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Hi guys I bought a kit to install a keyless entry system into my 1990 Safari and just looking for advice that anyone who has done it can give. My truck already has central locking so I'm thinking of just hooking up the system to the drivers door is that what everyone else has done?
I'm keen to see what comes of this, take pics along the way :) I have a gu with central locking but not remote and am wanting to do the same thing to mine.
Yes that's all that needs to be done. Mine had remote locking in it when I bought it and they just added an actuator to the drivers door.Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisc2306
Here's a couple of photos of the kit and the wiring diagram that was included with it. I assume that it is number 2 wiring diagram that corresponds to the GQ
Attachment 43374Attachment 43375
Very easy to do. Get ahold of some cable splices and a user manual so you splice into the correct coloured cable. The hazard button provides a source to splice into for the indicators and the plastic panel under the drivers door has a cable for the negative trigger when opening doors. Installing the actuator into the door isn't that hard either, just requires a little playing around. Get power straight from the battery and ignition from the ciggy lighter.
Awesome thanks. With it being a Safari mine is 24v so I'm just going to wire it to the convertor that I installed when putting in the stereo because its rated for 30A and I assume that the keyless entry won't use much power. Do you know which of the above diagrams correspond to the GQ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Use number 2.
Thats what I thought. Thanks for the help much appreciated!Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
My 2 middle door actuators are shot so am replacing the lot.
So my install is simple, just run the supplied loom..
Ordered the actuator for the drivers door but done the rest of the install today. Pretty straight forward with mine being a safari I got the 12v from my converter that I've installed but didn't bother tapping into the hazards because they are 24v so it wouldn't work. As for the wiring for anyone else that wants to do it in the drivers door there are 3 cables blue, purple and black cables blue to black opens the doors and purple to black locks them so I just used the system I bought and tapped into that. For anyone interested this is the system I bought http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110953863...84.m1497.l2649
If you want the hazard light to work all you need is two 12 volt relays.
The 12 volt relays are switched on by the module and supply 24 volt to your hazard lights.
Thanks mate not sure if I'm going to bother the noise of the central locking is enough to let me know I'm not too worried about the lights flashingQuote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
The other option is to look at how the power windows work (if you have powered windows).
My truck automatically winds the windows up when I activate the central looking remote. - unfortunately I dont know how the wiring was interfaced - as the kit was installed when i purchased the truck
I wonder is someone can give me some advice the drivers door actuator arrived today with a pretty minimal wiring diagram and I'm just wondering if anyone else has used something similar and got the wiring sussed. In the door I have a black (common), blue (open) and purple (close) connected onto the system I bought I will repost the wiring diagrams that came with that and also the wiring diagram for the actuator. I played around with it for a while tonight but couldn't get it to work. Hope someone can help
Attachment 43626
This is the wiring diagram for the kit
Attachment 43627
And this is the one for the actuator
Connect the Blue and Green wires of the actuator to the the Green and Purple wires of the module.
If the actuator works opposite to the other doors swap the wires over.
Thats how I connected it up earlier but it didn't work. Problem is there's 5 cables coming out of the actuator and theres also the existing 3 cables from the central locking originally (black,blue and purple)Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
The 5 wire actuators are a master/control actuator. The extra 3 wires are connected to switches inside the actuator that make and break when the actuator locks and unlocks. You don't need to connect these.
With the Patrols all you need is a slave actuator (2x wire) but you should still be able to use the 5 wire one, just don't connected the other 3 wires.
Do you have the actuator mounted in the door yet? have you tried suppling direct power to the actuator?
There was another thread recently were the OP couldn't get the actuator to work directly from the module. He ended up having to wire the new drivers door actuator in parallel to the other door lock actuators. Not sure if this is an option with your vehicle being 24 volt. Do you know if the original actuators are 12 or 24 volt?
+1 to what yendor said. Just leave the original setup in the door, you don't need to touch it. Install any of the actuators into the drivers door.
Are you having issues making the actuator work? Have you used number 2 diagram and hooked up all the relevant wires? I know it would seem strange to have a few wires going to +, but this is how it goes.
Pink and orange to 12v+ and black and white to earth. As well as the other 12v inputs the unit asks for.
You guys are awesome! Got it sorted tonight bit embarrassing to say because I'm an electrician but it was actually the fuse that was gone in the module. Once that was sorted I played around with the wiring a bit and got it sorted. Connected the old cables (black,blue and purple) onto the common, normally open and normally closed contacts in the actuator as well and stripped out the old one so now everything works perfectly. Thanks again for your help guys much appreciated
Great info, just what I am about to try.