I need good Auto Electrician or Experience Person In BrownsPlains 4118 QLD Pleasehelp

Hi All

I am a new owner of a Nisan Patrol DX 2010 i must say i loved it until it lasted.

My story. i decided to swap over interior with the ST Patrol, I have fitted all interior wired the Doors and Driver Window and found my car wont start anymore.(All Lights on Dash are ok but the starter motor wont Crank?) I am not sure what i have done i have checked all common thigs and at the moments is sitting with my lower dash apart.

I need an expereience person to finish the Job. If you are around Browns Plains, Logan 4118 or If you know someone i can contact please let me know.

Car info
Nissan Patrol 2010 DX Auto

Hi mate,

Was the vehicle the harness came out of a manual or auto?

Also it not a good idea to post your mobile number. Better off using PMs.

Cheers Rodney

HI Rodney

Im pretty sure it was a ST Auto. All the Plastics were included that fits the auto gearbox. The seats were swapped out too.

I am thinking it maybe has something to do with the Nissan Nats system. Does the Nats imobiliser cut power to Starter or will i see something before that point on my dash that will give me a hint?

I had planned to install a Car alarm with remote start and connect the power window passanger and rear doors. If someone is interested and wanted to make some extra cash and maybe point me in the right direction with the starting problem Im happy to pay someone for there time.

Thanks for your advice.

NATs doesn't control the starter motor. I would double check that you have plugged in all connectors especially the park neutral switch, park neutral switch relay and the harnesses that runs down to the auto (main connectors are at the end of the fuse box under the bonnet). Does the reverse light work?

Also check that fuse 12 in the fuse box inside the vehicle isn't blown.

Hi

I checked what you said and everything seems fine all connectors seem good.
I did find a relay on the left passanger side that i was not sure about. I will attach a photo.
Reverse lights worked i could feel almost all the relays switching ok.
I really am stumped.

If you can shed some light on this blue relay. I think it has something to do with Sub tank??Attachment 50837

The electric window relay is normally mounted there. It looks like that relay has been bypassed. Have you got the electric windows working yet? do they only work when the ignition is turned on?

I'll have a looking at the wiring diagram for the starting and see what I can come up with. Do you know what engine was fitted to the donor vehicle?

Wow, that's dedication!!! I would have sold my DX & bought an ST personally.

Was the donor car in an accident? I presume it would have been since a 2010 ST interior wouldn't ordinarily become available unless a wrecker bought a written off car. The reason for my saying this is that if you know it was in an accident & you know where the damage was, concentrate on that area & make sure the harness is in good order & now broken or exposed wires. Obviously you know your way around a car to have gone this far. A test light & a multi-meter will get you far if you have a workshop manual. Maybe check the coolant temp sensors & make sure they're the same on both cars. I know this can stop a patrol from starting. You need to make sure EVERYTHING is compatible. It's NEVER a case of unplug & plug in & off you go.

Sorry if that sounds a little critical. Start with the basics. More often than not, electrical issues aren't as complicated as we think. Check for power at the ign switch & at the starter & starter solenoid if one is fitted. It's a process of elimination.

Here's the wiring diagram. This is working on both vehicles being autos with ZD30 engines.

Start by checking the feeds at the park neutral relay. This relay is found on the drivers side inner guard beside the battery. It' a large blue relay and is mounted to a bracket under the black convoluted tube that runs from the battery to the inner guard.

Disconnect both plugs from the relay. With a test light check the following

The large black wire with a yellow trace should have power when you turn the key to start.

The smaller black wire with a red trace should have power with the ignition turned on auto in park or neutral.

Check that the small black wire is connected to earth.

The large white wire with the red trace is connected directly to the starter motor. If you put power down this wire the starter motor should engage. Make sure the auto is in park first.

Hi Sharky1

Yeh i know i dont know what i was thinking with the interior i think it was the auto windows that pushed me. Only reason why i got the DX was the 4 inch lift 33 muddies 3 inch exhust and for 13k i thought it was a bargain.
Now to get my story strait when the looms were swapped and it was a 2010 auto ST thats all i know about the Donor car.
Only doors were changed mainly looms and motor pretty much the rest was just plug and play i thought :)
I had central locking and driver window working and was driving around but had my A/T Temp light on and i thought to my knowledge All windows is controlled from this main driver door switch plus a few extra relays to get the rest working so it was at this point when i looked into connecting the rest the car wont start but before it was running good except A/T light.
Yeh i have a tester light and multi metre but there is only so far a person's hand can extend to get readings from the bonnet :)
Ive called a local Auto Sparky hopefuly he will be here tomorrow im going to get him to connect the rest of wiring + Alarm and starting problem so should be good as new :) there's only so far dodgy clips and electrical tape can take you.
Ill keep you guys posted i got a feeling ill be kicking my self why it doesnt start my bonnets not down or something stupid like that. I would also love the service manual do you think there would be a chance if the admin guys give it to me if i request it?
Thanks for the effort.

HI Yendor

I have tried what you said and found the following.

At the blue relay the large black wire has no power. The smaller black/red wire is working ok.
Now when i have ignition on and i jump the wire from + to the white/red going to starter my car starts fine. Now my question is under the terminal block beside the starter motor connector and fuse can it melt or cause any other problems under there.? I found that the blue 60 or 80 fuses i cant pull out like its melted or fused under there do you think im on the right track?

Im going to peel all tape and plastic cable protection away from Battery + and do some continuity checks under there see if i can find a loose wire or break. I feel like im almost back to how i had it.

Please let me know if you have any other ideas.

Many many thnaks.

If you don't have power in the large black wire with the yellow trace when the ignition key is turned to start your problem is between the relay,ignition switch or fuse J.

Start by checking fuse J it's a 30 amp fuse in the fuse box under the bonnet, make sure it's not blown or missing. On the fuse cover is labelled as "F/L 30A IGN SW".

If this fuse is ok you will need to check if the large black wire with the yellow trace has power when ignition switch is turned to start at the back of the ignition switch.

No I don't think you have a problem with melted fuses they can be tight to remove. The 100 amp fuses are bolted in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ilcospatrol

I would also love the service manual do you think there would be a chance if the admin guys give it to me if i request it?
Thanks for the effort.

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If your after the manual, just post up an intro about urself and your rig ( sorta like your first post here ) in the introduction section ( link can be found in my signature ) then go welcome in 19 new members in the introduction section then you will have access 2 download all the manuals that we have :)

Cheers

Toddie

HI All

Ok i have worked my starting problem out and i must say i was standing red faced and a very shameful dash board reinstall. After 3-4 Auto Electricians all busy and 1 week of my car sitting trying to work out what i did.

Origianly i wanted to do a service and fit the rest of my windows key word SERVICE. When i checked my oil and i only found 1-2mm on my dip stick. After 1l oil went in it starts perfect.... I couldnt believe it, The 4x4 was parked sideways on a hill so i guess it registered low oil or no oil..... OK stop laughing a trap for the young players :)

OK now back to my original plan WINDOWS.

Thanks everyone for your help if i see other Patrol drivers laughing at me one day i will know exactly why.

Thanks again

ROFL... nothing worse than finding a fault you made yourself.
Been there done that more times than I can count
Don't worry about anyone else cobber, as long as you can laugh at yourself all is pretty right with the world... but your correct... if any of us spot you we will point and laugh.

Hi Again

I need some advise on which way to go. After connecting the passenger power window and having a look at the wire harness i found the previous owner has tried to tap into what im guessing blinker break wires for trailer plug im guessing but this guy butchered this wiring. After checking all dash and both sides running down towards back wire loom i can see a lot of cut wires and joined together looped im still not sure what he was thinking.

Now my main concern is A/t Temp light and check engine light. After checking Auto ECU this guy has tried to tap into this harness as well. All earth were joined together looks like his jumped wires from the black main harness plug under the heater aircon control under the radio. Auto ecu has sensor or solinoid coloured wires which look similar to what im guessing are the door switch wires alot of black/red gree/yellow wires cut looped. It starts under glove box, under passanger seat there is alot of looped wires and im not sure if it originally went towards the plug through the chassis or was connected towards the back door and barn door?

My symptoms Auto gear box when in Drive 1st gear is normal i think 2nd is good too when chaging into 3rd on some days can slip a fair bit and i have to backoff for it to grab and continue in 3rd. But then i get different symptoms were when i select drive it thinks its N im guessing, and other days when slidng gear lever to 2nd it thinks it N im guessing and wont select any gear and continue into drive then it continues to 2nd and 3rd good with barely any slip gets to 100km fairly easy??? some days wont get into 3rd and i have to get home with 2nd gear can be embarrassing at times in peak hour.

What i notice when in reverse with my break pedal pressed my right blinker is constanly on at this point i get my SUB TANK light on. So i removed rear lights and cut what ever this guy looped or tried to connect and it sorta fixed that but i havent connected light back in.

Now my question do you think i should look into another wire harness to connect or do you think its worth getting the Patrol Auto Stand alone after market ECU with pretty much everything you need not to use original harness? Or will this then mess with the Engine control Module and crank or idle sensors or even worse earthing issues?

Im scratching my head at the moment and dont know if i should call auto sparky or gearbox specialist or get new wire harness and try myself.

Any feed back would be appreciated im really trying to fix this quickly ive had this 4x4 for a couple months and im not confident in taking camping or offroad with all these problems. There is only so many questions you can answer with my 5yo son hanging around me while i try match plugs to wires..... What is this dad what is that, when we goin to beach dad and can this forby connect to our camper trailer or what questions that you can tolerate. :)

Im going to give it 1 more day in trying to work out these loops and jumped wires before i snap and make it a full strip down panel beat rust remove job :)