Confusion?? Help appreciated 2" Lift for 2002 GU II

G'day All,
I have been reading the Suspension & Body Lifts posts / answers in relation to getting a 2" lift and I'm a little confused to what I should be looking for or need to consider and not waste money ie
1/ castor correction, would this be advisable to get and to negate any potential handling issues?
2/ radias arm spacers, is this a good option to negate any potential issues?
3/ steering dampener replacement, it probably is original.
4/ I want to clarify what bushes that should be checked / replaced?
5/ any recommendations to which lift kit I should be considering and from where?
6/ what is the maximum rated payload I can achieve with upgrade or is there no change?

I have a 2002 GU II 3.0 Litre with an automatic transmission, factory bull bar ( winch to be fitted in future ),
running Lt 265/75R16 tyres, its done only 115000 klms and it also has a fridge & home made draw system permanently installed at present.

Looking forward to your thoughts & advice.
Thanks
Tikashooter

Hey mate if your just after a 2 inch lift springs and shocks should be fine there is no need for the other stuff

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Originally Posted by tikashooter

G'day All,
I have been reading the Suspension & Body Lifts posts / answers in relation to getting a 2" lift and I'm a little confused to what I should be looking for or need to consider and not waste money ie
1/ castor correction, would this be advisable to get and to negate any potential handling issues?
2/ radias arm spacers, is this a good option to negate any potential issues?
3/ steering dampener replacement, it probably is original.
4/ I want to clarify what bushes that should be checked / replaced?
5/ any recommendations to which lift kit I should be considering and from where?
6/ what is the maximum rated payload I can achieve with upgrade or is there no change?

I have a 2002 GU II 3.0 Litre with an automatic transmission, factory bull bar ( winch to be fitted in future ),
running Lt 265/75R16 tyres, its done only 115000 klms and it also has a fridge & home made draw system permanently installed at present.

Looking forward to your thoughts & advice.
Thanks
Tikashooter

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No requirement for Caster Correction, as most trucks still track fairly well with the 2" lift, but you can choose to do it, to restore the geometry to factory.
No Spacers required,, especially with the older flares on the 2002 models and small tyres
Steering Damper is up to you, as it may be fairly worn by now, but is not required usually.
Check all bushes and bolts - replace as necessary - but not knowing the condition of your truck makes it hard to comment
Stick with the major kits and you wont have any dramas - plenty of threads and answers about specific kits here too
Payload wont change, although you may have less sag with heavier duty rated springs

Thank you very much,
Cheers

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Originally Posted by tikashooter

2/ radias arm spacers, is this a good option to negate any potential issues?

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You won't need radius arm spacers unless you are looking to run 35s on a 2" lift.

Other than springs and shocks you don't "need" to replace anything else. Though if you did desire, swapping to an adjustable drag link means you'll keep you steering wheel centered (rather than it sitting permanently on a slight angle) and if you upgrade that you may as well upgrade your steering damper too (though if you are running small tyres and keep them well balanced you really don't need to upgrade).

I'd suggest just doing springs and shocks first. Enjoy the improvement in ride quality. Once you've had that in for a while you'll get an idea of what you like and what's annoying you and you can make decisions from there!

mine has a 2" efs no other bits and pieces although I would like braided brake lines

When you put in the 2" EFS lift was their specific springs for driver & passenger sides

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Originally Posted by Mac53

When you put in the 2" EFS lift was their specific springs for driver & passenger sides

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There always is!!!!

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Originally Posted by Mac53

When you put in the 2" EFS lift was their specific springs for driver & passenger sides

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Yep. You will notice with any lift the drivers side is slightly longer to off set stock things like driver, battery etc.

All springs should be marked LF, RF, RL, RR or similar.

Hi.
GU111 '02 3 ltr.

King Springs 2in lift "PROGRESSIVE RATE" springs. with EFS H\D Shockers.

Great on corrugations dirt. and the Progressive rate makes bitumin comfort soooo much better.
IE Softer rates at start of spring compressions..
Another good thing is a Suspension seat. (Mine is Stratos. Truckies)

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Originally Posted by tikashooter

1/ castor correction, would this be advisable to get and to negate any potential handling issues?

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No mate on a GU you shouldn't need castor correction until you go to a 3-4" lift.

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Originally Posted by tikashooter

3/ steering dampener replacement, it probably is original.

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Always a good idea to upgrade this after the first 100,000km, especially if it's still factory. Whilst it may still be doing it's job, if you add muddies or bigger tyres it won't be as effective as an aftermarket unit.

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Originally Posted by tikashooter

4/ I want to clarify what bushes that should be checked / replaced?

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Short answer. All of them. Longer answer. I'd start off with your bushes in the front. Tie rod, panhard, drag link, sway bar. I'd also get your wheel bearings checked and tightened if needed.
On the rear, I'd get your upper and lower trailing arms checked for their bushes along with the panhard at the rear.

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Originally Posted by tikashooter

5/ any recommendations to which lift kit I should be considering and from where?

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We do a range of lift kits for the GU's. Based off your stated needs and mods our constant load kits would suit you well. And you would have a choice between our foam cell and nitro gas shocks (I'd probably go Foam Cell if you plan to take it offroad much). We also do extra like steering dampers, adjustable drag links etc. A well matched kit of ours will provide an excellent ride, both on and off-road.

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Originally Posted by tikashooter

6/ what is the maximum rated payload I can achieve with upgrade or is there no change?

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Your GVM won't change as a result of doing a suspension upgrade. A GVM upgrade is something different (essentially a suspension upgrade with an engineering certificate). What a suspension upgrade will do is allow you to carry that weight more easily, providing a better ride and control, without the sagging you would otherwise get with stock springs - plus you get better clearance and flex as a result of the lift!

If you have any other questions I can help out with, give me a yell, either in the thread or via PM.

Cheers,

Matt
Ironman 4x4

Thanks Matt,

Is it advisable to have the majority of my gear that I cart around when I'm off road in the patrol when I get "fitted" with an suspension upgrade, or
just bring the patrol in and get the largest constant load kit that can be fitted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tikashooter

Thanks Matt,

Is it advisable to have the majority of my gear that I cart around when I'm off road in the patrol when I get "fitted" with an suspension upgrade, or
just bring the patrol in and get the largest constant load kit that can be fitted.

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It's always more ideal if you get you fitting done with the gear on the vehicle. It assists the suspension fitters in being able to calculate loads (even better if you can go to a weight bridge and weigh every corner individually! But saying that if your loads vary and you have a particular ride that you wish to achieve or a particular type of driving you want the vehicle tooled to, then that is also the time to explain that to the suspension fitters so that they can optimise the kit choice based off your desires for the outcome.

It's not always about just getting the heaviest kit. There are times where that is a bad choice as it will be too harsh a ride and too stiff. Correctly matched springs to your loads and also the type of drive you desire is important.

For example I really enjoy a lightly heavier rated set of springs on the rear of my GU. It helps provide a more controlled ride on road (with less body roll than a really soft spring of equivelent ride height) and also helps force the front end to flex, plus when I go on extended trips the extra weight makes the high spring rate even more perfectly matched.

Others on the other hand might perfer a more supple ride which may result in a little more dulation and body roll, but will be less harsh, especially offroad where it'll soak up the corrugations better.

Hope that helps answer the question.

Cheers,

Matt
Ironman 4x4

Again thank you very much it certainly has helped I like the idea of slightly heavier springs on the rear.
When the Boss gives me the ok to spend some more coin on the GU I will certainly be coming to you guys first.

Cheers,
Tikashooter