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Hi All,
I am in the process of replacing the standard exhaust with a 3" inch system. I am trying to remove the Turbo/Dump Pipe shroud to get to the bolts, but the heater hoses are in the way.
Has anyone removed the shroud in-situ before? If so how did you do it? Or do I have to remove the heater hoses (not keen on this as I don't really want to drop the coolant)?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers Woody
With great difficulty..
Just done mine a few weeks ago..
I removed all of the intake pipes to and from turbo, second battery and my catch can which is mounted next to the abs unit..
I rolled the Sheila towards the wheel arch enough to clear the turbo etc and the yanked it out... lol
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Here is the magic hint: it wont come out in its original shape! :icon_bonk:
Bend it, beat it, flog it and caress it. be careful though, the edges are bloody sharp.
Mine did..
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Thanks All,
Got it sorted in the end plus a broken turbo stud (F*%$#g think was a B*&ch to remove). Had to remove the heater hoses and take the cover completely out to drill and extract the stud.
Cheers for the info.
Woody
Good job Woody .. definitely not a job for the faint hearted, or anyone that doesn't like the sight of blood ....
When I did mine, i trimmed a couple of the edges of the heat shield before I put it back in, to make it easier for next time.
LOL, you put it back... ?Quote:
Originally Posted by happygu
Certainly did Benji,Quote:
Originally Posted by LostBenji
It is hot enough under the bonnet with it on, let alone without it ..... My thinking is that heat kills batteries and rubber hoses, so keeping the heat away from the second battery and the water hoses is a massive consideration for me.
You never know, it may stop me trying to touch something when i shouldn't too ...... oooohhh shiny red hot Turbo ... must touch, must touch ..... oooohhh .... I am sure I won't get burnt .....
For the small amount of area that it covers, it hasn't made much difference. There is plenty of cooling air coming from the engine fan to keep things OK for me. Besides, I have the EGT probe sitting in the way now plus the much bigger dump-pipe.
That reminds me, need to wrap it at some stage.
I'm going a turbo Bennie and wrap.
But have re fitted shield for the intrum to protect hoses etc around it from direct heat damage.
I simply cut out enough to clear the dump pipe. So it still covers the rear of the manifold
Well there ya go, I forgot about getting a beanie instead. eBay time.
Update: Ordered.
T2 or t3 size??Quote:
Originally Posted by LostBenji
I'm yet to measure the wheel so unsure..
Just grabbed a generic.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252226620592
The Turbine snail section is fairly large so should be safe with the one above. Not a huge price either way.
Also grabbed a few roles of wrap to do the dump and section under the passenger side to the muffler.
Exactly what I'm doing tooQuote:
Originally Posted by LostBenji
LOL, what colour?
Mines black on the bootie, red on the tape.
Also grabbed some purposed made clamps for the ends.
Black and black..
Purpose made clamps??
You mean the stainless steel ties?
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Any pictures Guys, this is starting to sound artistic!
Yet to order mine.. after this weekend will be a bit further off..Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveyboyjunior
i emailed a couple of suppliers ( one in toowoomba and one in brisbane ) on thursday to see if they had a beanie to fit the zd turbo but both said they did not have one that would fit because of the vnt actuator arm . i'd prefer to put a beanie on instead of the heat sheild . it will be interesting to see how you go fitting the beanie lostbenji . there's also a bolt hole lug that sticks out the side of the turbo .
@threedogs has one fitted..
Doesn't seem to worry his, but yes I have had the same thought..
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321421625867
Stainless Zip Ties don't secure very tightly. These can be pulled tight and folded over to positively lock.
Not too worried, I have a boost actuator here to put on soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by nipagu7
Attachment 66967
I've heard good and bad about them.Quote:
Originally Posted by LostBenji
I was keen to swap aswell
No reason to have too many issues. Quality of the actuator is good, uses a piston rather than a diaphragm and the machining is good as well.
P.S Sorry for thread hijack. :offtopic:
Will start another soon.
I have read they do need tuning still from shop to get arm length right..Quote:
Originally Posted by LostBenji
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Here you go the beanie size is in some of the first few posts.
Only cost $40 or so fits very snug. I highly recommend especially
if you have an Aux battery fitted.
As for the dump pipe I'd be getting it jet coated for max thermal result.
Keep the heat in the pipe and not transferring heat to other motor components.
Also found that gold tape cheap and effective
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...=beanie+fitted
so what is this boost actuator . does it work off boost pressure instead of vaccum ?
Spot on..Quote:
Originally Posted by nipagu7
Basically acts like a regular actuator at a set boost level. No need for vacume..
About $200 from memory..
So for the cost of a dawes / tillix valve and needle valve your most the way to this actuator..
Yep, rob that comes with it is clear not for our ZD30's with VNT's. Waste-gates would be different story.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
Making my own new rod and will do my own R&D to find best length and spring pressure.
$145.00 delivered.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
Really. Where from. Pretty sure I saw their site showed $200Quote:
Originally Posted by LostBenji
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...359#post678359
Moved to fresh thread.
I have read the many posts about the heat shield, after many hours of stripping my knuckles and the bolts, cursing and throwing tools and near divorce with the missus.... I bit the bullet and got the angle grinder out! loosened it enough to get access and chopped it, came out a treat.
The issue I have now is the one last nut on the turbo stud in the dump pipe, closest to the engine block. I have it part loosened halfway down the bolt, but cannot get it any further now. I would welcome any suggestions?!
i dont get the issue with the heat shield ive done it many times only take 2 mins to remove once the 4-5 bolts are removed.
im guessing the thread is stuffed for the nut to be hung up there?
can you try adding another nut to the stud and tighten the two together and then remove the stud?
wd40 could be your friend..
worst come to worst you could break the stud and remove the dump pipe then the next problem of taking out the stud, if its go some sticking out vice grips might get a hold on it to be removed.
just some ideas