Hi guys,
New to 4x4 scene, I have a GQ LWB wagon that I am about to mod, I would like to run 35" tyres, what lift kit would I need to give it clearance? Thinking 4" all round with no body lift.
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Hi guys,
New to 4x4 scene, I have a GQ LWB wagon that I am about to mod, I would like to run 35" tyres, what lift kit would I need to give it clearance? Thinking 4" all round with no body lift.
hey mate jump over to the intro and put a post in there!
As for the lift on 35's, this a question I will never understand, If the tyre wont fit in the guard now on full flex it's not going to fit in the guard no matter what lift! I run 35's and cut both front and rear guards.
I run a 2" lift &2" bodylift works great with 35s
Yep 35s here too . Simple 2" susp lift and 2" body lift works for me ;)
So a 4" susp lift will be the same as 2" body + 2" susp?
You'll have to really watch your compression length and extend the bump stops to suit.
Nah not the same. Suspension lift will increase the distance between the axle and chassis whereas a body lift increases the distance between the chassis and the body.Quote:
Originally Posted by omy
What would I need to complete a 4" lift front and 5" lift rear? I want to go higher on the rear as I will be adding a long range Tank and two spares tyres!
Big difference between 2 inch and 4 inch lift in what is needed.....Quote:
Originally Posted by omy
For 2 inch, springs and shocks is pretty much it.....
For 4 inch, adjustable panhards, swaybar extensions, springs, shocks, drag link (I think), caster correction (drop boxes, bushes, plates) extended brake lines and more.....
Also, you don't want 4 inch front and 5 inch rear, you want properly chosen 4 inch springs all round, designed to carry the weight you expect to have on board.
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So 4" all round with heavy duty springs in the rear?
Yes mate. Add up the weight of all the accessories you intend to fit (not just the ones you have now) and use that calculation to select your spring rate.Quote:
Originally Posted by omy
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Helluva lot cheaper going the 2inch spring lift and a 2inch body lift as to what drewboy mentioned you need. No point going a 4inch lift if you can do a body lift and cut the cost by a fair bit IMO.
Plus it would need to be engineered for the 4" lift and 35" tyres.
Could end up being expensive
35's can't be engineered in Victoria. To remain roadworthy they are a no-go.....Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
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With body lifts, I have read that it cracks the mounts over time?
I want to build the car to handle the cape, any other things susp wise will I need?
As Drew points out, there's a few things to think about. I would definitely go with the same front and rear estimating your weight first. You can always adjust ride height a little by using coil spacers once it's all set up. If you decide on a body lift there pro's and con's but don't forget you will have to change all your bar work to fit properly. Mounts can crack, Nylon is better as it gives a little flex and is still strong and if your mounts are in good nick you should be fine. As Drew points out there are roadworthy issues in Vic too to think about.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewboyaus
If 35" tires are used do you reckon the differential gears should be modified?
Ideally, yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrake
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I haven't and my fuel economy sucks! But as far as power not as huge difference as with a non turbo not to much to start with lol! I would however look at a brake upgrade. The brakes are crap to start with and 35's make them worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrake
Thanks for the advice mate what breaks would you recommend based on your experience?Quote:
Originally Posted by 89gqpatrol4x4
I haven't done mine yet as it is a toy, but slotted rotors and soft pads would be a start. Upgrading to twin piston calipers off a later gq. Or you could go all out and go a complete upgrade. There is a thread on the other forum where they use skyline brakes, Very expensive from memory though. They would be awesome though as I have a skyline and although the car is light the brakes are great!
There is also a mod where it uses your power steering pump to run your breaks. Massive difference. Search the other forums
I'm running 35's with a 3" Dobinson setup (springs, shocks, drop boxes, brake lines). I find with -22 rims and extended bump stops it rarely scrubs. I'm thinking of trimming my guards but I'm worried I'll make it look shiet though.
Multiple options to fit 35s. What do you want to get out of your suspension? What type of driving do you intend to be doing? How much money do you want to throw at it? Do you want it engineered?
It's a patrol so there are way too many options to make it happen to give an easy answer.
Mine was 6" spring and 3" body with 35s on -22 rims. Standard GQ diffs. Later upgraded to GU diffs for the stronger CVs, better brakes and wider track. Suspension was more height than needed but has and still does work really well for me under all conditions.
wow! that setup must be fun on side slope!!!! And have you thought about 37's for that car or are 35's enough for what you want?
I run 37s mostly now as it's pretty much a comp truck full time now. The 37s needed the guards chopped, even with the height and the front control arms pushed forward.
Don't be afraid of height and slopes.
With the 37s with -44 offset and GU diffs it has a very wide stance and is very stable, even at speed.
I did lay it over once with the 35s but it was doing about 20km/hr and wasn't really the lift but the track and conditions combined with the turn and the tyre rolling off the bead all at the same time.
Except for the 37s it was my daily and touring rig and was very comfortable, stable and drove sweet as. If it is set up right it will ride nice.
It is definitely not the most popular choice in set ups but as I said it works for me and I have had a few people comment on how it handles, both passengers and spectators.
sounds good mate any photos/action shots?
Do you calculate the correction into your fuel usage calcs? 35s do far less rotations per km than a 31 which is what most patrols came with and the odo and trip is calibrated to suit.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89gqpatrol4x4
Over 1km a 35 does nearly 60 less rotations than a 31.
no i dont, i do realize it is more than what the odo says just can't be bothered to work it out haha!
Its roughly 15% so on a tank where you get 500km you can add around 75km to the distance travelled.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89gqpatrol4x4
I ran a 3inch lift on my GQ wagon. King springs, matching shocks, extended brake lines, castor correction bushes, all included in the kit for around $800 from eBay. Disconnected the sway bars and adjusted the brake proportioning valve and fitted adjustable pan hard rod. Ran 35's without dramas. You might notice an increase in fuel consumption, for 2 reasons. 1, the tread design of your choice of tyre, in guessing somewhat aggressive and 2, the final gearing of you truck with the bigger tyres is altered. Even though each revolution of the drive shaft will put you further down the road, more power is needed to move you due to the higher gearing. Not unlike trying to ride a mountain bike in low gear compared to high gear.
The other thing to consider is the offset of the wheels you're choosing, as this will determine whether or not you'll experience tyre rub, especially when turning.
Hope this info is of use to you.
2" lift and 2" body save you a lot of money
I have a 4 inch suspension lift and have trimmed the back of the front and rear guards. with 35x12.5 r 15s they still scrub a little when flexed.