Can anyone tell me if the breather bung that screws into/onto the diff (rear) is a generic part I can purchase from places like repco or autobarn etc etc
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Can anyone tell me if the breather bung that screws into/onto the diff (rear) is a generic part I can purchase from places like repco or autobarn etc etc
Are you fitting new breathers or have you damaged it?
If your breathers are damaged then you could just unscrew it and put a piece of tape over the hole for the day and take it in. I'd send you to Des Mundays in North Geelong near the Arena for your fittings and he will sort you out for all the pneumatic line you need to make your own breather kit for sure mate.
cheers mate, answered my question spot on. I was underneath just having a browse around the other night as iv only just not long bought the car. I noticed the little "dick" that the hose slides over was broken off.
I think they are 1/8th bsp I used push on fittings terminating at a manifold behind the motor on the firewall.
If your ever up Melb way yell out
yeah i was looking at those on eBay, mine already has the factory diff breathers that run up into the passenger side guard, well the front diff, gearbox and transfer case. I haven't followed the rear yet to figure out where it goes but it does have a hose running off somewhere.
I do venture up to melb from time to time, I actually plan on getting a bit involved with this forum sooner or later. Nothing to serious tho as my troll is my every day driver, i am only really interested in mild track work. Mud bashing and bush bashing for fun doesn't excite me all that much lol, neither does a car laying on it side or roof haha
Rear diff only goes to chassis cross member above the diff..
Not very far at all
Sweet, saves me looking..... i'll redo all that, I'll have a look later on and find a new place to fit it higher up. i don't plan on doing crazy river crossings but just incase things don't goto plan lol.
In the gq I took all 4 points as high as I could on the fire wall..
You could re -route it up through the big rubber grommet under the back
and into the 1/4 panel cavity, allowing for full suspension droop etc
I ran mine along the chassis rail and to the fire wall behind the motor
yeah might run it up into the engine bay... i'll mount it on the inner guard right where the rest go through into the guard
dont forget gearbox/auto and transfer case as well
they are all good, it has the stock metal lines running up into the passenger side guard behind the snorkle
I ran my diff breathers along the chassis rail up to the engine bay fire wall...., gearbox / transfer case are still on the todo list
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...016/01/148.jpg
As others have said the rear diff factory breather is useless and terminates in the chassis cross member. Whilst The front diff and gearbox / transfer case go into he passenger side guard (3 metal tubes) - depending on your type of driving / depth of river crossings they recommend to relocate to the firewall as well
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Des Munday will sell the air line and fittings you need to make up a kit much Cheaper than an eBay kit.
I went a cheaper option and also mounted the filters facing down so that no moisture can dribble down the tubes. I have lost a little bit of hieght, but if my rb30 has water that high, it isn't gunna run anyway:(
I did similar to mudnut, rubber hose with small fuel filters on the end. Did a loop with the end of my hose, not enough to crimp it, but thinking if I am ever deep enough, hopefully create a bit of an 'air lock' in the hose itself. Time will tell, but so far so good.
Just an automotive grade rubber. I am thinking of upgrading the rear diff to chassis piece with some tougher stuff.
Yep. one rubber hose running from the rear diff right along to the engine bay and just some barbed T pieces inline for where the gearbox, transfer and front diff go in. With a filter at the end....
Decent rubber will outlast and be much stronger than the nylon tubing commonly used.
Yeah I figured the same, decent rubber will last. 10m roll of fuel hose was enough for two cars, running individual lines rather than t-piecing in (personal preference). Think it was less than $100 to do my gq and my old man's GU. I used a bit of silicone (the oil resistant one) around the joins to the barb, just to be sure.
Also for others, use something that's rated for a bit of heat (which is why I chose fuel hose). The gearbox/transfer breathers ran close to my exhaust, the original tube I ran melted pretty quick which is why I upgraded to the fuel hose. 12 months on and no issues. FWIW I've run them as far away from the exhaust as possible.