Warning--DX door locks

Hi all

A bit of advice for us who have the DX models.For those with more expensive models, we only have manual door locks with a standard key-no electronics.
Had problems locking drivers side door for a few weeks so eventually had a look. Lucky because if left it could have been expensive-bloody expensive.
After fiddling around with locking mechanism while I had door open, found that when in closed position-that is latch in closed position it could not be opened again without depressing internal latch with a screw driver. This would have been impossible with door actually closed and no amount of playing with connecting rods from internal and external latches can work.
Off to Mr Nissan for a new one expecting to have to wait a few days as local dealer usually only stocks items that sell readily but yes they were in stock as they had a run on them recently.It is a pressed unit so cannot be repaired and wreckers usually only sell door as a unit.
Part no is 80502VB100 and cost $308.
So message is if you door lock plays up, check it out immediately before door is closed and lock decides not to open.

Ever since I’ve had mine the drivers door lock has been a little ‘idiosnynchratic’, no issue with locking it at all, but generally to unlock it I have to first turn the key as though locking it before I can unlock it. (i.e. turn one way then the other). It always works, but has always struck me as a bit odd.

Anyone ever sprayed some graphite powder or CRC into the lock.?
keep the pins free

I often have to lift the handle before unlocking


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

Ever since I’ve had mine the drivers door lock has been a little ‘idiosnynchratic’, no issue with locking it at all, but generally to unlock it I have to first turn the key as though locking it before I can unlock it. (i.e. turn one way then the other). It always works, but has always struck me as a bit odd.

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Hi Cuppa
Exactly how mine started to play up. Once it is difficult to lock from inside or outside, you may have a problem.

cheers

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Anyone ever sprayed some graphite powder or CRC into the lock.?
keep the pins free

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Hi TD

In is not the barrel where the key goes in. It is the locking mechanism in the door when the latch rolls over to go around the retaining bracket on the body.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Anyone ever sprayed some graphite powder or CRC into the lock.?
keep the pins free

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warning only use graphite powder, a locksmith said never use crc as it will attract dust and get worse, i now have a bottle of spray powder.

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Originally Posted by Wizard52

Hi Cuppa
Exactly how mine started to play up. Once it is difficult to lock from inside or outside, you may have a problem.

cheers

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So I’m guessing the $308 is the ‘low cost’ way out? Presumably the alternative could be a complete new door?

To clarify, this has nothing to do with the door key operated lock, it is the latch that holds the door shut and operated by the door handle?

How can you easily test it?

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

So I’m guessing the $308 is the ‘low cost’ way out? Presumably the alternative could be a complete new door?

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Don't know how you could get door off when it is closed and locked and key or internal lock can't be used. The whole door wold have to be destroyed I suppose so it is really a bit of a safety problem. Lucky we have manual windows and none of those fancy electric things?

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Originally Posted by Jonesy_sa

To clarify, this has nothing to do with the door key operated lock, it is the latch that holds the door shut and operated by the door handle?

How can you easily test it?

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Spot on. Can't think of any test but in my case I had some warning as it was difficult to lock and unlock so I had a look and so lucky that door was open when it eventually could not be unlocked when the "latch" was in closed position. There is a small sliding bit under the latch which would not move to allow it to unlock. I could move it with a small screw driver while door was open but obviously it would be impossible when door was closed. No amount of juggling the connecting rods from door latches helped so I presume something internal in mechanism broke.

I don’t suppose by any chance that you (or anyone else) has a photo or a parts diagram of the offending item?

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

I don’t suppose by any chance that you (or anyone else) has a photo or a parts diagram of the offending item?

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Ive just fixed my latch and lock mechanism this arvo. Ill chuck up a photo of the part on mine that was causing the issue... Was literally a minor 'adjustment' to one of the rods that appeared to have sagged over its 25 years, now its good as new! Save your money for something better ;)

My used to stay locked and be unable to open the door from either side, jiggling the lock up and down a few times used to free it up until it finally gave up the ghost the other day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

I don’t suppose by any chance that you (or anyone else) has a photo or a parts diagram of the offending item?

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Hi Cuppa

Finally got photo. The 3 screws have to be removed to take locking mechanism out after removing connecting rods from latches so obviously it would be impossible with door shut. The offending part is under the curved metal thing which secures the door to the "U" bracket on body work. As the curved bit rotates when door is closed, there is a bit under it which has to drop down to unlock door and if it breaks door stays locked.

Thanks Wiz, I’ll have a closer look at mine. However since you first mentioned this I have been taking more notice of the locking /unlocking & strangely it is now operating without issue! Weird!

AHHHHHHHHHHH FuBAR b@stard bloody bugger bum!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by growler2058

AHHHHHHHHHHH FuBAR b@stard bloody bugger bum!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Oh good you found the thread, its a DX thing
why not take it and get remote locking fitted,
not that Im a fan of remote locking

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Oh good you found the thread, its a DX thing
why not take it and get remote locking fitted,
not that Im a fan of remote locking

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They dont have remote mate. Its just central lock with the key, what a MOFO!!!!

yeah, I added after market controller to the drivers door on my DX
now, press key on remote, all doors unlock or lock, as per your want at the time

This link might help some,
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissa...s/83475?page=1

Mine has always had it's own personality too. One key works like a charm and the other one needs to be wiggled and jiggled but it always opens.

Has Growler fixed his door lock problem yet??

i've had this issue too

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Has Growler fixed his door lock problem yet??

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The only way is to drill the f@rkr out from inside the door at the back find the littl farkr latch then release the door and replace mechanism........ basically its a #### of a thing and the farkwit engineer at nissan that came up with it needs a farkn bullet. I currently have a drivers door trim that is farkd and still a locked door until i buy a new mechanism $300 plastic piece of shit. When i have \that I'll drill the old farker out

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Originally Posted by Ryank

i've had this issue too

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Awesome!

How did you get the door open to fix it?

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

Awesome!

How did you get the door open to fix it?

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Thats why hes here for the manual hahahahahaha

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Originally Posted by growler2058

Thats why hes here for the manual hahahahahaha

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... I know... but thats OK... I'm here for the sarcasm

Go buy 2 x ST doors lol

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

... I know... but thats OK... I'm here for the sarcasm

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Would never have guessed that.

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

... I know... but thats OK... I'm here for the sarcasm

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5000 posts to qualify for sarcasm.

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Originally Posted by 4bye4

5000 posts to qualify for sarcasm.

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... stand by for 757 newby welcome posts

I've got my own sarcasm so I don't have to get mine off the forum.

thanks for all the info.

and a another thanks from me too!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

Ever since I’ve had mine the drivers door lock has been a little ‘idiosnynchratic’, no issue with locking it at all, but generally to unlock it I have to first turn the key as though locking it before I can unlock it. (i.e. turn one way then the other). It always works, but has always struck me as a bit odd.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wizard52

Hi Cuppa
Exactly how mine started to play up. Once it is difficult to lock from inside or outside, you may have a problem.

cheers

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Finally got around to fitting the new lock today. In my hand pressing the lever operated by the door handle makes a slight click on the old one, but not on the new. The apparently problematic plastic pivot points are intact & I can't see anything different between old & new.

With the new door lock fitted & the door locked I often need to still turn the key as though locking it before I can unlock it (although not every time), but the mechanism does feel a lot smoother. I reckon it was probably wise to change it & can at least now not have to worry that I won't get it open.

If anyone can advise exactly what I'm looking for I'll break the plastic cover off the old one & examine it more closely (& take pics to post).

Since no one posts in these forums on these old threads, I thought I would give an update in 2025 on this problem to help anyone else out. It took me 3 nights of like 6 hours lying across my ute front seats probably getting a hernia to get mine open. It depends what your problem is as to how to fix.

Mine the mechanism was completely shagged, so it was stuck locked and couldn't unlock no matter what. Even pulling out the inside handle as per some guides to give it some force on the lock and handle opener to no go. Once I got the lock out later I can see why this didn't work as its completely shagged.

What worked for me was pulling away the inside door seals which opens a small gap that you can see into the striker with a torch. its awkward as fuck because most wire is too stiff or too loose or too thick to get in there and activate the mechanism to push DOWN and open the door on the bottom of the locking mechanism.

What finally worked for me was getting a piece of high tensile flat stainless steel wire from a coathanger at woolworths thats made for hanging shorts or pants with the press to open aligator style clips. Its flat bar and i was able to get this in and over or under the black striker and push down because it would bend but not stay bent, it was like a spring. THIS WORKED after hours of furiously spamming it around in there and the door popped open.

Attachment 88958

Screenshot of the coathanger that worked.

Practice lots on the other door and remember the striker locks TWICE. I spent ages thinking i was doing the right thing on only the first click.... which puts the striker in a different position to fully locked.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snook

Since no one posts in these forums on these old threads, I thought I would give an update in 2025 on this problem to help anyone else out. It took me 3 nights of like 6 hours lying across my ute front seats probably getting a hernia to get mine open. It depends what your problem is as to how to fix.

Mine the mechanism was completely shagged, so it was stuck locked and couldn't unlock no matter what. Even pulling out the inside handle as per some guides to give it some force on the lock and handle opener to no go. Once I got the lock out later I can see why this didn't work as its completely shagged.

What worked for me was pulling away the inside door seals which opens a small gap that you can see into the striker with a torch. its awkward as fuck because most wire is too stiff or too loose or too thick to get in there and activate the mechanism to push DOWN and open the door on the bottom of the locking mechanism.

What finally worked for me was getting a piece of high tensile flat stainless steel wire from a coathanger at woolworths thats made for hanging shorts or pants with the press to open aligator style clips. Its flat bar and i was able to get this in and over or under the black striker and push down because it would bend but not stay bent, it was like a spring. THIS WORKED after hours of furiously spamming it around in there and the door popped open.

Attachment 88958

Screenshot of the coathanger that worked.

Practice lots on the other door and remember the striker locks TWICE. I spent ages thinking i was doing the right thing on only the first click.... which puts the striker in a different position to fully locked.

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Thank for the feedback. You might just have save someone else from having a real bad day.