Printable View
on my way home from a fourby on sunday my gu got really hot pulled over straight away let it cool down and checked the water. radiator was full and green as.
i have just had a full reco on the donk new head and all.
i pulled my grill and front spotties of and continued home the temp gauge stayed at norm.
have no idea whats caused it need some help
Did you do any bog holes out 4by 4ing ?
Your Spotties are the most likely causeQuote:
Originally Posted by brendi
Think you need to remove and clean your radiator even get it rodded .
best do it now before the warm weather reaches us, and all the radiator shops are
too busy to fit you in
i did a couple three dogs but notthing to deep diff out in the middle of the big one and it was only door deep
thanks three dogs ill give it a cleen. but what is rodded
they have been ther since i bought the car 2 years ago and this is the first time i have seen temp gauge over halfQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob
Had rising temps with my ute, took the spots off and not a bit of difference.
TD is probably on the money with a blocked rad internal or external, same result. Hosing through the cores may dislodge any mud caught in the fins, DON'T use a gerni as it folds the fins over.
After an engine build is it possible you have an air lock.
On the 4.2 there are 2 small (10mm diameter?) caps on the bleeds, one at the thermostat housing and one at the rear of the motor.
Take them off one at a time and run the motor for a few seconds to expel all the air.
Easier to do with a mate starting and stopping the engine.
Invert a cut off coke bottle in the radiator opening, park with your nose uphill as well..Keep tipping in water and squashing hose
This way you'll remove all or any air bubbles that may be trapped, good luck let us know how you get on.
seems a shame this happens after all your good engine work
I just hope i have not done any damageQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
There is no bleed on the 2.8 from what I have found, the radiator cap is the highest point in the cooling system, And if there is one somewhere, I have yet to find it.....
these are the causes for over heating according to the manual
Overheating Cause Analysis
Symptom Check items
Cooling
system parts
malfunction
Poor heat transfer
Water pump malfunction Worn or loose drive belt
—
Thermostat stuck closed —
Damaged fins
Dust contamination or paper
clogging
Mechanical damage
Clogged radiator cooling tube
Excess foreign material (rust,
dirt, sand, etc.)
Reduced air flow
Cooling fan does not operate
— —
Fan coupling does not operate
High resistance to fan rotation
Damaged fan blades
Damaged radiator shroud — — —
Improper coolant mixture ratio — — —
Poor coolant quality — — —
Insufficient coolant
Coolant leaks
Cooling hose
Loose clamp
Cracked hose
Water pump Poor sealing
Radiator cap
Loose
Poor sealing
Radiator
O-ring for damage, deterioration
or improper fitting
Cracked radiator tank
Cracked radiator core
Reservoir tank Cracked reservoir tank
Overflowing reservoir tank
Exhaust gas leaks into cooling
system
Cylinder head deterioration
And according to the book this is how you refill it and bleed it
—REFILLING ENGINE COOLANT—
10. Install reservoir tank, radiator drain plug, and cylinder block
drain plugs.
+ Apply sealant to the thread of cylinder block drain plug.
Cylinder block drain plug:
: 34 - 44 Nzm (3.5 - 4.5 kg-m, 25 - 33 ft-lb)
11. Fill radiator and reservoir tank with coolant up to the MAX level
and install radiator cap.
For coolant mixture ratio, refer to MA-11.
Coolant capacity (With reservoir tank): ! (Imp qt)
RHD models
Without rear heater 11.8 (10-3/8)
With rear heater 12.9 (11-3/8)
LHD models
Without rear heater 11.6 (10-1/4)
With rear heater 12.7 (11-1/8)
Reservoir tank capacity (for MAX level):
1.2 ! (1-1/8 Imp qt)
Pour coolant through coolant filler neck slowly to allow air in
system to escape.
12. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature.
13. Run engine at 2,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle
speed.
+ Repeat 2 or 3 times.
Watch coolant temperature gauge so as not to overheat the
engine.
14. Stop engine and cool it down.
+ Cool down using a fan to reduce the time.
15. Remove the radiator filler cap and check coolant level.
+ If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with coolant.
16. Refill reservoir tank to Max line with coolant.
17. Repeat step 12 through step 16 two or more times.
18. Warm up engine, and check for sound of coolant flow while
running engine from idle up to 2,000 rpm with heater temperature
control set at several positions between COOL and HOT.
+ Sound may be noticeable at heater water cock.
19. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating
steps 12 through 16 until coolant level no longer drops.
+ Clean excess coolant from engine.
SMA003D
SMA182B
SMA412B
SMA004D
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
Changing Engine Coolant (Cont’d)
MA-
I think there is on under the inter cooler at the back along the fire wall where the heater hoses are, unless mine is an add on.Quote:
Originally Posted by trekster
Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app
Maybe so, I'm used to the bleed generally being at the highest point of the system to get the air out, I'll have to have a look at mine as it would be interesting to know, mine definitely has none on the thermostat housing as that is 1/3 of the way down the motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by krbrooking
Cheers,
Eric.
Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app
2.8s going by the book can only be bled with the radiator cap off re above post tells how its done its an easy job to do
Mine must be an add on then as it's the highest point pretty much in line with the rocker cover.
Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app
on this theme of over heating is the a way to tell how accurate my heat gauge is working?
Mine has it too.Quote:
Originally Posted by krbrooking
As for accuracy, it's extremely accurate if you use it as a cold/normal/too hot indication.
Ecu talk.
thanks for your help guys re bled the cooling system and now all is good atm
could point a thermo gun at your radiator and compare to gauge
I run a water temp gauge as I don't believe the factory gauge gives you enough of an indication to temperature.