bad clunk and front hub getting destroyed

Hi guys had my 99 y61 for a few year now and have always had a problem with a shocking clunk in the front end took it to a mechanic and tested the chain in the transfer case not that. He told me I had a lSD in the front . wich I don't. He put some additive in and seemed to be fine for about 2 weeks then the clunk came back been fairly mechanically minded thought I would have a crack my self. drive line to front diff was fine but front hubs where slipping teeth and making me loose traction. which was the cause of my noise so I replaced front hubs and went for a trip on the week end and chewed out the front left hub in less then 3 hours these where brand new manual hubs. ended up having to drive home in 2wd off the beach not much fun. Any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers tom

Is it possible you have an auto lokka in the front??

possible how would I check that

all I know is that if I jack up the front end with hubs locked if I turn one wheel the other wheel goes the other way

bloody hell, I was wondering what I'd done wrong when I saw that heading........................................... ............

My apologies, carry on, I have nothing more useful to add

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Originally Posted by Tomdinneen

all I know is that if I jack up the front end with hubs locked if I turn one wheel the other wheel goes the other way

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Yea that's normal. What happens with one wheel in the air?? Can you still turn it when all locked??

could also be the shock absorber bottoming out,send oncedisturbed a pm.We went on a drive and he had a clunk problem(yeah we get 2 sorts of clunks over here)ended up being a shocky.....just a thought and another thing to look at..

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Originally Posted by Clunk

bloody hell, I was wondering what I'd done wrong when I saw that heading........................................... ............

My apologies, carry on, I have nothing more useful to add

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pmsl,

You have a monster somewhere, sure your not driving a land cruiser ?

Sack your mechanic, a mechanic that adds additives to fix clunking problems on a patrol. I would be digging deeper to work out more history on the car most likely i'm wrong but my unprofessional opinion look around for signs of bolts mounts that look like they have been taken out or s
something has been modified. ie you should be able to tell if the front dif has been apart before, check the back of your radius arms nuts just look for any signs of work that has been done before.

I know it is the hub or diff as I can see the damage on the hubs

Some Possible causes of clunk considering your hub damage are,
Bolts Loose on ring gear on centre,
Broken teeth on ring or pinion,
Worn splines on axel shafts or cv's,
Incorrect assembly of spindle/ bearing/ hub area.
What broke on your hubs? Spline area or the locking ring? Photos might help

I am not sure what you call it but it is the cog that slides over you cv spline ground it down to a knife edge should be about 3 to 4 mm wide

is that something I could check just by inspection

hey westie will be check for a locker at lunch any thing else I need to know to check it

just checked for a locker in the front but can spin both wheels freely when other wheel on the ground so no lokka

That test eliminates an lsd diff.
Not sure how to test for a lokka..
Are you running your hubs locked or in auto??

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Originally Posted by Westy's Accessories

That test eliminates an lsd diff.
Not sure how to test for a lokka..
Are you running your hubs locked or in auto??

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If there was a lokka in you wouldn't be able to spin a wheel free. That's assuming that both hubs are locked in.

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Originally Posted by lhurley

If there was a lokka in you wouldn't be able to spin a wheel free. That's assuming that both hubs are locked in.

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Even if not engaged?? Would think an auto lokka acts like an open diff when not engaged??
And the clunk is it engaging??
Just going on thoughts here as I don't have a lokka..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Westy's Accessories

Even if not engaged?? Would think an auto lokka acts like an open diff when not engaged??
And the clunk is it engaging??
Just going on thoughts here as I don't have a lokka..

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If it was a manual locker perhaps, but an auto lokka no free spin.

Auto lokkas aren't so much an auto locker, but more of an auto UN-locker. They are locked 100% of the time. When you want to turn, for the wheels to turn at different speeds (outside has to go a lot further), 1 wheel can go faster. So instead of the inside wheel basically stopping on a sharp turn, and the drive going to the outside wheel, it swaps. The drive goes to the inside wheel and the outside wheel spins faster. Both wheels can only ever spin as slow as the engine is going.


I have a feeling that probably won't make much sense, but there is a good write up about them on the superior engineering site.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lhurley

If it was a manual locker perhaps, but an auto lokka no free spin.

Auto lokkas aren't so much an auto locker, but more of an auto UN-locker. They are locked 100% of the time. When you want to turn, for the wheels to turn at different speeds (outside has to go a lot further), 1 wheel can go faster. So instead of the inside wheel basically stopping on a sharp turn, and the drive going to the outside wheel, it swaps. The drive goes to the inside wheel and the outside wheel spins faster. Both wheels can only ever spin as slow as the engine is going.


I have a feeling that probably won't make much sense, but there is a good write up about them on the superior engineering site.

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Na I got it. Thanks for explaining..

just been in albany talking to dave at auswest 4wd wrecking . He was saying that it is probablay just a shit set of hubs he has had major troubles in the past with after maket hubs aparently they are non forged making them far softer then genuine or avm hubs also the contact on the splines is far less only 3 to 4 mm instead of 6 or 7 mm so got a set of second hand genuine one coming on monday will let you know how i go