All Things Chev

G'day guys n girls.

I thought that I would creat this post for all of those that have had the 6.5l V8 conversions done to their Patrol's or even those that are thinking about doing it.

My aim is to try to get all of the info in one place and easy to find.

Feel free to either post about things that work, things that don't or even things that would work with a few mods. Any info that helps is appreciated.

I know that there are quite a few of us on the forum now that has this conversion. the other thing being that everyone has an opinion on how these conversions preform but few have actually owned or driven one so lets see if we can't squash a few rumours while we're at it.

@ AB, Can you please make this a sticky? I am not sure if it is in the right place either...

Ok, a little bit about my truck.

I brought my 2006 series 4 GU wagon with the ICTD 6.5l Chev back in 08/2012, here in WA.
The conversion had been done by Brunswick Conversions also here in WA, back in 02/2011. With the conversion, it also had a 5spd manual gearbox and 3.9:1 diff ratios. When I used 1st gear, the range was so short, it almost made it worth skipping it altogether and starting off in 2nd gear. To get around this problem (for me anyway) I replaced the manual for a 4spd Chev transmission.

Since owning it, I have travelled both north and south of Perth, usually towing a camper trailer. The fuel economy was slightly better than what I had with my old 98 4.5l GU Patrol, at around 15-18l/100km but obviously a lot more power.

Am I happy with my wagon? Damn straight! I now consider that I have the perfect alround wagon. Can it be improved? Absolutely! The only question is how much you want to spend...

Folks, this is just my opinion, as an owner of a 6.5l V8 Chev. All I can say, thinking back a couple of weeks ago when I went for a test drive off road, is what I posted a while back, being that I still giggle like a schoolgirl when I hit the loud pedal and it shows me just what it is capable of. I love my truck!

Look forward to hearing from the rest of you.

My brother just purchased a patrol with the same engine which was done by Brunswick in wa as well. Also got the extra cab put on which makes a big difference!

I heard the earlier models pre turbo had issues with number 4 but I'm ill keep my eye on this thread for advice for him and ask any questions he may have about it.

Moved this into the Engine Conversion Sub Category

Good idea Highlander.

Like you I have the Turbo Intercooled version, although in a 1999 manual wagon. I agree with your comment regarding first gear, and I have been starting to think about an Auto, although I do like to drive the manual.

I had mine installed because I wanted the torque when towing a large reef boat, and for that it has been fantastic. It has also proved fantastic in the bush doing slow work as the torque just eats it.

At the moment I am in the process of setting it up for a bit more touring, and I think this engine will be great on the long open roads when towing a camper. I have also installed a 10% 5th gear rev reduction gear, which brings my revs at 100kph down to around 1700rpm or so. Great on the open road, but not so great towing a load. The Autron Cruise control works really well on the long runs too.

Since installing the engine, I've done a 3000+klm trip from Cairns to Winton and Longreach, and then back to the Coast and return to Cairns. A couple of trips up Cape York, one to do the Maytown Track and return via the Creb Track, and a second trip to Virilya Point in November that was over 3000k's as well. The engine has been great on all occasions.

My best fuel economy was just under 14l/100kms when on the trip out west, minus any roof-rack or camper. The Cape trips averaged 17l/100km, with loaded roof-rack and towing my 3.8m tinnie on an off-road trailer. That included a bit of beach driving, some of the tele-track, some National Parks and lots of the Peninsular Development Rd. I was pretty happy with those sorts of fuel figures which were better than what I had managed in a 200 series LC on a similar trip and with similar load.

Overall - very happy with the engine conversion.

Great to hear Ben. I have to get the cruise control unit and I know that there is a thread on it for the 6.5l so will have to look at that. I also have to look at my brakes as she's a pig to pull up at the mo but I seem to recall you saying that yours stopped on a dime? I need to get the wheels off and have a look at the pads and rotors.

As for fuel economy, I am running 35s at the mo as my play tires. On road/off road revs at 100kms were around 2000rpm so very happy as have a roof rack with 4 x spotties on as well as larger tires so when I drop down to 285/75/16s I reckon it will be about 1700rpm as well.

Does anyone know about or have got the Compushift II computer for the auto trans? I am having a few issues trying to get the optimum setting...

Cruise Control is cruise control. I don't think there would be a certain type that goes with the Chev 6.5 any better. I went with the Autron as I got to drive another vehicle with it fitted, and it worked nicely. I think it is pretty good gear and made in Aus.

Brakes - I ended up doing what a few here have done with brakes and fitted some dimpled and slotted rotors and the EBC 6000 SERIES Greenstuff Brake pads. I only did the fronts, but yes, braking is definitely better. No change in how it 'feels' on the pedal, but it definitely pulls up quicker, even with a big boat behind me.

I was just today talking with Graham at Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns. He does all the Brunswick conversions at this end of town. He has been fitting a lot of Chev Autos lately and has all the computer gear for tweaking them. I think it was the older 4L85-E he was doing. Not sure if anyone has tried the 6-speed yet. No doubt someone would have by now.

I am running stock size tires and at 100 kph, I sit on 2100 rpm with the 3.9-1 gear set as Brunswick do, BenK, what were you sitting on prior to getting the gear reduction. I was looking at increasing tyre size to see if that would help with my rpm but looking at your post Highlander, you are reducing tyre size to achieve the same goal as me, on another note, I just pulled a camper trailer from Albury via Townsville to Darwin with a roof bag and box and averaged 15 - 16 lph depending on terrain. Engine performed flawlessly even through 44 plus heat in Qld. I like everyone else would be interested in an auto install too.

Reducing tyre size will give higher RPM at 100 KPH not lower.

From heaps of surfing over the yank sites... 1700 to 1800 ish is about where they get their best fuel economy.

BenK... where did you source your 10% gearing from?

Last week I was talking to two blokes here in Perth, one with the 4L85 and one with a beefed up 4L80 and both reckon best thing ever.
If thats the go then a 6L80 should be goddam awesome as 1st is waaay lower and 6th is even higher overdriven ratio than the 4L80/5's

Hi gents, have a bit of a potential disaster post possibly...

As some of you know my brother just recently purchased his new Patrol after someone rode off his old GU.

Anyways, Its the 6.5 chev non turbo in a GU cab chassis done by Brunswick in WA (not sure of exact type).

He just drove it back from WA to Melbourne and it ran like a dream.

Long story short it was a bloody hot day today and he drove up a long and steep hill to Christmas Hills from Yarra Glen (some of you know the hill) and it heated up to almost boiling but the temperature gauge read 3/4.

It was fine after the hill and cooled on the downhill.

Went to see a customer and it sat in the carpark for an hour and a half so cooled a bit too.

Drove 10 minutes down the road and it boiled again.

He got it home and is in his shed now looking at it but any advice is welcomed.

Praying it has not done the head of course.

The radiator overflow was pissing out hot water so we can eliminate thermostat shut (it has twin thermos too).

What can he check?

Both themostats stuck open? doubtful...

Water pump, doubtful?

Any other advice I can relay is appreciated!!!!

Could still be thermostats AB. What temp are the thermos kicking in? Could the radiator be blocked with bugs, dust etc etc from the trip across? Did he touch the level when he stopped for the hour and a half? When it's cold start it and run and allow it to warm up and see if any bubbles start to form in the rad.

It lost 500mm when he started it the second time.

I think he is pulling the thermo's out now mate so I will ring and make sure he checks anyway.

Could very well simply be bugs and dirt too mate, I'm sure he's gone through that scenario after the trip but will double check.

I'll check in and come back soon...

Cheers Matty!!!

He's checking thermos tonight so ill get back to you mate.

He has noticed the radiator cap is a bit "dicky" (his words) I guess meaning its not a solid fit and may be letting air in under the assumption it could be boiling at 99 rather then 108 or whatever pressure boiling is???

Radiator is very clean no bugs dust, etc.

Ill report back tomoz anyway.

Also, he did notice slight bubbles on the second start up but is on the hope its the cap letting air in. Thermo check tonight, new cap tomoz and check properly for bubbles.

Cap won't really let air in but if it's faulty then the system can't get to operating pressure allowing the boiling point to be lower than if the cap was in good condition. It will also allow more fluid to be pushed out if it's faulty.

Sorry AB, beyond me mate. I would have been thinking thermostats or radiator too, and if that didn't work I would be calling the cavalry.

Ian, I am running 285/75's, and prior to doing the reduction I was sitting at pretty much 2230rpm at the 100kph mark. For me that felt like the engine was revving high.

Evil Twin, my 10% rev reduction 5th gear was from Marks 4wd Adaptors and is just a standard Nissan gearbox fit up for 5th. I was expecting it to run at around 1900rpm, but I think it is doing about 1780rpm. Happy with that too. It really just lopes along and yet still has plenty of torque for overtaking to speeds of around 130kph. Anything higher and it again feels like it is out of its comfort zone. I've had it to 140kph, but haven't yet pushed it any higher.

I don't know what the difference is between the 4L80 & the 4L85, but yes I would expect a 6L80 would be a nice match with this engine. For me, 1st gear in High Range is almost a waste of time. I do notice that it blows a bit of black soot when starting off in second too, but it is just soooo much quicker off the mark than starting in first.

On another note, although the engine torque is awesome in low range 1st, after doing the Maytown Track (old Coach Road from Maytown to Laura), I really would have appreciated a 43% reduction gear, or even better, that 63% reduction that has been mentioned of late. 85% would be too much for the type of 4WDriving that I do, but the ability to crawl a bit slower up some of those rocks would have saved my tyres a bit more I think.

Hiya BenK,

Stolen from the yank forums...
The 4L80 was designed for vehicles up to 8000 lbs. GVWR and with engines up to 440 ft. lbs. of torque.
The 4L85 was designed for vehicles up to 16,500 lbs. GVWR and with engines up to 460 ft. lbs. of torque and towing capacity was up-rated to 22,000 LBS.

Ratios etc are all identical. The 85 is just a beefier torque converter, pinion gears etc

My brother couldn't find his thermometer but he took both thermos out and they were shut.

They are set to open at 82 and boiled them up and they both opened around 30 seconds before the water boiled, one only opened half way but I'll try them at my house tonight.

So we can rule out they are stuck open anyway.

He is buying 2 more today anyway.

On another note, It's a full custom alum radiator. The cap pressure read 13 and apparently the chevs should be at 16 so we are thinking of maybe getting a 15 cap to check out as we do not want to blow the radiator possibly???

Small steps first with checking the easy possible problems so fingers crossed.

Yeah if they aren't opening enough and restriciting flow when its needed it will cause temp issues.

Shouldn't blow the rad mate. Other things should rear there head first (hoses etc).

What sort of temp drop does he get across the radiator?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

Reducing tyre size will give higher RPM at 100 KPH not lower.

From heaps of surfing over the yank sites... 1700 to 1800 ish is about where they get their best fuel economy.

BenK... where did you source your 10% gearing from?

Last week I was talking to two blokes here in Perth, one with the 4L85 and one with a beefed up 4L80 and both reckon best thing ever.
If thats the go then a 6L80 should be goddam awesome as 1st is waaay lower and 6th is even higher overdriven ratio than the 4L80/5's

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I just had a brand new 4L80E auto put in. As a result, Brunswick changed my diff ratios back to 4.11:1, which is why I thought that going back to 33in tires would decrease engine revs further... Is that not the case?

@AB, My mate, who services my truck is a heavy diesel fitter and when he changed the coolant in my radiator, replaced it with the stuff they use in their truck fleet. It is all coolant, not 50/50 and since using it, the needle has never gone past half way in the gauge. If you get the Castrol diesel 100% coolant, he said that that one works well.

These are the things to check:
- Check your thermostats, even tho they appear to work. One may be working but the other isn't or they may have a small blockage, like a bug or some such thing.
-Check the radiator for obstructions, holes, cleanliness. Is the front covered in bugs etc
-Check radiator fan, Viscous Hub seals for oil leaks. Fan should come on when engine is hot and should blow air fairly strongly... If fan isn't blowing strong air, chances are, its kaput.

Hope this helps mate.

Well good news...

Replaced both thermostats and cap and its running like a dream.

Not sure which one was the issue or even possibly a bit of both but the pale look on his face is now recovering...lol

Thanks for your help gents!!


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Another thing for people considering a Chev conversion to check out first is insurance. AAMI didn't want to know me any longer, despite having a rating 1, being over 40 without any accidents, having done several driver training and 4wd courses etc. they dropped me like a hot rock. RACQ also wanted nothing to do with it.

I could only find two insurance companies who would take it on and I went with Shannon's as they were half the price of the other mob. Shannon's also recognized Brunswick Diesel which lowered the premium somewhat I think. I think my premium is around $650 or so for fully comprehensive, which reminds me, I think I need to tell them about a few extras now too. The second mob (I have forgotten now) wanted $1500/year!!!


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenK

Another thing for people considering a Chev conversion to check out first is insurance. AAMI didn't want to know me any longer, despite having a rating 1, being over 40 without any accidents, having done several driver training and 4wd courses etc. they dropped me like a hot rock. RACQ also wanted nothing to do with it.

I could only find two insurance companies who would take it on and I went with Shannon's as they were half the price of the other mob. Shannon's also recognized Brunswick Diesel which lowered the premium somewhat I think. I think my premium is around $650 or so for fully comprehensive, which reminds me, I think I need to tell them about a few extras now too. The second mob (I have forgotten now) wanted $1500/year!!!


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what sort of value did they put on it??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stropp

what sort of value did they put on it??

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Obviously mine is an older vehicle, with 250,000 on the clock, but they valued it at $39K. I thought that was fair.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenK

Obviously mine is an older vehicle, with 250,000 on the clock, but they valued it at $39K. I thought that was fair.

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thats not bad, mine is $1400 for 42k full no claim etc etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Highlander

snip...
Brunswick changed my diff ratios back to 4.11:1, which is why I thought that going back to 33in tires would decrease engine revs further... Is that not the case?

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Nah mate, smaller tyres (IE going from 35 back to 33"s) have to turn faster to give you the same vehicle speed.
The only way to do that is spin the engine quicker.
To slow the engine RPM for a given speed it's bigger tyres OR change to lower diff ratios (not higher) OR change gearbox ratios.

I would suggest that the 4.11 diff and 35's are probably the go for 4WD'ing with the 4L80 ratios... but... probably the 3.9 would be better for cruising however I am by no means an expert.
All I do know is that the yanks swear that 1750-1800 ish is the sweet RPM for cruising with the Chevvies they have in their big pick ups.

Bottom line is it is always a compromise

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stropp

thats not bad, mine is $1400 for 42k full no claim etc etc.

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I think I have an excess for claims though. Would have to look it up again to see how much. Shannon's ask a few more questions to ascertain that you are an 'enthusiast' as well.

Who did you go through?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AB

Hi gents, have a bit of a potential disaster post possibly...

As some of you know my brother just recently purchased his new Patrol after someone rode off his old GU.

Anyways, Its the 6.5 chev non turbo in a GU cab chassis done by Brunswick in WA (not sure of exact type).

He just drove it back from WA to Melbourne and it ran like a dream.

Long story short it was a bloody hot day today and he drove up a long and steep hill to Christmas Hills from Yarra Glen (some of you know the hill) and it heated up to almost boiling but the temperature gauge read 3/4.

It was fine after the hill and cooled on the downhill.

Went to see a customer and it sat in the carpark for an hour and a half so cooled a bit too.

Drove 10 minutes down the road and it boiled again.

He got it home and is in his shed now looking at it but any advice is welcomed.

Praying it has not done the head of course.

The radiator overflow was pissing out hot water so we can eliminate thermostat shut (it has twin thermos too).

What can he check?

Both themostats stuck open? doubtful...

Water pump, doubtful?

Any other advice I can relay is appreciated!!!!

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G'day AB,

I am sorry to hear about the over heating issue, i only wished your brother would have listed to our advice and got the thing checked out!

Regards,

Paul

Also with Shannons, 35k insured for with 282,000 on the clock at time of quote on a 98 model.

Ian, how does your Diesel/Gas setup go with the Chev? Was only recently talking to Highlander about that mod. Where do you mount the gas tank and how big is it? How does it affect your fuel economy?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenK

Who did you go through?

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i went through affinity brokers in melbourne

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RLI

G'day AB,

I am sorry to hear about the over heating issue, i only wished your brother would have listed to our advice and got the thing checked out!

Regards,

Paul

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Yes mate, I mentioned everything you and I discussed...

He's now going to get it tested...lol


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by AB

Yes mate, I mentioned everything you and I discussed...

He's now going to get it tested...lol


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G'evening AB,

Great, news, i am now a happy man, to much money invested to allow problems occur so soon.

PS, DID YOU FIND THAT BLOODY SNAKE? LOL

Regards,

Paul

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenK

Ian, how does your Diesel/Gas setup go with the Chev? Was only recently talking to Highlander about that mod. Where do you mount the gas tank and how big is it? How does it affect your fuel economy?

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Ben, the tank is mounted under the passenger side just rear of the passenger front door, has approx. 23 ltr of useable gas, you can definitely feel the difference when it is on in relation to the power. I haven't had it dynoed with the gas on the chev but it used to give me an additional 9 kw at the wheels when I had the 2.8 installed. With the 120 % increase in the price of gas I only run gas every couple of tanks to try to clean out the system and reduce carbon build up. If gas was still cheap I would recommend the conversion but not any more. As for fuel economy I didn't gain that much in dollar value as opposed to power, if you turn it off at 100, you physically feel the car slow down.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RLI

G'evening AB,

Great, news, i am now a happy man, to much money invested to allow problems occur so soon.

PS, DID YOU FIND THAT BLOODY SNAKE? LOL

Regards,

Paul

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No, I set the dogs out and checked everywhere. Must of moved onto Rossco's house next door...lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ian2011

Ben, the tank is mounted under the passenger side just rear of the passenger front door, has approx. 23 ltr of useable gas, you can definitely feel the difference when it is on in relation to the power. I haven't had it dynoed with the gas on the chev but it used to give me an additional 9 kw at the wheels when I had the 2.8 installed. With the 120 % increase in the price of gas I only run gas every couple of tanks to try to clean out the system and reduce carbon build up. If gas was still cheap I would recommend the conversion but not any more. As for fuel economy I didn't gain that much in dollar value as opposed to power, if you turn it off at 100, you physically feel the car slow down.

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G'day Ian,

I had just discussed this with Ben. I just got told by a fitter on site who had installed gas on his 6.5L and he said there was a 35% increase in power with no down side. He said the simple reason was that gas loves high compression.

The only reason I am not so keen to do it, as for Ben, is the loss of room for camping gear.

Always good to hear that, although until I dyno mine I think a 35 % increase is a bit high but good if it's true.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenK

Sorry AB, beyond me mate. I would have been thinking thermostats or radiator too, and if that didn't work I would be calling the cavalry.

Ian, I am running 285/75's, and prior to doing the reduction I was sitting at pretty much 2230rpm at the 100kph mark. For me that felt like the engine was revving high.

Evil Twin, my 10% rev reduction 5th gear was from Marks 4wd Adaptors and is just a standard Nissan gearbox fit up for 5th. I was expecting it to run at around 1900rpm, but I think it is doing about 1780rpm. Happy with that too. It really just lopes along and yet still has plenty of torque for overtaking to speeds of around 130kph. Anything higher and it again feels like it is out of its comfort zone. I've had it to 140kph, but haven't yet pushed it any higher.

I don't know what the difference is between the 4L80 & the 4L85, but yes I would expect a 6L80 would be a nice match with this engine. For me, 1st gear in High Range is almost a waste of time. I do notice that it blows a bit of black soot when starting off in second too, but it is just soooo much quicker off the mark than starting in first.

On another note, although the engine torque is awesome in low range 1st, after doing the Maytown Track (old Coach Road from Maytown to Laura), I really would have appreciated a 43% reduction gear, or even better, that 63% reduction that has been mentioned of late. 85% would be too much for the type of 4WDriving that I do, but the ability to crawl a bit slower up some of those rocks would have saved my tyres a bit more I think.

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G'day BenK

I am curious to what the cost is for 10% rev reduction 5th gear was from Marks 4wd Adaptors?

Regards,

RLI

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RLI

G'day BenK

I am curious to what the cost is for 10% rev reduction 5th gear was from Marks 4wd Adaptors?

Regards,

RLI

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$1,250 plus fitting ... or 25% the cost of a 4L85 conversion :tongue:

Ooops... typo... meant 4L80, the 85's are much rarer and the Chevs need the better TC but not the increased towing rating (6 tonnes is a tad over our legal limit)

Sorry RLI, until that got bumped up by ET, I had missed that one.

Yes, cost as per above. I am told however that if I want a 4L85E box put in, that it is a ten grand job! That put me right off...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenK

Sorry RLI, until that got bumped up by ET, I had missed that one.

Yes, cost as per above. I am told however that if I want a 4L85E box put in, that it is a ten grand job! That put me right off...

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Holy Cow, that sounds a tad high to me... I was told it was a an easy peasy swap out. I'll be a tad pissed off it isn't.

A crate 4L80 (IE new) with the higher rated TC was $5,000
A prof reco 4L80 manual shift was $3,000
A prof reco 4L80 and valve body with a compushift was under $5,000

The box bolts straight up to the Chev and the adapter for the Patrol transfer case to 4L80 is under $1200

Supposedly the Chev/4L80/adapter length is the same as factory engine/gearbox so the cross member/drive shafts don't need to be worked

I was going for a reco sometime sooner rather than later but if it's 10 grand it will be later thats for sure

Ten grand for install of a 4L85E at Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns, I just double checked. Gryphon work with/for Brunswick, so I'd guess it would be same price over that side of Aus.

I don't know whether it would be worth getting the 4L85 over the 4L80 or not, nor what the price difference is.

I do however have access to a mate with a hoist and mechanical ability, so if a reco gearbox was not a big job, then that is what I will consider doing. I have been very close to wanting to install a low range reduction gear at the moment as well. However I could save on that and put it towards an Auto.