After getting it home I gave it a quick tub so it's easier to work on and then sprayed every electrical point with crc. I also disconnected the battery for over an hour but still won't start. Turn ignition and all lights come on and you can here the power running. The a/T check light still comes on. Could this b a computer fault, fuse or automatic position switch. The car has a built auto in it with a f250 super heavy duty transfer cooler. Please help as this seems like something pretty simple and the car seems to run fine when it's running

I would try disconnecting the battery for a few hours and also letting it dry out preferably overnight. Then give it a try. If still the same I think you will have to get the codes read? Not much help sorry.

Yeah gonna disconnect it over night and hopefully the crc helps drying out the terminals

When it did start, was that by the key or did you hot wire the starter motor?

With the ignition switched on. Does the reverse light still work?

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Originally Posted by Yendor

When it did start, was that by the key or did you hot wire the starter motor?

With the ignition switched on. Does the reverse light still work?

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It started with the key, no hotwiring the starter motor.
No the light does not work

Check the fuses in the fuse box inside the vehicle. There should be one marked as AT control or something similar. I think it's either fuse 12 or fuse 24 but check all of them.

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Originally Posted by Yendor

Check the fuses in the fuse box inside the vehicle. There should be one marked as AT control or something similar. I think it's either fuse 12 or fuse 24 but check all of them.

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The a/T control fuse is ok

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Originally Posted by Muskee84

The a/T control fuse is ok

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Did check that fuse, will have to check the rest tomorrow. Would b great if it started so I could run it to the mechanics tomorrow

How deep did the water get inside the vehicle?. The auto computer is mounted in the LHS kick panel. Did this get wet?

I would check the wiring under the vehicle that runs to the auto, just incase it was damaged by a stick of something when you were in the bog hole.

Have you tried starting it in neutral or even while moving the T-bar through the gears?

I will have to have a look and remove the kick panel, check all the wiring underneath. Seem to be fine. Sprayed it all with crc. Have tried through all the gears n still won't crank. The water came into lhs and came up high enough to go into the speaker but that's as high is it wen

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Originally Posted by Yendor

How deep did the water get inside the vehicle?. The auto computer is mounted in the LHS kick panel. Did this get wet?

I would check the wiring under the vehicle that runs to the auto, just incase it was damaged by a stick of something when you were in the bog hole.

Have you tried starting it in neutral or even while moving the T-bar through the gears?

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Removed the computer and then removed the cover on the computer. Water and mud has gotten into the computer. Is this a bin job or should I crc it n dry it out or just get a new one

I would try cleaning it first. Get some electrical contact cleaning and give it a good hit with that, then let it dry fully before trying it in the vehicle.

Removed the auto transmission computer, cleaned it( had mud on it and was wet.caked it in electrical contact cleaner. Let it dry for halfa and then plugged it back in. Boom she roared to life. Went around the block and she was still in limp mode. Parked It in the drive way and left it running. Then by itself the d on the dash indication came up and she was no longer in limp mode. A/T check light disappeared too. Thanks for your help Yendor. Nissan wanted $2300 for a new one so thank God. Is there anyway I can silicone the unit so it doesn't happen in the future or move it to another higher position

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Originally Posted by Muskee84

. Thanks for your help Yendor. Nissan wanted $2300 for a new one so thank God.

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Far out! Rekon youve dodged a bullet ay

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Originally Posted by Muskee84

Removed the auto transmission computer, cleaned it( had mud on it and was wet.caked it in electrical contact cleaner. Let it dry for halfa and then plugged it back in. Boom she roared to life. Went around the block and she was still in limp mode. Parked It in the drive way and left it running. Then by itself the d on the dash indication came up and she was no longer in limp mode. A/T check light disappeared too. Thanks for your help Yendor. Nissan wanted $2300 for a new one so thank God. Is there anyway I can silicone the unit so it doesn't happen in the future or move it to another higher position

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Very good idea. Seal it with water resistant/oil resistant silicon, so you won't have to worry about it happening again.

I have heard of people moving them higher but haven't seen any pics. I thought about it myself but haven't got there yet

>>>tappin from tassie

Under the dash, passenger side

Yeah basically as high as the wires will reach. Have you done it clunk?

>>>tappin from tassie

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Originally Posted by taslucas

Yeah basically as high as the wires will reach. Have you done it clunk?

>>>tappin from tassie

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Nope don't have clunker any more, but would if I kept it....

Im positive I saw some pics of someone who did it but for the life of me can't find them now