Air Horn Wiring for 2000 GU

Hi guys, fitting air horns to the patrol and its been a while since I worked all this stuff out on another car so have forgotten a bit. Is the wire going to the steering wheel a ground wire on the 2000 GU DX? I will be running stock horn and air horns separately via a switch. Here is a pic of the wiring diagram I have drawn. Looks even to me a bit complex but that's because I want to use the 5 pin relay to power both horns and the original power to factory horn as the power to the relay coil.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps483edeb2.jpg

So you want to be able to run the factory horn from the steering wheel and also be able to add the air horn into the steering wheel switch circuit when you want it? When wouldn't you want it?

I would power the airborne relay from the factory horn supply. Straight from the horn. My relay is mounted beside the factory horn and is switched from the horn directly. On this basis if you really wanted to be ale to isolate the air horn then put a switch between the factory horn and the relay. Still not sure when I word ever want a "lesser" horn than the Stebel 139db? Why would you. Let em know your there mate ;)

I removed the twin donkey stock Barina horns and replaced with two Stebel air horns.

I need to go to horny anonymous cos I love my horns.

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

So you want to be able to run the factory horn from the steering wheel and also be able to add the air horn into the steering wheel switch circuit when you want it? When wouldn't you want it?

I would power the airborne relay from the factory horn supply. Straight from the horn. My relay is mounted beside the factory horn and is switched from the horn directly. On this basis if you really wanted to be ale to isolate the air horn then put a switch between the factory horn and the relay. Still not sure when I word ever want a "lesser" horn than the Stebel 139db? Why would you. Let em know your there mate ;)

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I probably will never use the stock horn but would like it there for the purpose of being roadworthy and also if there is ever a sweet little old lady that needs a nudge, and if the nudge doesn't work then i'll let her have it. I don't want to trust the stock relay to power the new compressor especially when there has been more than a few occasions that ive just held the horn on until ppl move and this way saves me having to stuff around installing 2 fuses for 2 power inputs to 5 pin relay. I still need to know if the wire going to steering wheel is a ground wire? It has been on past cars but I know that's not always the case. Doing it this way also gives me the option of replacing the stock horn one day with possibly something that has alot more kick.

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Originally Posted by s3uoq

I probably will never use the stock horn but would like it there for the purpose of being roadworthy and also if there is ever a sweet little old lady that needs a nudge, and if the nudge doesn't work then i'll let her have it. I don't want to trust the stock relay to power the new compressor especially when there has been more than a few occasions that ive just held the horn on until ppl move and this way saves me having to stuff around installing 2 fuses for 2 power inputs to 5 pin relay. I still need to know if the wire going to steering wheel is a ground wire? It has been on past cars but I know that's not always the case. Doing it this way also gives me the option of replacing the stock horn one day with possibly something that has alot more kick.

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no no, your not going to use teh stock relay to run your air horns. if you do as i described above your stock relay will power your stock horn as normal and power the New Relay switching circuit and that relay will power your new horn. Easy as mate. does not need to be complex. ;)

If you want a switch in that system then put the switch between the horn and the new relay for sure but i really dont see the point mate.

Also if you have Old School Ar Horns consider junking them in favour of a Stebel Horn mate! They are compact, one piece and fit anywhere and are loud as Fark! 139db all day.


http://www.ebay.com.au - STEBEL

These will eat your multi Trumpets for Breakfast bud ;)

So if you look at this image

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/kevin.y...ng_Drawing.JPG

This is the new relay. The OEM Fuel pump is your OEM Horn and comes directly from your old horn (which is from your steering wheel switch, happy days). Your Horn is the "Pump" in this diagram on pin 30

If you really want a Isolating switch in that circuit then just run the wire from your old horn back inside to a 2 pin inline switch then back out the the new relay 86. Simple.

I am pretty certain that the switch from the Steering Wheel is a Positive switch as the horn is earthed to the radiator support.

Easy as mate, hope that helps.

I used an "ON-OFF-ON" switch depending on my needs, either my klaxton or OE,
Now I'm like Mego and running twin Stebel horns, with a train horn waiting in the wings.
My son has given me my BIG BLACK PUMP to fit in the Patrol somewhere , boy can these things pump.
I feel a locker coming on

Here is the wiring circuit I would run to do what your doing

Attachment 32211

Hope that helps some mate


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Looking at your second wiring diagram it looks that when the switch is closed (no current running through) that only the factory horn would work but when the switch is open (current allowed through) that both horns would work instead of independently. I have tested the wire going to the factory horn and it has a 12v reading so I'm assuming that the horn button would be a ground for the factory relay as this stops an arc when horn button is depressed where as with power running to the horn button you would always get an arc as it connects causing it to eventually pit out and cause problems. Cars I have done in the past have been a grounded horn button and I know some cars apparently have positive running to horn button but seems strange to me. The mates car that I wired up years ago I do remember I used the switch to change ground wires because an auto elec mate at the time said it was an easier option. I'll be playing around with it this weekend so I'll see how it all goes. Should only have to run 2 ground wires through the firewall after cutting the factory horn button wire and rewiring to SPDT switch. I knew there was a reason why I hate wiring stuff cause its always a headache trying to work it all out.

Sure. Regardless though if its. Positive switch or a negative switch the diagram will work. The function will work anyway. Make the whole lot positive or negative. Your choice.

Reading th first half of your response above, you understand what the circuit is doing. Is that not what your after? Either the factory horn by itself of the factory horn and the air horns together right? Simply No Point trying to isolate the factory horn mate? Why bother? Trust me its irrelevant, you won't hear it when the big ones are going off ;)

I have had my Stebel wired using the diagram I drew above but without the isolation switch for about 7 years without any trouble at all.

Cheers MR

Patrols, like most vehicles switch negative via the horn switch in the steering wheel to the horn relay.

All you need to do is cut the Green with a Black trace wire that runs between the horn relay and the original horn switch in the steering wheel. Connect these two wires to your new horn selection switch and wire your air horn relay to switch negative via the same switch.

Or you could just connect your air horns to your fuel pump.......LOL

This thread reminded me I have some in the garage to put in. I have the triple horns. Love them :)

Need them these days, too many who can't drive.
A few here have fitted the Stebel 12v horn All I can say is very loud.
I have a train horn that I'll be hooking up soon but on its own circuit
with air tank and compressor. Have a bit of 12v work to do. Son is Auto Elec
so chances of getting something done is very slim, lol

Got the air horns all fitted up this weekend. Working well and sound great. I have amended the wiring diagram in first post because I had one wire wrong going from factory horn relay to switch but now it is correct. Only had to run one ground wire through the firewall from engine bay which made it easy. I used a narva on/off/on SPDT switch which is handy so now when im cleaning the interior both horns can be turned off by putting switch in middle position. Cheers for all the advice. Always makes it hard when there is more than one way to do something but I'm happy with the way Ive done it