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Hi All
Ive just got my new rig Patrol Wagon 2004 3.0l !!! Stoked im sure this issue has been discussed many times before but apparently the catch can is the go to keep exhaust gasses away from rear cylinder (i want to do everything possible to avoid the grenade!!) although by 2004 hopefully these issues were addressed somewhat. Also boost gauge ? EGT gauges ? also intercooler seems a bit loose im guessing the rubber bushes just need replacing but any other issues around this area?
O.k. Sorry for the late reply. Missed this one. A catch can is used to filter the engine crankcase vapours. There is a hose from the top of the motor to the intake hose just before the turbo. The catch can goes "inline" on this hose. The EGR block. There is a plate that goes on the cast EGR pipe on the intake manifold side which blocks the exhaust gases from re-entering your intake.
But before you do this mod I highly advise you instal a dawes and needle valve first. Blocking the EGR will result in slightly higher EGT's and make your boost levels go crazy.
Blocking the EGR is the last thing you should do on the Mod's list.
G'day Monty,Muddy and all,
Reckon I've seen this kweschun a coupla times before. Could that be??
At the top of the forum page there are a few 'highlit' threads which are there because they're so fundamental to owners of 'trolls.
Someone, somewhere, somewhen with lots more knowledge than me must surely have written/answered this type of thread before.
I think it would be appropriate to include a comprehensive list of mods. in order of priority and put it firmly, permanently up there. Love to have my name on it but that's not a goer, knowledgewise.
Thoughts everyone
Col
Hey Col. What the hell is a kweschun?
In order for these mods on a 3Ltr Patrol I would do it in this order...
- Instal Boost gauge. This has to be installed first as you need to pick up boost pressure and then measure boost pressure to set the Dawes.
- Instal EGT gauge
- Instal Dawes and needle valve and set your max boost on the dawes
- Set the needle valve at 10psi @100k's. (starting point)
- Instal EGR plate (You may need to re adjust the Dawes after this)
- Instal Catch can
- Have beer.
Err. Nevermind about my question on your, kweschun. I got it.
All sounds easy when you list it like that !! Best place and brand of boost gauge EGT probably get what you pay for ?
Better brands are up to you, autometer, autron to name a couple, plenty of others out there as well depending on your budget can spend 100 each to hundreds each hahaha, always pays to shop around once you decide on the brand you like.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mont
Cheers,
Eric.
Cheers Eric and mudski will look around gather my thoughts and parts for the mods to be done hopefully in the near future
Where is the bet location to mount the extra gauges saw a picture of the Gauges midway up the A pillar is that an accepted spot ?
The most popular spot for two gauges in on the A pillar. I have a single 2 in 1 McNally gauge and this sits in a gauge cup in between the speedo and tacho.
I'd put catch can higher up on the list not the last. I'd also not bother with Dawes valve without doing needle valve at the same time, you gotta take turbo control away from ECU.
Intercooler is probably cracked already and leaking, any dark patches spreading about the fins near the end tanks? Don't forget that glow plugs timer mod should be high on the list too.
The ridiculous post glow time Nissan has set (5 mins) leads to all sort of problems.
I only put the catch can last on the list because of importance really. I really doesn't matter when you do the catch can. I couldn't agree more about the dawes and needle valve, but you need to do the dawes before you do the needle valve. I'll edit my post to make it more understandable. If fitting both, install the two together and set the dawes before the needle valve.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
The glow plug timer is something that does need to be done too. Something I need to do to my Patrol. Not to forget installing metallic tipped glow plugs too.
Yes intercooler does appear to have minor leaks ! so you think needle valve first ? any recomendations for sourcing catch and plumbing?
Heres a pillar pod for you to look at
Boost and EGT gauge first, than catch can, than needle valve and Dawes valve together at the same time than the rest.
For catch can try Ebay or Western filters ==> crankcase breathers ,they supply a kit, catch can with all the goodies like hoses, fittings, hose clamps whatever.
e.g. -->
Universal Provent kit 16 mm hoses
+ drain valve and hose kit personally I wouldn't get the drain valve with hose from them as it is a rubbish and overpriced though.
The stop/ball valve is available from Bunnings and clear hose too all for princely sum of $10 plus couple of hose clamps. Hose is 10 or 12 mm.
I got the replacement valve from "Industrial fittings" and I just sourced the catch can from them, rest I got from elsewhere.
On mine 2005 Di the inlet end on turbo hose is 16 mm so I flipped OEM hose around to point to the firewall (backwards) and than rejoined its 16 mm end with another 5/8 (16 mm) hose via additional barbed 5/8 joiner to reach the catch can where another 2 reducers are needed to convert from 1" (25 mm) outlet/inlet on the Provent (so a bit of 1" hose is also required) to 16mm so you can run the hose back to intake hose. You'll need to measure the size of the pipe on your truck.
See pics
Provent close up
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/u...psbf4cb31a.jpg
Hoses run
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps320da6b4.jpg
The whole view
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps11193876.jpg
Decent drain valve
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/u...pse1f2daa0.jpg
If your IC has leaks then when you instal a Dawes you wont be able to set the boost pressure right. Fix the leaks first then worry about the valves.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mont
Great pics mate much appreciated Also like the look of the pillar pod !
Looks like intercooler is the first job then ?? any ones particularly good? well priced ?
Hey I have a diesel smart intercooler, all tig weld joins, 30 percent bigger core and only paid about $500.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mont
There is a mob on Ebay, replacement welded cores OEM intercooler for $380 or so and you can keep your old one, no need for core return. ==>Quote:
Originally Posted by Mont
NISSAN-GU-PATROL-ZD30-direct-injection-BRAND-NEW-HI-FLOW-upgrade-intercooler
That's for budget minded.otherwise I'd go for pure ally welding porn intercooler from Cross Country 4x4. That one top of the line TMIC.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/u...psf70721d6.jpg
Cheers
Nice CC cooler but at nearly 15huunge. Is it worth the coin?
I've been thinking I'd save for the CC one but that ebay link has me thinking the other way now.
Me too but then I think. Am I just pissing my money in the wind buying something that may not be what they claim it can do.Quote:
Originally Posted by twisties
Ebay one doesnt look too bad not bad price !
CC cooler alone is probably not value for money but neither is drinking cartons of piss but combined with other mods it is worth every penny. I have bigger scoop, 3" straight exhaust, larger MAF housing, high flow airbox lid, JDVM MAF modifier, dual Dawes...the car is unrecognizable from the stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I'd have preferred FMIC but no one does it yet as a kit and I have no mates who are fabricators.
The OEM intercooler is a joke.
Cheers
I hear ya rummy. You make me jealous with your mods.
Whats the larger MAF housing look like ??
Sounds interesting.
Its a billet housing. You need to modify the air cleaner lid too. The mob who sells the Hpd IC's sell them.
Looks like this ==>Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/u...psc5ce6fab.jpg
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/u...psd38b773b.jpg
Interesting bit of kit. It leans out intake (30% more airflow) so not really suited to non modded stock unit. We that extra air you can put more fuel in so more ponies/torque so diesel chip + other fuel delivery enhancing mods. Definitely made the difference on mine but it really requires dyno tuning or AFR gauge/sensor to make it work to its full potential.
Cheers