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Ok guys this one has me stumped a little.
I'm using coolent. Around 1 to 1 1/2 liters per 5000k.
So I can see no signs of leaks. It runs fine, no white smoke etc.
And to really throw you off it drains the over flow first dry, and there are no bubbles present in the radiator when running.
I have a new radiator cap on it also.
So experts. What am I looking for?? Its got me stumped.
Had the same problem when I first got the Old Trol, and it turned out to be a couple of weeping core to tank joins where the the radiator had been flexing. The heat was evaporating the water and leaving a very fine white substance, which was hard to see.
I have a similar problem in I lose 1 litre of fluid.
car runs fine even on hot days. so Ill look for signs of a leak somewhere
cant smell coolant or anything.
Years ago on an old Fairmont, I had a couple of radiator hoses that developed pin holes along most of their length. (Cheap after market ones, can't remember the brand).
I might put some food dye in and see if I can see the leak that way,
I would say its harmless to the system
I wouldn't, in case it does react with something.
I'm no expert on cooling systems but it can only be going one of two places and that is a pretty big loss when you know it isn't blowing it over.
It can only be leaking to atmosphere (not so bad, just gotta find it) or out the exhaust (oh shit).
If it is leaking out and evaporating it leaves a noticeable whitish residue as Mudnut says.
I wouldn't use food dye 'cause if you haven't spotted the coolant you prob won't see the dye anyway
You can rule out heater core etc as that much coolant leaking into the cabin you would notice by now.
If it is going out the exhaust then there must be a gasket issue or hairline crack opening up somewhere
I guess the volume being loss wouldn't be showing as white smoke would it.
I'm confident the hoses are fine as they are only 15 thou old.
And yea heater core was out at the same time when I did the big strip down. Didn't notice any leaks there.
So would a compression test show any leaks in head gasket??
Afaik a compression test would just show that the compression was down if it was a big enough leak and not opening up once warm. A leak down test would help. Its kind of a tricky thing to find reallyQuote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Ok. So I guess atm it's a wait for further development is it??Quote:
Originally Posted by lhurley
could test for coolant in the exhaust?
No mate don't wait, take it to a radiator place or a mechanic with a pressure gauge that fits on the radiator cap hole and pump it up and wait to see if it leaks down. If you can't find the leak like that then it's internal which is not what you want. Get it checked ASAP so it doesn't become something too big.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Yea good call mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stropp
X2 westy do the bleed down test it may be a minute crack in the bottom end of the bore .If it leaks down take the head off and see if 1 cylinder is cleaner than the rest after a run to get the block hot thinking diesel here .
A couple of things that won't cost you money first.
Get under with a bright torch. The coolant will be either green drops that don't dry up, or as mentioned, white residual that might be power when touched. Try and look wherever the coolant goes - turbo, joins in the hoses, the closer joins in the exhaust. Under the coolant overflow bottle.
Fill it up again, and see if the level goes down even if you don't drive the vehicle. How soon does it disappear after driving?
I went over it this morning.Quote:
Originally Posted by P4trol
Started it up and nothing.
I did get inconsistent bubbles threw the cap which tapered off to basically nothing after a minute or 2 so I'll assume that was an air lock.
It used another 1ltr again in 300k. So it's either developed when I was down Beachport new years, or its got worse quick.
bugger i would hazard a guess at the head gasket :(
Are you able to to the same test as I did on my RB30?
That is to take off the fan belt, to stop creating bubbles due to cavitation.
Then have a half bottle at a bleed point near the head.
With the radiator cap on you watch as combustion gasses are forced out of the hole when the engine is revved.
The RB30 can be idled for 5 to 6 minutes from cold without the pump
But because yours is a diesel is that sort of a test not possible or not recommended?
Wouldn't any of those bubbles just come up threw the bleed line to top of radiator from the thermostat housing??Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
A mate of mine told me to do the test that way as the Rb30 has a bleed point at the housing at the top of the engine. That is why I asked if yours is the same and if it is recommended. Sorry for the late reply.
any luck yet Kallen ??
Well no. Because it doesn't seem to be using any atm.
So I'm stumped. I haven't done any radiator work since early last year so I'm doubt full it was an air lock. But maybe.
I'll continue to watch it and see how it goes.
I did notice however the top mount has parted from the core so I'll have to re solder that before it rubs threw
re solder it first then maybe do the coke bottle on a hill trick.
Do a radiator pressure test. That will tell you right away if you have a leak or not. If you have a leak - just make sure you keep the pressure up and look around and you should eventually find it. If it is going internal you should also have exhaust in the radiator. It may show up as bubbles and it should show up on a TK test.
http://www.warrenandbrown.com.au/pre...-head-check/54
Also check that the lip of the radiator filler is sealing as it will suck air in from there instead of coolant from the overflow. I had to use a block and a bit of fine wet'n'dry to make it level. Also check the locking flanges under the lip aren't worn.
It's draining the over flow first. And had a new cap on not long ago.
Yea will get a test done soon
Lost coolant is like a lost tv remote. It's either down behind the lounge or it's in the last place you look
Lol. To right. And at 40 degrees today it can wait lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
Ssooooooooooooooo......
It still hasn't used a drop since.
I am truly baffled.
Car gets to running temp a few times each week on my 30k drive to work. So if any cracks are there surly they would open under these conditions.
And to drain the overflow first leads me to believe it's not so much a leak or hole in the system.
Yet to have it tested yet due to not needing to top up.
On LPG?
I had similar problem. I eventually found the house connectors on a joiner/splitter installed to route got water to the LPG converter was leaking onto the exhaust manifold.
Only happened under high temps, I could smell it, but couldn't see a thing. The system passed all the pressure tests and nobody was of any help.
Eventually I actually witnessed the spray, most of it dropped to the ground from behind the engine (my welsh plug theory) and the exhaust.
I replaced the joiner and hoses, haven't lost a drop since. I did panic over when parking on a hill to see several litres of coolant in the ground, still not sure where that was hiding but the radiator didn't lose a drop.
Check the entire system. Every joint, clamp, plug.