Hi all . Does any one have photos of installation of dawes and needle valve on a crd motor 2008.
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Hi all . Does any one have photos of installation of dawes and needle valve on a crd motor 2008.
Are you looking for an installation diagram or just where to position the dawes/needle valve?
Pages and pages written on this subject with great diagrams as well, have a search for anything written by Chaz Yellowfoot [guru]
Between Chaz and Rumjas I dont think there is anything left to learn. have a search and see what you can find
http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manua...Controller.htm
Have a read of this ,plus it has a diagram on how to set it up
Its identical to the Di engine apart from the location on the vacuum supply port. The Di motor, it's ontop of the from section of the motor, under the intercooler. The CRDs is on the upper left side of the motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by ron1
- Block all three ports on the control solenoid which is mounted next to the air box and under the intake pipe at teh air box.
- From the vacuum supply, run the hose to the small T piece supplied with the Dawes.
- Then from that T, run the hose to one side of the needle valve. Doesn't matter which side.
- Then run another hose from the other side of the needle valve to the air resonator box. Which is located next to the control solenoid. It has a single port on it...
- Thats the needle valve done. Now the Dawes...
- From the small T the last port goes to the top of the Dawes. Any port of the two is fine.
- The other port that is vacant goes to the turbo VNT diaphragm.
- The last, larger port on the Dawes goes to your intake system to pickup boost pressure. You will need to either, drill and tap one of the steel intercooler pipes, drill and weld a threaded bung into the pipe, T into the boost pickup for your boost gauge or use one of those boost gauge adaptors sold on eBay.
Adjusting is an other story....
- Block all three ports on the control solenoid which is mounted next to the air box and under the intake pipe at teh air box.
Adjusting is an other story....[/QUOTE]
So Mudski, I have a 99% complete dual dawes setup--need to connect 3 hoses and I am done. As best I can figure out (with help from Chaz Yellow foot) there are four variables for tuning:
Needle valve--start closed and open until actuator arm lifts, then close until it just touches stop screw
TPS voltage to switch between maximum boost levels on the dawes--currently on at 1.6v and off at 1.0v
Dawes "pop off" pressure-- Low at 10--12 psi, high at 18 psi. I preset these with a pressure gauge and external air supply. I will confirm each separately on the road.
I am guessing I could play with boost levels, and the voltage of switch-over, but not much else.
Am I over simplifying the process????
Is blocking the solenoid ports just to keep crud out???
Ron1
Check your Private messages
So Mudski, I have a 99% complete dual dawes setup--need to connect 3 hoses and I am done. As best I can figure out (with help from Chaz Yellow foot) there are four variables for tuning:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Gary
Needle valve--start closed and open until actuator arm lifts, then close until it just touches stop screw
TPS voltage to switch between maximum boost levels on the dawes--currently on at 1.6v and off at 1.0v
Dawes "pop off" pressure-- Low at 10--12 psi, high at 18 psi. I preset these with a pressure gauge and external air supply. I will confirm each separately on the road.
I am guessing I could play with boost levels, and the voltage of switch-over, but not much else.
Am I over simplifying the process????
Is blocking the solenoid ports just to keep crud out???[/QUOTE]
I cant help you much on the dual dawes via the tps. I have never attempted to do this... As for blocking the three ports. You are correct.
Attachment 54636
I have a quick question regarding the setup of the needle valve. I have set mine up without a connection to the Air Filter Resonator and it works well. What are the consequences if any of not having a connection there?
Chaz notes the reason for the connection as: "A clean air supply is needed to reduce the vacuum signal and its taken from the Air Filter Resonator, which is the same source as the ECU Solenoid Valve uses from "Port C"."
If the vacuum signal is not reduced does it cause more wear on the dawes and needle valves? I was told by the turbo place where I purchased the dawes to just bypass the whole lot and like I said it works fine.
Not true mate. What will wear out in the needle valve? Nothing. Theres no moving parts. The Dawes has a spring and a ball made of steel. It would take years before the brass housing would wear out too where the ball sits...the spring does lose its compression over time but thats just wear and tear. Easily replaced and cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Trol
You don't have to plumb it into the air reso box, it will work still but if you were to NOT plumb it there I would put a small inline filter of something on the end of the line so it filters the air its sucking in. You can "feed" this same line with boost pressure. But you will need to re adjust the entire system. Some people have reported some power gains doing this. I did it, felt nothing, but I was not used to how my boost gauge was reacting and the car performing differently so I went back. I'm experimenting now with different weight balls in the dawes. I'm surprised on the differences so far in just changing the ball weight.
X2 with mudski...
No needle valve then it is a closed loop and no problem but if you use a Needle Valve I would stick with Chaz and plumb your atmospheric line from after the air filter.
If you don't it means that the Vac pump is open to unfoltered air and also every time the Dawes operates it will be porting unfiltered air and therefore any contaminants into the Turbo Actuator Diaphragm and the Dawes itself.
As suggested a good quality filter on the atmospheric side of the needle valve will also do the job
Might not be a biggee to 90% of vehicles but in a Patrol that runs in dirt, dust, mud, water etc I would def use one
I suspect the Air FILTER Resonator is used to provide a clean air supply, not much else.
The newer Dawes have a choice of ceramic balls for very small $$ extra.
BTW I have the Dual Dawes setup complete, and it appears to work as advertised. Boost pressure limits are lower than what I set off-line but that is a fairly simple adjustment (or not!!)
I disabled the high valve to check low maximum, then the low--not much to see there.
We shall see!!!
Thanks Mudski. I might have a look for a filter today. If I can't find one and I connect to the resonator, does that mean I have to readjust the needle valve. It looks like I am running a closed system at the moment where the vacuum pump adjusts the negative pressure (vacuum) in the system. If I plumb into the air box then I assume I will need to readjust the whole system to limit the amount of fresh air coming in (close needle valve)?
Before I bought the needle valve I just ran the dawes valve on its own and it worked well (no limp mode). I don't think I have adjusted the needle valve much (mostly open) at the moment to get the turbo to spool up quickly.
So your running a needle valve? Sorry I'm a bit confused on how you have plumbed up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Trol
@mudskiQuote:
Originally Posted by Rock Trol
Mate because im using my scan gauge to monitor boost, do I just put the dawes in line from the actuator (Ball end facing actuator) then the top to the vac line
No the ball end is the pressure, or boost side. So this end need to pickup boost pressure from the motor. The vac side, with the two small barbs basically goes inline on the line to the actuator. pm me your email and I'll shoot you the destructions again.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
Just think of the ball valve as a "tap". When the boost pressure (red line in diagram) gets to your preset level it pushes the ball out off the seat and some of the boost is then routed to the actuator (past the ball) and reduces the vacuum. The actuator then closes - in turn reducing your boost. Therefore your boost can't go any higher than what the spring in the ball valve is set to. It's basically a loop that disappears up its own bum!Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
Righto get that. But if im not using a boost gauge (because i'm using a scan gauge) where do i pick that boost up from now? Do i need to still "tap" into the inlet pipe to the intercooler, or is there another line/hose. I was trying to avoid having to drill and tap into my I/C pipeQuote:
Originally Posted by BillsGU
Buy a boost adaptor its the quickest and neatest way to do it and wont break the bank
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Pa...4AAOSw5cNYLPmR
Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
And wheres that sit mate? Got a pic
sits directly under your OE boost sensor on the front of your IC
Check the link it has a pic there
Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Exactly how I ran boost tap on my CRD. It just sandwiches between the factory sensor and the intercooler. Simple and effective.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=70999&stc=1
Ordered Monday, should be here by FridayQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Much neater as you can see with Erics installation, and easy as to so its a win win IMOQuote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
@mudski If the boost goes below 10psi cruising at 100k do i close the needle slowly till it doesnt?
Yeah mate. Closing the air supply will rise the cruise boost levels, aswell as spool up.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058