03 Y61 TB48 Throttle Body issues / part number and couple of questions

Hi Gent's
If anyone flicking past this thread that has ever had to replace their throttle body for an Auto TB48? (mines 2003 running LPG/PET) could you please shed some light?

A6119-VC21D seems to be the only part number I can come up with... The one on my rig is almost getting to the stage of being a paperweight, keeps tripping into limp mode now and again more than often with much use between but recently more often last trip into limp was Aus day on the beach out of all places after being parked up for the arvo of fishing so the car was back in the shop today for its service and to troubleshoot the throttle body and mech cant find any issues with cabling etc.. been looking at a couple on EBAY plus the listing on Patrolapart as no wrecker in Perth that the mech called has a second hand unit for sale so I'm looking at new one and feel better doing so as I know there wont be any issues for a while :).

Surely Patrolapart has it sussed?
http://patrolapart.com.au/product/ot...rottle-body-2/

Unsure with link 2 TB48DE ?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-PA...99438#shpCntId
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/THROTTLE-...item1e82b1d3ee
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New...-/120882239028

I hear Nissan like to charge $1300+? the + depending on the time/heat/wind direction of the day?

I would prefer to source one locally in Perth if the pricing is not far off (not with Nissan if the above line is true) however first and only call I was able to make this arvo to my most frequently used parts store where they normally have it sussed in a couple of seconds but I was asked for my VIN and I didn't have it on hand so one question is my VIN really required or is A6119-VC21D the one I need as its the same on all the years 09/2001 to current? Supplying the VIN is not an issue but cant spend a lot of time on the phone at work calling around.

If sourcing one locally drags out or price is way up and beyond I will more than likely look to PatrolApart, I have already sent a request on availability and shipping charges so waiting to hear back.

My other question's are has anyone ever had any luck fixing a throttle body with P1122 code? I tried searching the forums but can't seem to find any definitive answers other than people end up buying a new unit .. I'm obviously no mechanic but find it hard to believe that they are not serviceable after all i presume the fault its only in the TPS unit attached that you cant purchase separate? I am also curious if this is linked to a dead or spot or what feels like lag in the pedal when putting around on petrol however it doesn't happen on LPG, I previously assumed it was due the car being tuned more for the LPG? but the more i think of it the TPS could cause this symptom or am I getting my hopes up with the thoughts of a new unit fixing this too?

I did get a hold of one of those OBDII Bluetooth adapters and Car gauge pro on my phone tonight and it works fine although so far the ecu hasn't stored any fault codes but It was only a 10 min drive home after the service and I'm not holding my breath.

Thanks in advance legends!

Picked up a genuine TB today at a local parts store also requested a quote from nissan just for shits and giggles.. was $1530. I opened the sealed box (original tape and all) and it has some grey compound stuff around the edges of the butterfly/plate Is this normal?

Don't really want to book it in to the mech to do the work if something is amiss. Cheers.

Any pics?
What did you pay for it and where did you get it?

Hi 2strokespirit, Got it from a local parts store that I have been using for years... pretty dam sure they got it from possibly one of their suppliers Automotive Service Solutions http://www.efi.com.au/ as I overheard the guy on the phone either that or was just using their part number as reference... not sure how it all works in the parts network. Its in the exact same genuine labeled box as in the links above from Patrolapart and ebay and Paid $925.. could have got it cheaper from Patrolapart or ebay but I don't mind supporting local businesses.. it was there within an hour and prefer to have the opportunity to return something in person when it all goes to shit rather than post items back in suspense.

Picks attached. Cheers.

I suppose the grey compound was left after assembly.... I suppose some carb cleaner will clean it off....
Did the new part sort your problem?

Hi mate, was my thoughts aswell it's yet to be fitted I have to book it in next week.

Will make sure I report back, my fingers are crossed!

Hi all so the throttle body was swapped over and all was sweet... until just earlier this afternoon I went to jump in and whip down to the shops and BAM engine light and limp mode wouldn't want to type the words that came out of my mouth!! Plugged the ELM bluetooth adaptor in loaded the app and P1122 and a new code P0134 so looks like a possibility of $975 down the drain... before this the car had been sat at work all day and then drove maybe 40 to 50 Ks before parking it up, was running aircon and the temp was supposed to hit 40 or over this afternoon.. so any way I reset the codes and it came back... few resets later and it didn't come back so went for a 10 min drive shut it down and started it again and no codes... the new P1134 code is 02 sensor as shown in the pic... not sure where but recall reading that faulty 02 sensors can trip P1122 don't know why it would but I'm open for any ideas then again I hear 02 sensors are not cheap either ? Will try find time tomorrow to view the live data on the 02 sensors but last time I looked the voltages up and down reading correct and they were changing over from rich to lean as they should however many times they should in whatever time frame it was.

Only other thing for the p1122 code i can think of is maybe the throttle reset/relearn procedure was not completed with the new throttle body install and I've tried a manual reset with timed key turns that have been posted on the net but doesn't seem to work and thinking this really is a consult job?..

Anyone really familiar with the 4.8's in the northern suburbs of Perth ? Starting to think its time to get someone who really knows what they are looking at to get stuck into it. Would only really think of Nissan at a last resort $$ wise and the thought of them wanting to replace everything in sight scares me just like the throttle body I just had replaced that it appears it might not have needed replacing.

Getting bit frustrated with it at the moment... getting close to regretting buying this one.

G'day mate, Sorry to hear your 4.8 issues are not resolved. I had some issues with my O2 sensors a couple of years ago, the mechanic said that they were fine, but now and again they were fluctuating. I guess if the O2 sensors are feeding bogus info back to ECU it could trip codes to do with the TPS (just guessing, but sounds logical). I did have a TPS code come up once a few years ago (pre o2 sensor change) after a full day 4x4ing and it went into limp mode. But after turning it off for about 15 mins it was ok and never did it again. Anyway, I ended up getting new genuine O2 sensors from Nizzbits (Garry) and had them swapped over at the next service.

I'm not sure about a mechanic NOR that know 4.8 motors inside out. I take mine to Robson Bros in Welshpool for servicing these days, a bit of a hike for us NOR folk, but they've always done a good job. I've only had a couple of dealings (non-mechanical)with Joondalup 4x4 but they seem very helpful. Maybe go and have a chat with them as they are also a LPG specialist. Clive, who works there used to own a TB45 turbo, so may also know his way around a TB48???

Hope that's of some help.

Hi Bloggsy thanks for the reply I have been searching the net for o2 sensors none came up on nizzbits site, I will check again maybe I Wasn't Looking hard enough. Looks like patrolapart is out of stock as well, i did find walker ones showing in stock at Automotive Service Solutions for $149 and $145 but sounds like everyone suggests oem is the way to go. I had a little play with it yesterday after some research on the lpg processor as its connected into the sensor closest to the firewall, come to the conclusion that this is bank 2? As the code was bank 1 no activity and checking with the odb tool bank 1 is switching fine its bank 2 just sitting on .84 volts constant and my lpg processor light is fixed on rich doesn't alternate between lean and rich as it should.

Further investigation on the lpg processor it stated that the black - or gnd should never be connected to the body/chassis ground and only to the engine or ecu's gnd as this can cause a solid rich light and I found the wire leading to one of the cruise control bracket bolts... I did have hope and moved it over to one of the engine eng bolts with all the others on the back end/drivers side but no luck... I did then remove the lpg processor out of the circuit to eliminate the lpg processor as being an issue so running the car on petrol with the odb was reading 0.00 constant so now I have no bloody idea going from showing voltage with the processor to showing nothing without. Strange that the car hasn't reported any faults on this sensor and only once on bank 1.

Might end up going the aftermarket ones if i cant get ahold of genuine at a reasonable price as im on holiday in two weeks and money is tight, just hope it resolves the issue as this might be the deciding point to cut the losses and trade it in for something else when I get back..

Did you PM Mudski he may be able to get it in
for you if your not in a big rush for it

]Hi threedogs not yet I think I will but am wanting it sorted or at least the sensors replaced to eliminate them fairly soon.

I have been out playing with it again and /#€k me it looks like the sensors have been plugged in backwards found a post on another forum stating that the rear sensor bank 2 should be the wiring loom with a green and yellow stripe and the front the loom with blue and red stripe and mine were the other way around. Sensors are now showing some erratic measurements on petrol but still shows constant voltage on bank 2 so that sensor must be dud. Strange as swapping them over appears to have fixed this lagg/stumbling/surging issue when on petrol (only drove around the block).

Can anyone confirm the colour coding on the engine side of the wiring looms to the first and rear sensor ?

Have the battery disconnected at the moment will connect it back all up in a bit and have a look at the readings and go for a drive.

Crud just re-reading my post and sensor 2 cant be dud as the looms are swapped over duh... makes it even more confusing as to what's going on..

Ok so I can confirm running on Petrol is now better than it ever has been with the looms swapped over, before the Petrol was extremely rough on idle and have terrible lagg on accl until the sudden surge when I gave it more boot during the experienced "lagg" and now it is almost as smooth as on the lpg... as mentioned the readings on the sensors are now way out of whack:

Bank 1 before loom swap(I'm guessing this was on LPG as was taken a while ago)
Attachment 55628
Bank 2 before loom swap (I'm guessing this was on LPG as was taken a while ago)
Attachment 55629

and now after swapping the looms over :
Bank 1 Petrol
Attachment 55630
Bank 2 Petrol
Attachment 55631
after swapping the looms over :
Bank 1 LPG
Attachment 55632
Bank 2 LPG
Attachment 55633

Am I having too much trust in Car Gauge pro and the Bluetooth adapter (have tested on two different adapters) or should I be putting a new battery into my multimeter to bring it back to life and go old school?

I do seem to have conflicting info going on here, as per previous post's the comment off another forum explains bank 2 should be the loom with the green wire and bank 1 should be the blue well my LPG processor is wired into the loom with the blue wire this would mean its wired to the bank 1 loom... the conflicting info is as pic's show above running on LPG the bank 2 shows constant voltage with the scan tool before and after the loom swap and the LPG processor's led's are showing that its running permanently rich i must note this has not changed before or after the loom swap and i didn't physically change the lpg wiring it is is still in the same blue wire loom just plugged into the other sensor) if the statement with wire coding for bank 1 + 2 is correct why would the constant voltage be showing on bank two? i would expect to see the constant voltage on bank 1 like the LPG processor's led's are showing this would lead me to believe that the constantly lit LED on the lpg processor is not reflecting the sensors reading and this is an indicator for something else rather than the actual rich or lean voltage reading from the sensor or that the color coding for the bank one and bank two is the other way around and for some reason the car runs better on petrol with the bank one and bank two sensors backwards?

After typing all this out I found the instructions on the LPG processor once again this time on the pc and had a better look and there appears to be a few reasons why the rich light is permanently on however as far as i know other than the black wire being wired to the body before I just moved it I can't see that any of the other reasons why would be correct as it would mean it was installed incorrectly from the get go? maybe the LPG processor has shat it? hope it hasn't. https://www.gore-research.com.au/pdf...structions.pdf

Any input is appreciated guys especially if you can confirm the color coding on the looms for bank 1 and 2 and just so I have it correct the sensor closest to the fire wall is bank 2 and the sensor closest to the radiator is bank 1 or if I'm totally stuffing this up and need to start from scratch!



Cheers!

Hi mate, just had a look at mine.

bank 2 (closet to firewall) connects to the connector with the green/yellow wire.
bank 1 (closet to radiator) connects to the connector with the blue/ red wire.

hope this helps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bloggsy

Hi mate, just had a look at mine.

bank 2 (closet to firewall) connects to the connector with the green/yellow wire.
bank 1 (closet to radiator) connects to the connector with the blue/ red wire.

hope this helps.

---

Thanks mate this confirms that my looms where plugged in backwards, not good considering Ive been driving the car everyday racking the k's up like it since I purchased the car... wonder if this could have shortened the life of the sensors or even worse what else this could have done.

ve had to stop playing with it today will have to get back onto it tomorrow. Do appreciate it a lot!

Hi gents, just an update on my situation... swapped out 02 sensors and she is running like a dream on petrol and as good on the lpg as it has in a while. Ended up putting NTK ones in as they where available there and then and came in a lot cheaper than Nissan... real test will be how long they last and if they don't cut it they will be going back. If I can find the time on the weekend its hitting the sand to have a workout and see how it all goes and will also reset the counter on next fill to see if the K's on a tank improves. LPG processor LED's are now flicking over from rich to lean while holding revs unlike before however still holding the rich led at idle so a tune is called for. Next on the scope is this dam engine noise... going to need a couple of opinions of what it is as it better not be the shims as they where supposed to be done with the valves the invoice says they where anyway. Might leave this for a new thread when i can get it recorded and uploaded on the net.

Thanks for the help gents!

Good to hear!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bloggsy

Hi mate, just had a look at mine.

bank 2 (closet to firewall) connects to the connector with the green/yellow wire.
bank 1 (closet to radiator) connects to the connector with the blue/ red wire.

hope this helps.

---

Greetings from Venezuela, it’s not a fresh thread, but it’s a pleasure for me to tell you, that, at about 1am in the morning here, I’m coming back from a test drive and finally got to know my 08 lhd y61 tb48 grx. I’ve had it for a few months and apparently I misplaced the connectors at one moment while doing contact cleaning drill and it all was hell for me for unknown reason, I’ve been digging in blogs all over until just know that came to this and immediately went downstairs and swapped connectors and unleashed the beast…
I’ve had 06 D22 ZD30 for over 10 yrs now, and while I’m rebuilding engine on it, decided to put some of the family savings on the game and got the grx a few months ago last may. I’ve found several leads to the erratic black smoke out the tail, lack of power, high fuel consumption, but this was it! I can finally rest. It’s now time to find a fix for the fuel level meter gauges which are always reading full. I really need to fix this. Just today I went to the gas station and refueled 95lts and had only ran 300km around town. So now with the full tank I’ll take note again! Thanks a lot! I’m really happy for I take it as knowledge, I really love Nissan and will be keeping this one and also the pick up for a while. Have a great day!