Is there a mod that I can do so I dont have to fully turn the ignition on to use the power windows?
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Is there a mod that I can do so I dont have to fully turn the ignition on to use the power windows?
The GU's have an electric window relay mounted in the LHS kick panel inline with the bottom of the glovebox. You could bypass this relay so the windows work all the time or you could wire up a switch to switch them on when you wanted.
If you bypass the relay the little LED light in the driver side master control switch will be on all the time.
so basically run a powered toggle switch back to the relay?
Yes, you will also need a diode so the ignition doesn't turn on when you flick the switch.
Ah ok one way feed
or as yendor had previously written in a previous thread
First locate the relay, LHS kick panel about glovebox height.
There could be 3 relays here, to find the one you are after just remove one at a time until your electric windows stop.
Remove the relay, there should be 4 wires going into the relay mounting base.
One will be a black wire, we will not use this one.
One should be a White with a Red trace wire, large wire. (This should have power in it all the time regards of what position the ignition switch is in, confirm with test light).
One should be a White with a Black trace wire, large wire.
The last one should be a smaller size wire (about the same size as the black wire) this should only have power in it when the ignition is on, confirm with test light), we will not use this one.
Make up a little jumper lead with at least a 5mm wire about and inch and a half long with yellow male spade terminals at each end.
One end will need to go into the large white with a red trace wire and the other end in the large white with a black trace wire.
This will allow the windows to work all the time regardless if the ignition is on or off.
*** The above is for a GQ ***
Awesome nice and simple, I will do your above but with a toggle attachedQuote:
Originally Posted by my third 256
It's not a good idea to have the electric windows running through a toggle switch. If you want to use the toggle switch it needs to be switching a relay. This way the relay takes the load of the window motors not the toggle switch.
ok have to ask do I leave the harness unplugged from the relay and run the jumper?, I left the relay plugged in and pushed in a jumper, that worked on all 3 windows but the drivers side window wouldnt work, below is a pic of the relays showing one with the jumper, I know ive got it wrong, my moneys on leaving the relay disconnected then putting in the jumper?
That's strange the drivers window should work. What year model is your vehicle?
It doesn't matter if you disconnect the relay or leave it connected.
You have connected the jumper lead across the two larger wires? white wire and a white with a red.
mines a 2000 model, yes definitely bridged the 2 correct wires larger white wire with red trace and the one opposite is white with little pink dot, but the drivers side window wont work, but the other 3 do, for the drivers window to work ignition has to be turned right onQuote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
Just had a look at the wiring diagram and the 2000 model is different. Bypassing the relay like that won't allow the drivers window to work when the ignition is off.
Bugger, so I'm thinking I could cut the main power in and run fused directly back to my battery
The problem with the drivers window is it looks like it requires power in the Red with a Yellow trace wire (pin13 driver master switch) for it to work.
If your keen you could try cutting the Red with a Yellow trace wire and connection it to the White wire in pin 12. Then try bypassing the relay.
After some playing it appears the plain white wire with pink dot, doesnt become active until the ignition is turned fully on, so with test light I found a hot wire which is a larger white wire with a black trace, there is another wire opposite with the same trace but is not required, so with your test light you will soon find the correct hot wire which I believe which is on pin 5 of the wiring diagram, you need to cut the red wire with red trace,and use the the red wire with yellow trace from the plug, the other end thats into the harness I simply clean cut and heat shrinked it, I then spliced into the white wire with black trace and butted the red with yellow trace into it and soldered it, I then taped it all up. I then made a jumper using a small piece of wire added and soldered 2 spades then disconnected the harness from the relay and bridged the two larger wires which are white with a red trace and the white with a pink dot, after doing this tested it and all windows working perfectly and no need to have ignition on to use them :) This is quiet a simple mod once you nut it out and a big thankyou to those who offered guidence in this thread
Good job mate.
Pin 5 will work fine. The only reason that I recommended connecting it to pin 12 is that pin 12 does become constant active once you bypass the relay. This way it is still sort of keeping the circuit in it's original state and if you ever wanted to change it back to original all you would have to do is un-bypass the relay.
The way you have done it is fine.
I did connect to pin 12 Yendor with the bypass on the relay, but the ignition lights came on
Was the red wire with the yellow trace cut at the time?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickie3
Yes it was YendorQuote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
It shouldn't of done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickie3
The red with the yellow trace is the only link to ignition. Once this is cut the ignition circuit should of been isolated.
Maybe some other wiring in your vehicle has been modified.
there is in place a very old hands free kit, with wiring running everywhere, I am goingto remove it one day, but it is a bundled mess, and whoever installed wants hanging with it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
I'm currently working on a modification to the drivers door window module that allows you to control all the windows after you turn the vehicle off (not in ignition position)
The features of the modification are:
* Able to operate the windows 5 minutes after you switch out of ignition position. (This complies with ADR)
* The timer will be cut short if the drivers door is opened and then closed.
* The window disable switch will flash while in timer mode.
Also playing with the idea of changing the colour of the illumination of the "AUTO" switch (sick of orange) and adding illumination to the other switches.
Just seeing if anyone else would be interested in these modification. It should work on all GU window modules from 2001 onwards
Any mods are well worth posting, i'm always looking for different things to do, so yep interested for sureQuote:
Originally Posted by Flex
This modification will require adding custom made electronics inside the window module. Would members be confident in doing that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickie3
Some on here would be and some won't, If its a mod that works post up in a new thread :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex
I thought all Patrol owners were confident? lol, Flex if you post up a step by step and are prepared to answer questions then members will be keen :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex
great little mod that will keep me happy with the miss's on board {always forgetting to put up window}
Questions Rod, what diode do I need and where should it be placed, thinking of using a momentary switch in an appropriate position or could I run it off the door light switch ??