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Hi,
I'm looking at a used cargo barrier from a wreckers and it has the 4 metal straps.
They say there is a mounting/lug kit that's needed and can't be removed from the old 'trol and costs about $120 extra.
Now I thought that the top straps were bolted to the rear seat ceiling handle fixings and the bottom went to a pre existing socket on the cargo floor.
Am I wrong?
Can anyone shed any light or perhaps have a photo of their own fitting?
It's a genuine Nissan barrier and a 2008 GU VI.
Thanks.
Hi mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by besp
I think you will need the lug kits, mine wasn't a genuine Nissan (didn't realise they actually made them) but a Milford and I had to drill the holes and add the kit.
Here's a link to the fitting instructions http://www.milford-auto.com/fitting_...ons/405000.pdf
If you're handy you could make them yourself, you don't need Number 6 in the picture (it's just a plastic cover).
Thanks Apollofish.
So if I understand correctly, the M10 sockets (captive nuts) already exist in the chassis and the kit is basically packing out the void between the thin internal metal skin of the floor/ceiling and the M10 sockets on the sub frame?
Or do the plates in the kit have a thread for the M10 bolt?
Hi besp,
From memory no captive nuts, the plates were threaded. Biggest worry I had was making sure I didn't drill into the fuel tank.
I made 2 lengths of flat bar and fitted them to the mounting holes for the rear grab handles. Got the idea from someone else who did it that way.
Could post pics tomorrow if I remember
Thanks. Sounds like I need to fabricate something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollofish
And I'll watch out for that fuel tank!
Hi John, that would be great if you could.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Buggered if I'm going to pay $130 on a couple of bolts and a few metal plates.
Here's a pic of mine
...
Attachment 64763
I pretty much did the same thing but instead of welding piece in but used the spacer that comes with a set of child restraint bolts. About 10mm spacer. I also used a spade drill bit underneath through trim to make space for nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
When I remove the barrier, I remove those plates too so it's back to original with no holes
Brilliant. Thanks a lot chaps.
Any reason I can't bend the bracket a bit and fit to the handrail bolts?
And what about the floor mounts? How did you deal with those?
You might want to consider that when you get a rated cargo barrier, the top brackets (fixed to the grab handle holes) is actually corrugated so in the event of a sudden stop they straighten slightly to absorb the shock--kinda like air bags. No worries so long as you don't hit anything.
Good point Dr Gary.
Think I'll just make the plate!
what area are you from ??Quote:
Originally Posted by besp
Sydney mate.
Bummer thought I may have been able to help you out.
Thanks anyway threedogs.:thumbup:
Hi JFFQuote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Just bought a 2nd hand barrier , was thinking bout doing exactly what you have done . After putting the steel plate between the grab handle and the roof , we're the original handle bolts still long enough or are longer bolts required , to allow for the thickness of the steel plate ?
I used longer high tensile 6mm bolts in place of the Philips head originals
Cheers mateQuote:
Originally Posted by jff45