Has anyone fitted a UFI fan & hub.
If so did it help in lowering the temps,
Cheers
Tonks
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Has anyone fitted a UFI fan & hub.
If so did it help in lowering the temps,
Cheers
Tonks
They are apparently ducks nuts . From reading the forum here and the FB pages people swear by them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonks
Rocket55 fitted one not long ago . They give out a bit of noise and supposedly take off 5-10kw off your power pool .
Tapatalked from S6
I have no personnel experiance with the info I am about to give you. Only from my research so take it as you like. I have heard good things about the UFI fan & hub assembly but I also stummbled upon a thread which I can't find now adays where a fellow with a TD42 getting hot fitted a Toyota coaster Fan to the existing Nissan Hub & it fixed his running hot problem. A hell a lot cheaper if it dose work. The part number is Toyota Coaster Bus ZPN-06129. He had to mod the fan do fit. From what I can see looking at a pick on Ebay it just needs a bit of the 4 mounting tabs grouns down a little. from what i have read the TD42 hot thing is an air flow issue. These fans like the UFI fan pul a lot more air. Like I said No experiance with it but $90 compared to $600 I'd give the $90 jobbie a go & see. Then you can let me know if it works incase I start experiancing the running hot problems. Cheers Jono.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonks
I'm about to fit this one and add some Toyota silicone oil to my TD42T hub.
This is the fan used on the Infiniti G35
...
Yeah i got one of those too coming soon. But i will do the fan first before i do the yota oil just to see what difference it makes. I wondering how the G35 hub would go too.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
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I'd be interested to see what clearances you have. I know I have to modify my shroud because it will hit.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Probably have to move the rad 15mm forward just for a little more peace of mind.
Are they meant to push more air than standard? Looking at those fins... it may .
I was talking to UFI today about ordering bits and bobs and the hub/fan they sell , I'm pretty sure from memory he said was $590 ?
It's way more aggressive than the original. Probably hard to see in the pic but they're impressive to look at closely.
Is that $590 + postage? I don't have that kind of money to throw at a fan and hub. That's 2/3 of the price of the new Mamba turbo I'm buying.
I'm confident the stock hub will do the job with a little more oil added.
Yeah thats big coin for something, i believe, Eric, you dont need. From my understanding anyway. If you put a bigger pump on, bigger turbo, your fuel usage will increase and therfore create more heat, then it would be worth it. Even mine, it gets to 110c fully loaded and towing the camper, it doesn't conecern me too much, but obviously, i want to keep things cooler.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
I have read and heard so many conflicting stories on radiators too. Some say the oem rad is good, some say a 3 core is better. Then i have heard that a 3 core will restrict air flow and you will not benenfit. Then you have cheap ally 3 cores, right up to PWR radiator for around 11hunge!
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Interesting... Might look into it.
I'm sure it was 590 i was getting other stuff and all sorts of numbers were thrown around so don't remember 100%.
Might be less.
Tapatalked from S6
Ohh cooling system discussions.......
Yeah its a revolving door hey?Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
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Look the ufi fan and hub assembly does work but it is only something that should compliment a well maintained system. It is really $600 wasted if the rest of your system isnt up to scratch. So I would recommend before forking out for a ufi unit make sure your cooling system is 100%. Then you can decide which way to go.
All I will say about radiators is I have one of those $1100 items in my ute. It has nearly 50% more capacity than standard, is full alloy and is only a 2 core. I have never had any issues with temps even when towing a 3.5t horsefloat. But when I put the radiator in I completely service the cooling system- all new hoses, full flush of block,heater core and header tank, new thermostat, waterpump and caps.
Is that the pwr radiator you have Mat? That something else i was thinknig about a while ago too. would a thicker two core be better than a 3core...
Have you heard much about Aussie Desert coolers? They are only around the corner from me.
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Mines an adrad item that I purchased through ARE. I never considered a pwr item
As for 2 core vs 3 core there are so many things that need to be taken into consideration so its hard to really make a call on that. Things like surface area, airflow through the core, water flow through the radiator, capacity, frontal area etc etc. Most decent ones will be 2 core from what I have seen.
I have a good quality 2 core radiator put together by bundoora radiators.
Good hoses with a higher rated radiator cap and performance pump.
Standard thermostat and all the shrouds fitted properly.
Yeah your td runs pretty cool too doesn't it...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
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Yes it does... couldn't figure out why temps were up on saturday coming back from the back blocks near yea then when i got home i saw the ambient temp was nearly 40 and i was pushing it towing a trailer. .. highest i saw was 99 going up a long hill up the hume going a little too fast and once i backed down to speed limit temp returned to about 90.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I don't think I'd buy the ufi hub unless I was doing some serious towing. Too much $ for my liking.
The bloke at ufi only mentioned it to me since it was a common item people order with the stuff I'm getting. Kind of like a package.
But I'll be keeping an eye on your feedback about this infinity hub.
Tapatalked from S6
Surly the old TD42 cooling cant be that bad? I've driven mine on a stinking hot day in Perth with the A/C cranking and the gauge sat in its normal spot around 1/2 way.
My GTiR pulsar only has one thermo fan due to the size of the turbo and lack of space and it doesn't overheat even on a hot day.
Maybe just due to the age of them the radiator just needs a good clean??
Been a few posts lately about the "mighty" 4.2 TD overheating or at least getting hot.
Is it a boost issue or over fuelling issue what? I think BA hit the nail on the head with that water
pump he brought, probably gives an extra 40% flow rate easy. ???
Question is of all the 4.2TD owners here GQ and GU who has had over heating issues
at one time or another and what caused it.?
It just the nature of the beast. I have the same water pump as BA and mine runs hotter than his still. The oem gauge doesn't move so im not really concerned a great deal. I just watch the temps when towing thats all.
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Was hoping there was a common denominator that might help others.
seems its a combination of a few things,
No dramas , flushed the full cooling system when i bought it , internal and external clean of the rad , was towing 3.2 t of boat for a while , also regually tows the van up the beachs at high tide, (soft sand ) towed the van around the outback 5000k in 35 - 40 deg , up cunning ham gap , and toowoomba ranges without issue, will cruise on 110kph all day without blinking an eye ,Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Yep I'd love a bit more poke ,( especially down low , nature of the beast ) but until the budget extends to a complete rebuild top to bottom as well , it ain't happining !
Stock aside from snorkel , 3in muffed exhaust and 285s
Ps just my experience, like all things it's expectations, and horses for courses !
Also got a bonnet protector as well , arb steel bar and spot lights ☺
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My temps are fine. And I dare say they will stay that way for a long time since I do not intend on towing anything...
My whole cooling system is being completely gutted soon. So full flush, fresh coolant, new hoses, new belts, high flow pump, etc... I half considered the UFI fan, while the whole thing is apart but then found out the price. Hence why I'm still keen to hear the result of this infinity setup. Just want to be a bit pro-active about it ...
besides the 3" straight theu exhaust & the previous owner got it dyno tuned, gained another 10hp so he says, Mine is stock engine wise. 4" lift & 35's & the temp gauge reads 1/3 on the gauge. Comming back from QLD the other week, high 30's Possiably 40 deg heat around coolah & the A/C on, up the hills sitting on 110-120 the temp gauge didn't get past half way & returned super quick once the load was off. At the moment mines good but it only has 67xxx klms.
My ol GQ pushing 22psi lots a fuel & 400000 plus kays & it would get hot, infact Thats why I have the GU. The Q melted 3 pistons! Once I pulled it down it had been cross firing can't remember what cyl, all the precomps were cracked & it had several cracks in the head. I think once they have been really hot a couple of times the damage is done. It would run ok untill it was pushed or loaded up & then it always ran on the upperside of the temp gauge. drove it like that for years but pushed it to hard for to long up a hill. Pyro was on 580 for a fair time & the temp gauge was on the 1st line aswel & it finally gave up.
what I'm getting at ( just my opinion) Is a lot of blokes start having the heat issue then go all out changing this & that,bigger radiator,fan,tune etc etc $$$$$$$ & still to have it run hot. But if it has cracked the head it dosn't bother it untill the engine is stressed. My GU has no fancy anything for the cooling system. Just all original in as new condition. Once one part of it starts to age then I will get heat issues. If I can find & rectify that part before it cracks the head then I reckon it will be right till the next part fails.
I know a lot of blokes find a fix maybe with that $1100 radiator or $600 fan/hub but maybe the head had not cracked & they think that big $$ item fixed their problem. I know a lot of variables come into play as in towing bigger turbo,pump & tunes & I'd say maybe some need that bigger rad or that fan/hub etc as the factory stuff can't cope. I've probably gone the long way about it lol but just wondering how many have cracked heads & don't know it, & those that have spent big $$$ when it may have just been one simple part that they changed last?
Mine never got hot unless I was towing, regardless of how I was driving it after the mods. Hang a 3.2T van on the back and it got pretty hot going up big hills at speed, and I mean proper big long hills. From here I put in new fluid, hoses, thermostat (standard one), UFI fan and hub and a 3 core copper/brass Rapid Cool radiator, problem solved. Going up the same hills that saw temps skyrocket and me backing off, I can now stay in it.
When I had my GQ ute it got hot once on the way home from Steep Point on a stinking hot day, I was asleep & woke to an odd engine note, the friend of a friend that was driving said it wouldn't go any faster than 90, he had held it to the floor for around 15 minutes. I took the driving lights off & never had another problem.
Graham
Its a hot topic !Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
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All the cool kids are discussing air conditionersQuote:
Originally Posted by gaddy
Graham
I think Eric is on the right track, instead of buying big $$$ items
just make what you have work as efficiently as you can.
I started a thread last year on work I'd been doing with the G35 (and the C34 which has a slightly less aggressive pitch but is a far easier fit due to different offset ring placement)Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engin...n-mods-302049/
the fundamental problem is about air flow, and that can be confused with issues about absolute CFM, which actually has a point of diminishing returns. ie absolute high CFM will get to a point where it becomes detrimental rather than beneficial
not sure if its been flagged, but the toyo fan is 20mm larger in diameter than the std nissan fan, so there is the potential for shroud strike if you have any non standard items (rad, shroud, body lift etc...)
I put Aussie Desert Cooler in ute before recent trip across the middle to west coast and up to NT and at same time a VDO temp gauge. Not towing but right on GVM all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Temps usually sat on 80 to 85 and rarely got over 90 although going up the 5 rivers lookout at Wyndham it went to 110 and factory gauge did not move from normal.
All alloy and no plastic top tank to split at worst possible time.
So glad I changed radiator before trip as one less thing to worry about breaking.
Hi there! Been away from this site for a while, and have since updated from a TD GQ to a TD GU, not a bad rig but old mate severely understated the overheating issue, the engine is fine, no evidence of cracked head/liner etc. fitted an aftermarket gauge and was surprised to find the Nissan gauge got to its operating temp spot on the gauge at 60degrees and didn't move til nearly 100degrees. Fitted a desert cooler Radiator with very little effect, turned my attention to airflow, removed spotties and fitted an 8 blade GQ fan with a locked hub, And Bugger me, pulled up a big hill in 35 degree ambient for a high of 86degrees coolant temp. As I was on a timetable and heading away for Christmas towing a camper I locked my GU hub nicely and refitted GU fan, guess what? Same hill, same ambient temp and 96 degrees on gauge WTF! Bit more research and apparently the GQ 8 blade straight fan pulls twice as much air as the seven blade GU fan🙄, so for the moment I banged on the locked up GQ fan and towed a ridiculously over loaded camper down to Busso only ever reaching 86 degrees, phew, cheers for reading, will update as I find out more👍🏻
I have recently fitted the Ufi fan and hub, so far it seems the factory gauge is sitting slightly lower than previously as I don't have an aftermarket temp gauge and very little extra noise. This is with stock cooling system so a bit of beach work on a hot day will soon test it out.
I was very pleased I put an aftermarket coolant temp gauge on my rig, the factory gauge is stationary for at least a 35+ degree temperature variance and it hits its normal mark at 60degrees. The boys at united told me the UFI fan and hub will not fit with the desert cooler Radiator so I am keen to see if I can mod a GQ fan and hub set up to pull sufficient air👍🏻
Check with mudrunner he fitted a y62 fan blade to his gu, not sure it will fit the Gq but he says it looks very similar to the Ufi fanQuote:
Originally Posted by Bushy674
Cheers Stropp! Will look into it👍🏻
Hi RocketQuote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
I do more reading than posting so I hope I am able to reply to an old post.
Mine too also gets hot when pulling van up long hills.
I have a few more ponies than stock and have fitted UFI fan.
Although it has helped, it hasn't solved it.
I've been led to believe an after market radiator will not fit with UFI fan.
Could you provide any specifics on radiator fitted to yours please?
Thanks.
Johnny.