GU 5th Gear

Hi,

After a quick read I notice no pic or info on repairing the 5th gear on a GU.
Since I have cocked mine up and had to remove the box (last night), I thought I would share what I have learned.

Removing the box: Ideally, get someone else to do it. Seriously, you need to remove everything, slip that big bastard back 5mm to clear the locating dowel and spin it clockwise about 140-180 degrees. To do this you 1st need to remove the top linkage plate completely. Sounds simple, it took me 6 hours to strip that sucker and get it out.

I will post some pictures of the box after it is on some tressels. Hopefully some of you may have some hints as to where my issue lays. Problem is 5th gear, she is all noise and no go. It's a grinding screeching noise, hence it is a she.......lol.

Here you go. This is where I am at as it stands. One of these gears has failed. I cant really tell yet as both seem a bit less than perfect. Does anyone know which usually fails? Apparantly it is a common problem.

Howdy, 5th gear trouble not out of ordinary, use 4th gear where possible under severe load or towing etc... Hard to see in pic, is 5th gear damaged?? You can try changing gears and watch through top plate making sure everything moving correctley ie slip rings,selector arms etc. was there any bits and pieces in the oil wen you drained it? Also a screeching can indicate bearing failure anyways food for thought Cheers

Check post #3 of this thread; http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...t=preventative

Tony

Ah! Thanks. I checked out the post as suggested. Looks like I have to remove the main shaft. Not really looking forward to that. Oh well, what has to be done has to be done.

Keep us updated as you progress please, at least one other forum member is currently facing the same repair so a first hand report will be much apprecieated.

Tony

Does the gear shifter stay in 5th position or does it jump straight out? Could be an issue with the interlock or detent?
Have you physically tried to shift the syncro ring to make sure it engages properly? If its too tight to slide it could be your problem. If the syncro isnt sliding far enough the synchro sleeve wont engage properly with the dog teeth.
There're a whole lot of checks you can do but its really just a process of elimination if you cant find any obvious signs of wear or oil contamination.
Let us know how you go

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aiKzo6

Does the gear shifter stay in 5th position or does it jump straight out? Could be an issue with the interlock or detent?
Have you physically tried to shift the syncro ring to make sure it engages properly? If its too tight to slide it could be your problem. If the syncro isnt sliding far enough the synchro sleeve wont engage properly with the dog teeth.
There're a whole lot of checks you can do but its really just a process of elimination if you cant find any obvious signs of wear or oil contamination.
Let us know how you go

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5th gear is engaging but there is no drive, just grinding noises. Check the link above, stripped 5th gear splines is common on early GU Patrols.

Tony

Quote:

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Originally Posted by YNOT

5th gear is engaging but there is no drive, just grinding noises. Check the link above, stripped 5th gear splines is common on early GU Patrols.

Tony

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Ahh i see it now. I couldnt open the link before for some reason. Cheers ;)

I have definately stripped the spline on the shaft.
Has anyone got a PDF with the parts breakdown and description list. I got one from a dealer but it is tiny and barely readable. When I get the gear off (which I will do tomorrow after work), I will post a pic of the gear and spline.

Edit: If you have one you can email it to me at work: james.wesley@tleng.com.au

OK. I have the 5th gear off the shaft now. Knackered. Some of the bearings fell to bits in my hand. It is very obvious where the issue is now. So I am ordering a full set of bearings and seals, a new 5th gear and main shaft. All up around $1300.00 including GST. Not to bad.

I have taken a few more pics that I will post tonight when I get home.

All parts ordered and are due to me on Thursday arvo.
I have now removed the bell housing and the front cover. This allows for the removal of the "C" clips that hold it all together. I haven't removed the clips yet, I thought it wiser to wait for the new shaft to arrive so I can remove, clean out, and replace it all in one hit. I will take pics as I go.
NOTE: I will say this as a recommendation; if you are doing this job yourself, take your time. Lay the parts out in the order you remove them and all facing the same direction.
I am a fitter (hydraulic) by trade and am quite competent at building "Power Take Offs" and other components, but as a rule I always place things in order. Take your time and be patient.

Well. Now it is mostly assembled. I had an issue with the syncro in 1st. For some reason it was stickie. Sorted now. Should be redady to fit back into the vehicle tomorrow. I have a head ache.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the godfather

Well. Now it is mostly assembled. I had an issue with the syncro in 1st. For some reason it was stickie. Sorted now. Should be redady to fit back into the vehicle tomorrow. I have a head ache.

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Top job mate! Not one for the feint hearted and hopefully sorted!!

replace gearbox front input shaft oil seal while box is out?? how is the clutch, throw out bearing etc etc

Seals are getting changed as well. They come in the rebuild kit. Clutch seems OK to me. Looks like it has been replaced along with the thrust bearing not that long ago. I have only had this vehicle for 4 months so hard to say. In any case, I am out of money so cant afford to change it.
I need to sell my motor bike to pay for this anyway. Been walking a little to close to that invisible financial line.

Some more pics of the job.
In order:
1. The main shaft stripped and set out on the bench.
2. The gear box housing after a good bit of cleaning and recoating.
3. All the shafts re-assembled and back in the box.
4. The new 5th gear assembly fitted. I broke the last two clips so I need to get them, a filer plug, and a magnetic drain plug.

So far so good. Bit of a head f*&% in places. But mostly it is quite logical.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the godfather

Some more pics of the job.
In order:
1. The main shaft stripped and set out on the bench.
2. The gear box housing after a good bit of cleaning and recoating.
3. All the shafts re-assembled and back in the box.
4. The new 5th gear assembly fitted. I broke the last two clips so I need to get them, a filer plug, and a magnetic drain plug.

So far so good. Bit of a head f*&% in places. But mostly it is quite logical.

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Top work mate - I'd love to have a lash at something like this, but can't afford for the rig to be off the road for a year!!! LOL

very impressive!

The other not so expensive part that people sometimes change along with the front oilseal is the spigot bearing.

Shame about the bike.

Well all has come to a grinding stop. I broke to "C" clips on the end of the main and sub shaft when I dismantled it. PArts wont arrive until Tuesday night. Until they arrive I can do nothing. Maybe clean the chassis and cross member.

Still impressed- well done!!

Bit of luck the gox will be back in on Saturday. I am sure much swearing wil be involved. So if you live in Hazelmere near TL Engineering, listen carefully and you will hear me.

Dam thing doesnt want to go back in.

I can hear you from Mandurah!! what seems to be the problem, can I be of any assistance?

The box is up in place and stop 15mm shy of being home. It is obviously through the clutch plate but not wanting to go into the spigot bearing. Frustration has set in and I have gone home (9pm). I will try again tomorrow. I know it is a matter of perfect alignment. 1st I will sleep in and have bacon and eggs for breakfast. I might add, the hardest part of this job is getting the box back in.

Ya not wrong, that is the hardest bit, did you replace the spiggot bearing/bush? have you got the bell housing square and parralell to the engine housing? Have you tried pulling it in with longer bolts altho it should just slide in with a bit of shaking up and down, did you line it up with some sort of clutch aligning tool? be carefull not to hang the box on the clutch plate as this will distort the clutch plate and cause it to grab and be US. Pull the box back and re check alignment with the spiggot tool, have you changed the in put shaft? did you try the spiggot bush (if it is new) on the input shaft" If it's the same input and same bearing, it should go in, but I spose you already know that.
have a spell and have a fresh go at it in the morning. cheers Rod.
EDIT, if you havn't replaced the clutch, it should all go back in, but you have dowells also that need to be lined up, and if you try pulling it in with longer bolts, be sure the dowells are lined up or you will crack the bell housing, use only hand tools and not a rattle gun. Talk to me in the morning, Rod.

It is in now. As ferret said. A spell was the trick. I rang my dad (who is a mechanical fitter) and he said to bolt the cross member in and mount the box loosely, then shack the f$%k out of the engine. This allowed it to move in a few more millimetres, then start the bolts with a light tension and shake it again. All this being done it slipped in nicely. Whoo hoo. Now it is all easy s@#t from here. BUt the easy s@#t will have to wait for a week. I have other things to deal with now. Namely pay some attention to my young fiance. I have been neglecting her these last few weekends. So it is off for a ride along the coast and a few drinks, while I still have my bike....

Glad it's all in mate, cheers.

well done cobber excellant achievement

Mmm. Gear oil is an issue. Cant get any GL4..WTF is with that. I will post a new thread on oils.

Sahfts are in, some re-wiring done. Oils in both boxes. Tomorrow will be the shifters and some exhaust bracketry. I will need to fabricate the brackets as the old ones are munted beyond repair. Fingers crossed I will drive it tomorrow.

Whoo-hoo! Yip yip yopee!

I drove it for the 1st time just a minute ago. All good. Just need to do some bracketry during the week for the exhaust and I will be happy as a pig in poo. Should be good to head home to the farm at easter and kill a couple of Porkers.

well done on getting the box of cogs out, fixing it, and getting it back in.

Legendary performance! Thanks for the tips on shaking the engine. I have used long bolts minus the heads, threaded into the bell housing to help line things up. Makes my frustration at getting a front axle in, pale into insignificance!!!!

Re the GL4 - they'll know what you are talking about at the shop. Decide what viscosity you want - for my old GQ it was Caltex VX-M or something like that per the factory manual - for the manual transmission. Aiming for easier gear changes from first to second on Brisbane winter mornings :-) I think it is 75 or 80 W - 90,

nice work there mate, top work.......

Hey! I have nearly finished paying for this rebuild. 3 weeks to go.

Neat job mate, glad it's all over eh?? enjoy.
Rod.