Well I've had a electronic window issue for some time now, 10 months.
Always thought it was possibly my fault with a farked wire somewhere.
Well I've just found a possibility for the cause. Well.. It's looking pretty positive...
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Well I've had a electronic window issue for some time now, 10 months.
Always thought it was possibly my fault with a farked wire somewhere.
Well I've just found a possibility for the cause. Well.. It's looking pretty positive...
looks like it had a drink of muddy water
Not much idea what I’m looking at, other than it being a PCB from somewhere in the Patrol ....... but it sure doesn’t look too healthy.
So GQ’s had such electronics then, I thought they may have been too old for such modern stuff. <Tongue in cheek> :D
Its the drivers side power window amp module cuppa, controls the auto up and down feature
yeh it would be farked now, for some reason they don't like muddy water *L*
200 bucks for a new one from patrolapart
what he said ^^^^^^
Yea. So I've found out.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
And yea nearly fell over when they told me a price!!!! Fark!!!
Ok .... the questions that’ve gotta be asked.
Where does module live in the vehicle ....... & more to the point how come it’s taken so long to find it! LOL. The window drama has been going on for what... 12 months plus now? Do you have a manual winder as well, or have you just been enjoying the breeze?
It lives in here with the switchesQuote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
Attachment 49464
Keep the old one, Kallen. It may only be a couple of components that are shot.
I've always had a suspicious feeling it was this module, but there a pita to pull apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
While taking the door down yesterday I noticed rust water stains coming from it. So pulled it apart and yea.
No good..
From what I can see the main coil contact running along the board is stuffed..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
There is some corrosion on it also but unsure of the extent.
I can clean it down, what woukd be best?
contact cleaner in a spray can from auto shop mate works wonders
It may come good with the cleaner, but moisture penetrates some components and any joints with dissimilar metals corrode. It may do good to clean the space between any circuits on the board, to make sure there is no tracking between them. Maybe redo any moisture affected the solder joints. Most of the components are cheap, but if the relays are stuffed, then that's where the big money is.
Hit it with a big hammer, that'll did it
Ok. Will try source the farked part.. But have just noticed this..
Looks burnt..
Attachment 49470
And what is this called??
Attachment 49471
The first one looks like a choke, the second is a relay. I think the wreckers are the go. The moisture has done its worst, Kallen. Just out of curiosity, What part number is that chip? I have kept a few over the years, so I may have one in the shed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWG6nd7HeBc
This module looks vey similar to yours, Kallen. You may be able to source a cheaper one for parts, or it may just work.
The number on the pc board is ET1571. Hope that helps.
Well I got creative yesterday arvo and fixed the coil..
Now this has me stumped.
I plugged it back in and both coils are working, but only on the drivers window. No windows are winding but the coils are working..
The rest of the board looks good, apart from that burnt wire, but if the coils are working does this mean it's ok??
Also thanks for the vid MN.. They are the same unit. That'll help broaden the serch
Interesting I'm gonna go have a look at mine. Does this control all the windows in the car?
Now that you have the relays clicking on and off, you need to check that there is a circuit made across the main contacts. Have you got a multimeter, Kallen?
No the amp module is only for the auto up and down feature on the drivers window and has no effect on any of the other windows.Quote:
Originally Posted by gubigfish
So the rest of the window controls is there a similar system for that?
How come when one door is disconnected none work??Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
And the amp unit clicks in even when moving the master into the manual up down?
Im a bit lost lol. I have found a second hand one for $70 so I think I'll just try that..
I would have to check on mine, but from my understanding of what I've read over the years was the amp had nothing 2 do with the other windows.
Will try and check mine 2morrow
All the wiring for the electric windows goes through the drivers door, thats why when you un-plug the drivers door switch all windows stop working.
So this amp unit could be the reason why none of the windows work you think??Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex
I've got a list of other things that could use the $100 so don't really wanted fork out for one and still be no better off..
If the unit is only for an automatic function, can it be by-passed?
Looking at the wiring diagram the amp only controls the diver side door window only (for both manual and auto up). With the amp disconnected and the front driver side switch connected all other windows should work.
Well I can safety say that ain't happening lol.
No this is the weird thing coz I know they work.
After the high country trip they work. Yea I know, great timing.
I have got another suspicion though and that's the lock button.
Both times the failures have happened it's been using the lock button to stop the kids playing with them.
Might investigate this
Well my apologies..
All windows but drivers are working... I swear this wasn't the case the other day but will monitor. I'm still suspect of the lock button but it could have been pure coincidence that the amp unit failed at that time.
So now it's just a wait for the new amp unit.
I have done some research and it seems pretty much any nissan around the 1990-95 era ran these modules.
I have a mate who has a 180sx module so for $50 delivered its a but load cheaper than new..
I will prevail with this pita
Kallen
I`ve had a problem with the drivers window on and off for some time then the other day I pulled module apart but all was ok so I pulled the switch apart and there was the problem, just dirty so a clean up and all is ok now
Yea have pulled the switches apart some time back and cleaned all the contacts.Quote:
Originally Posted by pearcey
Will wait till I get the amp unit and see how we go
Flex, could yourself or another electrician look at the drawings and see if the drivers can bypass the amp?Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex
Bought 1 and was a dud. Sent it back but in all honesty I don't care if it's not auto, I just want it working..
Looking at the window diagram it doesn't look easy to remove the window amp. Can't even tell if the drivers side switch can handle the current of the electric motor (On the GU Patrol the drivers window switch is a low current type). What was wrong with the new one you bought?
Dunno. Didn't work so sent it back under warranty..
So how are the rest wired. If they pypass the amp are they still triggering a relay somewhere?
I've removed the amp and all the other windows work from drivers door, it's just the drivers window which doesn't.
I'm guessing the amp woukd have 6 inputs and 2 outputs (auto up and down, manual up and down, power feed to the amp, then feed to motor)..
I'm thinking take the feed from the manual up and down to the motor.
But yea I'm unsure
Attachment 50326
This is the wiring diagram for the GQ electric windows. There is one relay that supplies power to all the window motors, however this relay is trigger by ignition. From the diagram it looks like the module has 8 wires?
So could I find the power wire (blue or white) and connect to motor, then green to the blue or white traced wire?? Or would motor go to earth??
Make yourself a 3 pin bridging harness.
Disconnect the amp and connect the bridging harness in the Blue with a Black trace wire, White with a Blue trace wire (both of these should be at the same end of the connector) and a Black wire (opposite end of connector).
Carefully test operation. Be ready to disconnect the harness and turn ignition off if smoke starts to escape :D
Power in is the white with black trace and black, power to the motor is the blue and green. Connecting these together will make the window go up and down i.e.
Blue -> white with black trace
Green -> Black
&
Blue -> Black
Green -> white with black trace