So I now have EGT and boost gauges. What is the REASONABLE range for EGT, and when does it become problematic?
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So I now have EGT and boost gauges. What is the REASONABLE range for EGT, and when does it become problematic?
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500c and over I would start backing off big time
CRD can tolerate slightly higher temps
x2 on the back off at 500C. As threedogs said, the EGT's with a complete factory boost controlled CRD would scare some people, but "supposedly" they are built to handle it.
Thanks for that. I actually have the extra warning light set to come on at 500c, as well as the gauge warning light, so that will do.
hey guys. I was just wondering where you bought your egt and boost gauge kits from? I have seen some cheap ones going on ebay, but not sure if the quality is there that I will need for them to last.
Also, should I go digital or analogue gauge?
any help would be appreciated
Cheers
Im not a fan of digital as they tend to flicker a bit IMO.
VDO make a good guage, but any of the known brands would work
thanks threedogs. yeah, I was looking at getting a analogue gauges and mounting them on my dash. i'll see if they get in the way. if they do i'll fork out the dough to get an A-pillar mount I reckon
My CRD sits around 380-450 whilst driving 100km/hr at 10psi. The probe is post turbo in the dump pipe. Driving up the SE freeway out of Adelaide, it quickly climbed to 650-680 whilst doing 80km/hr - Overdrive off. Soon as I crest the top, it plummets back down.
I thought this was fairly normal behaviour?? perhaps not! :eek: I have DP Chip and 2.75" exhaust
If your after a quality EGT gauge check out this mob http://www.thermoguard.com.au/ can't buy them in the shops but order direct from them. Had one in my GQ 4-5 years now and never missed a beat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Golioth
thanks for that. i'll check it out now. cheers
So I'm in the market now for an EGT gauge but just wondering everyone's thoughts on digital vs needle gauge?
This is the very issue of the factory turbo control. My car had exact same temps prior to manual boost . Now, sits 250-350 normal driving, 400 uphill, or if I push it MAX I will see is 450.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newtz
My gauges came from Auber.com in the US. Gauges are around $80 each, plus EGT probe and boost sensor. PM to me if you need specifics.Quote:
Originally Posted by Golioth
Speaking as an instrument engineering type person and in a very general sense the application usually decides which is best.Quote:
Originally Posted by harrymoto
Analog is best for:
Rate of change or sweep of a changing parameter
IE most tacho's are analog because the eye will instantly recognise how fast the RPM is changing or approaching redline.
Panel scanning for "normal operating parameters"
IE on an aircraft the analog instruments are fitted so that all the needles are, say, vertical if the reading is in the normal operating range. That means if a needle moves to say 11 or 1 o'clock it stands out immediately
Digital is preferred for:
Settings and logging
IE variable range but setting a particular level within the range
Resolution and size
IE showing quite a high resolution of a level like, say, 88 KPH in a small display
Now, either display will do both jobs so it is mainly to do with the ease of interpreting what is happening.
That is essentially a question of "Can I glance at the instrument or indeed will it attract my attention if it is out of the norm or do I actually have to dwell and read the display?"
A high resolution analog gauge also usually means large dia of the dial with lots of increments
A digital display will often have an analog bar graph or LED's or whatever to attract attention
Sooo, IMHO, preferred displays would be
Analog - Tacho, EGT, Coolant IE how fast the needle moves due to the changing parameter is more relevant
Digital - Speed, Trip Computer, Radio Freq, IE accurate resolution of the parameter is more relevant
I can certainly see the sense in what you are saying. One advantage of digital is the ability to trigger an alarm and record results. Any idea if digital is any more or less reliable? Are the sensors different?
Hi Newtz,Quote:
Originally Posted by Newtz
We have different vehicles, but as a comparison my egt gauge doesn't get much higher than 400 degrees going up the freeway at the same speed as yourself. Would you be carrying a load or towing?
Gary
Mine hit a max of 387c towing a camper on the weekend, at 100ks it floated around 250-300c. Not towing it's usually low 200's on the highway.
Supplier update for Gauges (etc)
I have completed install of EGT and Boost gauges, as well as dual battery monitoring. I am using Digital (Auberins.com) gauges, no flicker, easy to program and I can trigger an alarm for high or low readings. I can check the latest high and low readings since last look The company has been EXTREMELY helpful with advice and trouble shooting. A big tick from me.
I have received the Dawes dual system components (not installed yet) but found Darren Dawes (dawes-devices.com--also threebarracing.com) both helpful and knowledgable. Very quick to respond to questions. Another big tick.
I have a similar setup myself mine being a steinbauer but I can get over 600 pushing into it I reckon 700 not out of the question either. I think I need to have a go at this dawes and needle. but hodge is your I/c standard as that's my next upgrade.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
I have an aftermarket Dieselsmart exchange I/C unit. I replaced mine because it was starting to leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin07
My dawes / needle setup was in the car before the intercooler was replaced, and that helped the EGT's a lot. New intercooler did margionally drop the EGT's all around, especially how fast it cools down, after you've backed off the throttle. My next bolt on, is definitely the larger scoop. That will help spread the incoming air across the whole surface of the I/C.
A load of camping gear, but only two people. Not really a massive weight. I guess it's hard to compare with probe positions etc. My probe is probably a little off centre as I had to get a coupler in place to fit it and it doesn't go in far enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryXCY
O.K.educate me it seems you guys are scared of exceeding 500 deg . is that c or f and why so low when driving road trains we played 1200 to 1400 f. I think; were they measured differtantly .
Temperatures over 500 degrees Centigrade (continuous) EGT measured post turbo is considered a rule of thumb as risky temps for ZD30's.
No totally black and white technical reason for 500 Deg and certainly factory settings will regularly exceed that.
Post turbo temps are not a very good guide to peak combustion temps as you kind of have to guesstimate what the delta T is for the temperature loss over the Turbo. Pre Turbo is definitely the way to go but a tougher installation of the probe so not many bother.
1200 to 1400 farenheit in a truck engine doesn't sound outrageous to me.