Car was fine then?

Patrol has been running beautifully over the last few weeks. Then we thought we would go for a drive. Got about 15mins out of town and the dreaded limp mode kicked in again. pulled the MAF out again. I cleaned it out about 3 weeks ago as I have just put in the catch can. So I pulled it out again and gave it another spray again over some paper towel I had in the car. Nothing obvious, Paper towel dried and nothing left on there I could see. Boost is set between 14 and 15 and not spooling up super quick. This is the first Nissan I have owned but by far the most unreliable. I want to do a big trip away towards the end of the year but can't if the car is as unreliable as it is. The Patrol is starting to leave a very bad taste in my mouth. Has anyone got any ideas besides slowing the spool down further as if I do that it will start to lag.
Anything would be appreciated.

Scott

TD42 conversion. You guys seem to fiddle for hours on the 3ls. Sounds like a massive pain in the ass to me.

How much to convert to 4.2l? May need some advice on how to get that past the wifey.

No idea if your paying someone to do it. Can pick up a turboed 4.2 for around 4-5. Plus conversion costs. Easily less than 10k and you couldnt upgrade cars for that.

4.2 conversion will cost a lot more than that. But I agree on the 3L. Consistent fiddling and tinkering with. Mine has it's rags one week, then its fine the next. Then it's rinse and repeat.

More than 10 k? Really? Is that paying someone? The 3lts require cutting mounts and maybe gearbox/flange changes from memory but boxes are cheap.

Ive spent 20 k including purchase of a TD then fully rebuilding said td with better internals, UFI turbo, DC 12mm, intercooler, blah blah blah.

Hell you could convert to a stock N/A for reliability (which can be had for 2-3k good complete runner), a new exhaust (if you dont already have one on your 3l) and some wiring/cluster. Baddabing baddaboom.

Don't have the skills or time to do it myself. Would have to pay someone

Bloke at work just put a td42t in his granaded ZD and I think it cost him 10k. Maybe a little more cause the turbo was cactus. He paid a mechanic to do it.

Maybe for my CRD it's different then. I got quoted minimum 20k drive in drive out for a rebuilt and strengthened td42.
That is getting someone to fully do it.

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At 10k it still out of reach. I think I still need to fix original problem of limp mode. Any 3lt guru's?

Just a thought mate... How accurate is your gauge ? For whatever reason it might be showing 15-16 max but car in fact could have more going through it causing limp .

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Hey Hodge, not the most experienced with this. Is there a way to check accuracy? Very intermittent though. Can't make it go in to limp. It's killing me because the rest of the time it is as good as gold.

Go get it Dynoed then leave it alone,

Didn't know too much about Patrols when I got mine, but I was told to get a 4.2, looks like good advice.
There are a lot here that have no troubles with the 3.0, hopefully they can help get it sorted for you.

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Originally Posted by Covo71

At 10k it still out of reach. I think I still need to fix original problem of limp mode. Any 3lt guru's?

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Hey Buddy,
Iv found that my 2001 ZD30 tends to go into limp mode only within 10mins of start up/warming up trying to give it a boot full (20PSI).
That is the only time it has gone into limp mode.

Rob,

Two things come to mind. The MAF is on its way out, or your intercooler maybe leaking. Cleaning a dud maf won't do much at all. Also whats the condition of the air filter like?
As for Dales comment. I haven't touched my ZD30 since I first put the NAD's in. Other than upgrading the intake thats it. Well, and also only Saturday I removed my dawes and needle valve just to see how the car behaves now I have a boost and EGT gauge in. (since the NAD's).
Eff'ing boost is all over the shop, going up a hill in second with the go pedal flat the boost is almost at 30psi I then change from second to third and I have a massive 5psi and the car almost stalls! But my EGT's at 100k's was sitting at a cool 170c compared to 220c before because of the higher boost it gets now.
Gonna put it all back in when I can be eff'ed. But run higher boost than what the dawes is currently at.

As for the TD conversion, most ZD30 owners wish they could afford it. Me for one. I have a motor here that needs a rebuild but the lack of funds is getting in the way.

So for the OP. Can you get a hold of another maf to try out? As limp mode is an overboost warning pretty much. Some Patrols with stock air intakes (including snorkels) can only get as far as 14psi, on the other hand some get 18psi.
Check the air cleaner, make sure its good, also remove and check the intercooler too. Plus check all the boost hoses for splits etc etc. Those should cause limp mode but it won't hurt to check....

Thanks Mudski, I got a new MAF off you a few weeks back but is doing the same thing before replacing somI would be thinking it is something else. Air filter is fairly new, about 3 or 4 months and still pretty clean. Bit dark now but I will check for split pipes tomorrow. Not sure about the intercooler. It has got some crap on it but not any specific section. A new one coming next pay maybe if I can work it in to budget. I will keep looking but may need to get it to someone with some skills. Lol. Not me. Thanks heaps

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Covo71

Thanks Mudski, I got a new MAF off you a few weeks back but is doing the same thing before replacing somI would be thinking it is something else. Air filter is fairly new, about 3 or 4 months and still pretty clean. Bit dark now but I will check for split pipes tomorrow. Not sure about the intercooler. It has got some crap on it but not any specific section. A new one coming next pay maybe if I can work it in to budget. I will keep looking but may need to get it to someone with some skills. Lol. Not me. Thanks heaps

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Ah yes you did too...I'd pull the ic off and have a look at it. Black oily deposits on the under side of the ic is a telltale sign of leakage. Also try opening up the needle valve a little. This can relax the boost just enough. I had a similar issue a while back where I would see limp mode only in 3rd and on a hill of a certain incline. I opened up the needle valve a little and it fixed the issue.

Covo if you check out your intercooler and the rubber joins in and out, oil/dust stains like the pic below are a sure sign of leakage.

Attachment 46105

Also, are there any mods done except for the catch can? EGR block? NADS? Any chips installed?

Thanks mate. I will pull off the IC tomorrow. I will try the needle valve adjustment again. Cheers

IC looks nothing like that but will take off tomorrow and check underneath. EGR blocked, Dawes and needle valve in place and the catch can in a couple of weeks ago. No chip.

i dont think you can put a td42 into 2009, can only put the same year or newer.

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Originally Posted by batesy

i dont think you can put a td42 into 2009, can only put the same year or newer.

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Ofcourse you can. It has to be the later model intercooled version 4.2 though, to pass emissions etc ...
It's a very expensive exercise.

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what about a scan gauge or similar to see if it is something else

did'nt they stop making 4.2td after 2006.

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Originally Posted by batesy

did'nt they stop making 4.2td after 2006.

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Yup the last of the 4,2 rolled off the line then.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Covo71

Thanks Mudski, I got a new MAF off you a few weeks back but is doing the same thing before replacing somI would be thinking it is something else. Air filter is fairly new, about 3 or 4 months and still pretty clean. Bit dark now but I will check for split pipes tomorrow. Not sure about the intercooler. It has got some crap on it but not any specific section. A new one coming next pay maybe if I can work it in to budget. I will keep looking but may need to get it to someone with some skills. Lol. Not me. Thanks heaps

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have you blocked the egr as a faulty egr can cause limp mode yes just read it sorry