Engine shut off

I was driving today with my dual fuel patrol (TB45) and the engine suddenly shut off.
All lights came on (like when you start the engine) and I was losing speed. I was driving on gas at the moment (for an hour or so) and engine was behaving normal before (95degrees). When the engine shut off, there was a bit of gassy smell. After stopping (normal breaks didnt work well weirdly enough so used handbrake) and restarting everything seemed normal. I think I had around 20liters left so it wasnt a fuel shortage. Anybody any ideas what might have gone wrong?

Hi Danny, mine did the same a while back ,I found that the power connectors to the LPG system where lose. I replaced them all with new one's ,so now tight fit . all good regards Alex

I've been told some 90% of the LPG issues are electrical.

@ Dom make that 99%, once you re-do any connectors put a drop or two of 5min Araldite on it.
Loose connections cause sparks and sparks cause well you know what.
Check water level too, firm believer in using "Ys" instead of "Ts" is is just more efficient with less cavitation

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251595381...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks guys, I looked at the plugs and nothing seems lose. I will get it checked out at a mechanic

do you have ABS brakes ??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

do you have ABS brakes ??

---

I honestly do not know....how to find this out??

You said the brakes went funny, in the engine bay in front of the passenger
their will be your ABS ditribution block,, tubes etc I think, thats why its difficult to fit a dual battery to
an ABS patrol

Yeah true. I was driving 100km/h and the car is so heavy that it slowed down fast enough but had to use the hand brake to stop on tine in the emergency bay. I had once before in a friends car that the engine shut off and the brake didnt work. Not sure why that is. I thought it was a hydrologic system. Enclosed a photo of the engine bay.

Runned the engine today on gas for 10min and nothing weird happened. Somebody suggested potential freezing of the converter but the cooling system has been checked three months ago when I changed radiator.

Only other thing I changed yesterday was that I started using an ecutalk.

Park it on a hill [steep] nose up. cut the bottom off a coke bottle
and invert it in the radiator, you may have an air lock, so you need to "burp"
the system, also loosen the hoses at the convertor air will get trapped there.
make sure all hoses are tight before closing the bonnet.
you haven't pushed any wrong values via the ecu-talk have you

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

Park it on a hill [steep] nose up. cut the bottom off a coke bottle
and invert it in the radiator, you may have an air lock, so you need to "burp"
the system, also loosen the hoses at the convertor air will get trapped there.
make sure all hoses are tight before closing the bonnet.
you haven't pushed any wrong values via the ecu-talk have you

---

Nope. Just set an alarm for when the radiator gets above 100 degrees

So put the coke bottle at where the radiator cap normally goes?

yes ,cut the bottom off you may need to squeeze the top hose when its up to temp.
Carefull you dont scold yourself, all this does is lift your
fill point so hopefully any trapped air will be removed

TD does the td4.2t suffer with the same issue just for info .

@ DT I think the TD 4.2 has bleed points on the back of the block.
Maybe one of the 4.2 guys could comfirm it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

yes ,cut the bottom off you may need to squeeze the top hose when its up to temp.
Carefull you dont scold yourself, all this does is lift your
fill point so hopefully any trapped air will be removed

---

I did this and hopefully it helps.
I found that there was a bit of foam generated (10cm or so) with on top of the a bit of brown residue, is that normal? The radiator is brand new, as well as the hoses. No head gasket problem was found when the radiator was replaced

Foam sounds like its cavitating, maybe time to try those "Y" pieces.
Dont forget the hose on the exit of the converter, air will get trapped there.
In good conditions it should never freeze.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

Foam sounds like its cavitating, maybe time to try those "Y" pieces.
Dont forget the hose on the exit of the converter, air will get trapped there.
In good conditions it should never freeze.

---

I will get one of those. Should I be worried about the brown residue?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dannypatrol

I will get one of those. Should I be worried about the brown residue?

---

Not overly concerned ATS ,can you skim it off some how?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

Not overly concerned ATS ,can you skim it off some how?

---

Yeah should be able to pipet some out of it.

I havent had the problem anymore but notice that running on LPG my average temperature is 95 degrees. I found another thread with temperatures of the TB45 on petrol of around 85. Does anyone have a TB45 on LPG and idea of temperatures (normal motorway driving with outside temp of 20)?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

@ Dom make that 99%, once you re-do any connectors put a drop or two of 5min Araldite on it.
Loose connections cause sparks and sparks cause well you know what.
Check water level too, firm believer in using "Ys" instead of "Ts" is is just more efficient with less cavitation

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251595381...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

---

Yes, and my bad. From memory of your last post to me, I knew it's somewhere in the 90+% range. :D