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Wanting to save a few bucks and DYI, and a first time TD owner .
Looked all over the place :1087: , cant seem to find basic instructions how to set TDC No1 & 6 cyl to start setting valve gaps on the trusty GU TD42t.
Could someone please copy, paste, link or write up the procedure, thankyou.
I looked and looked and looked, but all I could find was,
First set No1 on tdc, " but not how ! ".
There is a cutout in the dampener and an extruded point on the front cover. It is hard to see with everything in place but it is there and doable. Line that mark up and check #1 if both valves are loose then it should be at tdc if not then set the other valves first as per the sequence on the manuals then rotate 360 degrees and complete.
You had my number bloke you could have called lol.
Robo,
presume you've got a manual showing which valve settings are checked at TDC and 360 later and are familiar with putting the wagon in gear (I think top or 4th worked best) and pulling/pushing/bumping it forward till the mark on the top pulley is in line with the fixed mark.
As Newby says, the position you want is well hidden behind a cover or something. From memory you need to look in from the top left side of the pulley. Been a few years since I did it on the 42. Once you get it you could try a bit of paint or whiteout so next time is easier.
All the best
Col
Thanks, knew there had to be something I wasn't seeing looking around.
If I ring when I get home from work is that OK LMAO Check what time I posted this bro.
THANKYOU FELLERS.
CHEERS.
If you can best to set with dial guage instead of feeler guages.
Thanks, don't own a dial gauge, often thought I should buy one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid
So a reading from rocker arm above push rod (at the required valve gap) would be how to go about it ?.
I had another look around harmonic balancer and t/cover this arvo , found timing marks, as advised, thankyou.
Valve stem and rocker face is the way to go. Some times the face of rocker arm pits or has wear and can be tricky to get perfect.
Ohh, Of course the pivot is probably off center and gap would be different at each end.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid
I was thinking gauge would get in the way of adjusting,
As I haven't taken the rocker cover off yet that assumption is no good obviously now.
thanks for the input.
Yeah never stop learning now matter how old or senile ya get.
Never forget anything I remember, lol. cheers
I set mine with feeler gauges first,then checked with dial indicator, both read the same ,engine has done 300 k !
Robo,
your question about each end reading different is probably true but the diff. is so minute you can safely ignore it.
Don't use old worn spanners/sockets as the nuts are totally oiled and the last thing you want to do is slip and cause rounding on the hexes.
Luck,
Col
Yeah I like leaving the skin on my knuckles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Col.T
I always loosen the rocker locks first, and not worry about holding the current setting, then I set about adjusting.
some may say hold screw also, but this method suits me just fine.
have dry skin and takes 3x longer to heal up if I skin my knuckles.
also help to use a flat spanner if possible and not offset.
cheers
Well did the job on the week end.
Parked on flat levels concrete surface.
chocked front wheels.
jacked rear end and placed on axle stands.
remove cross pipe and rocker cover.
select 4th gear and rotate rear tyre till tdc compression stroke on cyl1 and start adjusting.
and crank over 360 deg and do the rest.
wasn't hard all cyls were approx. .33 but a little loud so reset to .3mm.
sounding much better now.
And thankyou for the advice.
cheers.
Hi,
How often do you guys do the valve clearamces on these engines?