PWR radiator

towing a heavy laiden offroad van, cruising down the highway at 100 clicks, egt around 440 degrees, however, since summer is coming along up in central QLD where we are around the 36-38 degree mark. After being on the road for only about an hour the temps are climbing above normal even when slowing down to 95klms and a gear down, they still do not go down. Vehicle has only done 100,000klms. All NADS done.
The only 2 things I can come up with is
1. heat soak in the intercooler ?, and I don't think that is it as it is a new aftermarket ic
2. Standard radiator can not handle the higher summer temps?
Have checked the viscous hub, coolant changed every 2 years
Has anyone put one of these PWR radiators in ? and did it change the temps ?
# please note it is an Auto with a lock up switch and a heavy duty valve body

Hi june . what about thermostat replacement and radiator and header tank caps ? How are your coolant levels ? Your core is not clogged up with mud or bugs or both ?

Good call boots. I was thinking a dust caking on radiator can make a good insulator too....

i have one in my 4.2t and its been quite good now i can tow at 110 with a car trailer on with the foot into it up hills and ac cranked up now problem what soever i have also lifted the rear of the bonnet up a bit to increase air flow a bit witch helped quite a bit as well. I must say pwr make an excelent product and their service is excellent altho they are expensive i brought directly from pwr and it cost me over a grand i would buy another tommorrow if something happned to it
Also i would looking into the dirty radiator and things blocking airflow eg big spotties and do a trial with the rear of the bonnet lifted up and maybe even a are bonnet scoop to make the inter cooler more efficient

Make sure all air is out of the system too, but I would go down to the carwash , WITHOUT pulling the trigger
gently hose bottom half of radiator , or better still remove and clean for a better result.
Might want to read thread by Goat on over heating 2010 model

I have a PWR in mine and just dont have heat issues on road, off road, beach, loaded, un loaded, hooning etc

thanks guys. all caps and tanks are good, no loss of coolant and radiator are in good condition. had a head wind drive yesterday and engine temps are back to normal. it looks like with the cooler air coming at the rad all is good. but this is not always the condition I am going to have. looking at a pwr rad and yes they are pricey. 1200 bucks.

I was concerned about the age of the original radiator in mine, so I fitted a PWR. I hadn't had any cooling issues, but thought if I was replacing, I might as well go bigger. It lasted about 15 months, before being killed by a stick (or something) at Lorella Springs. The thicker radiator greatly reduces the clearance to the fan. Guess what happens if anything happens to get in between.....

worth noting thanks.

and while i'm at it, going to put a water temp gauge in. so anyone out there that's got one. fill me in on where to run line from gauge. eg. does it go to exiting sender. looking at vdo gauge as to look like other gauges I have.

Usually after the thermostat. It wouldnt hurt either to get a coolant level alarm or flow sensor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nissannewby

........It wouldnt hurt either to get a coolant level alarm or flow sensor.

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Agree with that. Saved my engine, I reckon......

so is a coolant level or flow sensor different than a water temp gauge. and if they are different wouldn't a temp gauge tell you loss of coolant eg. water pump failure or split radiator hoses etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by june

so is a coolant level or flow sensor different than a water temp gauge. and if they are different wouldn't a temp gauge tell you loss of coolant eg. water pump failure or split radiator hoses etc.

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Yes they are different. A temp sensor requires coolant around the probe to give you an accurate reading, if there is no water in there you can cook them without the gauge reading anything close to hot as is not a air temp probe.

A level sensor will alert you when the coolant is at a predetermined low point, you can then get out and check for any leaks, hose ruptures etc well before you do any damage to your engine. A flow sensor obviously reads flow, so if there is no water there is no flow, or if the water level is low flow is reduced.

A level sensor is probably a cheaper and easier to install/setup option.

where can I get level sensor? and where does the probe go on the ZD30

nissannewby just got on line and found company that sells these things, and I think it is exactly what I,m after. towing 3 tonne of van 99% the motor is loaded up for a lot of its life [god help us] I have set this Nissan up to handle everything in its path including towing and considering it is a 4 cylinder and not the mighty 4.2 it does a pretty good job. so for the $190 it is money well spent being that cruising down that any where road if I do lose coolant I will have some warning. thanks

The only thing that kept me from going a PWR was the price! OMG

I ended up going a 56mm FENIX alloy radiator that incorporates two inlets on either side of the tanks that can be used as heat exchangers. drove from Taree back to sydney in 35C heat and temps remained steady.

about half the price too.