desired performance mods for zd30 crd

Gday fellas,

Purchased my first 4x4 ute the other week (2007 zd30 crd)

Been reading about the nads mods to ensure
The motor does not go BOOM! Yes I understand
Most will say it's not needed for the crd but for my security
I proceeded and purchased what was needed to ensure it won't happen.
All yet to be installed hopefully be done before next weekend

Now, my question is performance wise what would be the best performance mods to get the best
Out of this thing.
The reason I'm asking is before I setup the egt gauge would it be sensible to upgrade exhaust and what
Would be the best to suit crd some say 3inch some say no

But all in all what's the best mods?

Yes sorry for asking a frequent question was just hoping if it could be all summed up under one post

No the NADs is not needed for the CRD. The dawes will give you a smoother boost curve and the needle valve will allow you to control the spool up rate of the turbo. At all. But its needed if you want any performance gains. Thats for sure. Bigger pipe. Some say 2 3/4inch, some say 3inch. I personally think 3inch. Performance chip, egr blocked. Modified intake pipe, tricked maf housing to allow higher boost levels.

Thank you very much mate
Much appreciated ����

With the exhaust would there be a specific one you would recommend

Ok there is heaps of info and mudski has pretty much covered most of it..
2.75" if you not doing nads so it retains some back pressure and doesn't throw codes..
But you doing the lot so 3"..
There are heaps of systems..
Personally I'm going a 3" cat less with a main muffler as its our main car..
Bigger maf housing and silicone intake pipe work will assist with the intake but in reality the stock air box is poor..
If your really chasing big number that'll be on the to do list but not critical for small gains..

Most recommend upping boost to 18-20 psi. They do really perform well.. and this is where your larger maf housing helps..
Upping the boost draws more air. The ecu doesn't like that.. so..
You need to either up the pipe diameter to slow the flow or you can get a maf voltage regulator..

Now there is a big debate about chips v's remap of late..
A chip is simple and some now you can select different modes.
A remap tune you can set to how you like it, and they can change things like maf values and even turn off the egr function..
So a remap tune can save you money on the mods really..

In reality every mod you do takes life off the car.. So personally I'm not going to far with mine..
But a bloke in QLD has spent $27,000 on the engine just to shut his td42 turbo mates up lol...
30 psi and nitrogen cooled intercooler..

Keep it stock or just a 2.75 Beaudesert exhaust and enjoy years of performance :)





….................... On the move

X 2 on the Beaudesert exhaust, a chip and NADS will give great results
You'll need to decide if a chip or re-map is what your after.
One member here was very happy with the results of the remap lol.

What will you be using the ute for???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by biggqwesty

But a bloke in QLD has spent $27,000 on the engine just to shut his td42 turbo mates up lol...
30 psi and nitrogen cooled intercooler..

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What a fool he is. Lol
Not bagging the motor. But really? A person would throw more than what i put into my TD conversion just to shut his mates up.
Getting high boost isnt hard too. The ZD30 likes the high boost. Anything over 25psi using the OEM turbo is asking for trouble though. The turbine shaft is the weak, link in theses turbos and ive seen one and heard a few of these snap the shaft from running over 25psi boost.
I forgot about the remapping you can do to the CRD's.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by biggqwesty

Ok there is heaps of info and mudski has pretty much covered most of it..
2.75" if you not doing nads so it retains some back pressure and doesn't throw codes..
But you doing the lot so 3"..
There are heaps of systems..
Personally I'm going a 3" cat less with a main muffler as its our main car..
Bigger maf housing and silicone intake pipe work will assist with the intake but in reality the stock air box is poor..
If your really chasing big number that'll be on the to do list but not critical for small gains..

Most recommend upping boost to 18-20 psi. They do really perform well.. and this is where your larger maf housing helps..
Upping the boost draws more air. The ecu doesn't like that.. so..
You need to either up the pipe diameter to slow the flow or you can get a maf voltage regulator..

Now there is a big debate about chips v's remap of late..
A chip is simple and some now you can select different modes.
A remap tune you can set to how you like it, and they can change things like maf values and even turn off the egr function..
So a remap tune can save you money on the mods really..

In reality every mod you do takes life off the car.. So personally I'm not going to far with mine..
But a bloke in QLD has spent $27,000 on the engine just to shut his td42 turbo mates up lol...
30 psi and nitrogen cooled intercooler..

---

Thank you very much mate for the advice and info
Same goes to whom have replied 👍🏻
Top bunch of blokes

What will you be using the ute for???[/QUOTE]

It's main purpose is pretty much a work ute, I'm a bricky so
Carting my own tools and supplies, intend to go camping and use it
As a 4x4. My old mans got a 70 series land cruiser in better condition then mine
So travel a bit with him as he is retired now.

I went with 3" exhaust. The CRDs manage the higher boost much better than the DI model.

Unless you want a "note" leave the exhaust till you lay a few more bricks,
Factor in $800 when the time comes.
figure out your mods winch, bar work side bars are handy on a ute imo.
What on the back a POD or just a flat tray??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

snip...
What on the back a POD or just a flat tray??

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ROFL... He's a brickie so my guess is...

1/2 a ton of bricky sand
1/2 a ton of bricks and or rubble
1/2 a ton of tools
1/2 a ton of beer from 'cash jobs'
plus 4 beaten up wheel barrows to hold the load down.

It's a CRD so...
No 1 priority is a Scan gauge, then a Scan gauge and if you haven't got one already get a Scan gauge.
After the Scan gauge I would put on a nice suspension (esp the rear end, towers etc), exhaust, EGR block and an EGT gauge if you chip/remap.
CRD's go pretty hard out of the box if you get them breathing better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

ROFL... He's a brickie so my guess is...

1/2 a ton of bricky sand
1/2 a ton of bricks and or rubble
1/2 a ton of tools
1/2 a ton of beer from 'cash jobs'
plus 4 beaten up wheel barrows to hold the load down.

It's a CRD so...
No 1 priority is a Scan gauge, then a Scan gauge and if you haven't got one already get a Scan gauge.
After the Scan gauge I would put on a nice suspension (esp the rear end, towers etc), exhaust, EGR block and an EGT gauge if you chip/remap.
CRD's go pretty hard out of the box if you get them breathing better.

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Forgot to mention the scangauge..
It was on my mind and was going to add it. They wife started nagging and it left my head lol..

Scangauge is an awesome bit of kit..

Recently have done the first engine mod to my 2012 CRD. I put a Beaudesert 2.75" exhaust on and loving it so far. I went with a resonator instead of a full muffler.
So far it has amazed me with the change in the uterus. Heaps more power (haven't measured it) but I reckon I have gained a gear. There are some hills around Brissie I used to have to go back to 3rd but now just powers over in 4th.
has a nice note but not intrusive when travelling.
The only annoyance is about 1500 and 2000 RPM the engine gives a little flutter where it feels like it looses power for a second then comes back again. Probably a reason for it but I can live with it until it gets a tune. Will mention it then when the ECU gets remapped.
My truck is a daily drive with an ally canopy on the back full time setup for camping and touring.
Can recommend the Beaudesert 2.75" so far, nice zorst.

I take it you have a leaf rear end ?