Zd30 won't accelerate past 90

Hey guys. I've been looking through the posts but I haven't gone through all of them yet. With so much helpful info that everyone here has put, up I still haven't been able to find anything that might help my current situation. I have only recently put a new clutch in my car and connected everything back up. I learned that this has two oil pressure switches, one near the oil filter and one above the starter motor. I also discovered a blockage in the vacuum line and have replaced the small hoses. I have gone over the motor quite a few times but I still can't figure out why when I take it for a drive and accelerate that it is very slow to get to 80 and won't get over 90. The moths in my wallet tell me I don't have much money so I can't go buying all the things I need for it just yet. I haven't put any of the NADS things on it yet but I need it to get back on the road ASAP. Can anyone offer some solution?

sounds like you are not getting any boost, is it blowing heaps of black smoke,
what area are you in ???

Hi three dogs, I'm in Townsville. It's not blowing heaps of black smoke, blows a bit under heavy acceleration when in neutral. But I can't even get the revs very high while in gear.

when was the last time the MAF sensor was cleaned ??

I bought some cleaner a couple weeks ago and cleaned it last week

still think maybe a vacuum hose is on wrong, did it all of a sudden lose power
or was after you changed a few bits
What year is it BTW

It's an 03. It wasn't a sudden loss it just seems to happen while in gear.

still sounds like your turbo is not working, Id recheck all the vacuum hoses.
Your EGTs must be getting up there too, thats why we stress to NADS
your Patrol so you can see whats happening,, I know funds dont allow it
ATM.

Yeah I was worried about that. The turbo is reasonably new so I hope it isn't buggered. Can you tell me please three dogs where might be the best place to get these things for the NADS?

Dont think the turbo is buggered just think its not working
Give Mudski a PM he's your go to man for all things NADS related

Thanks for your help three dogs. I am extremely appreciative of you and the other guys that provide so much valuable information and explain it in easy to understand ways.
When it comes to concreting, I am really bad but when it comes to mechanics, I would make a great concreter.
So thank you again for all your help.

Dont give up yet the others wil see this soon and
have their own idea of whats causing your problem

Can you hear the turbo working it should be very audible I would think

Yep the turbo is working. Makes quite a whistle when I'm at 80 and just holding the speed. Whilst in neutral I was giving it some to make sure that the vacuum for the turbo was working and could get it easily to 4000 rpm but when driving it struggled to get to 3000.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chewindust

Yeah I was worried about that. The turbo is reasonably new so I hope it isn't buggered. Can you tell me please three dogs where might be the best place to get these things for the NADS?

---

Where did the turbo come from bud? I have seen some bad ZD turbos going around.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chewindust

Yep the turbo is working. Makes quite a whistle when I'm at 80 and just holding the speed. Whilst in neutral I was giving it some to make sure that the vacuum for the turbo was working and could get it easily to 4000 rpm but when driving it struggled to get to 3000.

---

Hmm so its a load related issue then maybe. You know anyone with the same motor you can borrow their maf from? Does it do it when cold, hot etc etc. Last time the fuel filter was changed?
Check the intercooler too for leaks. If its leaking you will lose boost, and more under engine load which in turn will result in less engine power. Oil deposits on the intercooler is a giveaway sign of leaks.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

make it a bit easier for you does it have the original Intercooler if the answer is yes and its all oily.
that may well be your problem or one of them
Getting it to rev to 4000 rpm doesnt mean the turbo is not or is working

It's a crimped IC and I think it's original, as well as oil in it so I need to flush that out till I get a new one. It also had a heap of oil in the sensor on the IC. Turbo is about 7 years old and was bought brand new. The old one buggered up and had to be replaced.
The fuel filter is brand new. On that, is there a way to get the fuel primed quicker than standing there for ages priming it with the pump on the filter housing?
I don't know anyone that has a car like this so I will probably just buy a new Max.

I mean MAF

One you need to get a tig welded IC asap and then see how you go
this needs to be changed no matter what so it will be one less thing to worry about.
Also check the blue hose in the pic they have a habit of blowing off.

I was talking to a bloke at a radiator place and he was telling about some ICs that he deals with that are welded. I can't remember much of what he said because it was over a year ago I spoke to him but I vaguely remember the price is around 300 or so. Does that sound about right?

The hose is good because I checked them when I was going through the vacuum hoses.

$300 is a good price at one stage they were $600 changeover

Try disconnecting the park neutral switch on the drivers side of the geabox and see if that makes any difference.

Also make sure that the gearbox harness wasn't damaged during the clutch change.

Can you please explain the gearbox harness?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chewindust

Can you please explain the gearbox harness?

---

Theres a wiring harness that runs beside the gearbox. Just check and make sure there is no damage to it.
I'd be looking at the intercooler i reckon.
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

As suggested by Yendor check the park/neutral switch and the gearbox harness.
That will cost you nothing,
you'll still need to replace the IC as soon as you can though

What is the park neutral switch? Is that on auto gearboxes? Mine is manual. We are having some rain here so I'll check that tomorrow.

Yes I know you have a manual as you replaced the clutch. Yes the manual gearboxes also have a park neutral switch.

Personally I think you have a faulty MAF as stated previously. My suggestion was something to check/try before you spent coin.