3ltr Smokes when spools/Boost

Hi All

I know it's been tackled before - however I have a different situation here and doing the precautions and maintenance read from my research.

I have a zd30 engine in a 2000 GU - it has a DPchip diesel in it - and it blows smoke while on Boost - however I also noticed that the boost goes flat - seems to be leaking somewhere, but I am not sure.

So what I've done so far

1. replaced oil and all the filters
2. Used a bottle of Injector cleaner

I am planning to do is

1. Change AFM/MAF sensor
2. check all pipes see if there are leak
3. might ring a diesel mechanic or tuning shop

my question is
am I going to the right direction or doing the right precautions? or do I have to do something else
please advise

BR
PBK

yeah all seems right, clean maf with some spray from SCA or jaycar, you'll be surprised, save some coin too.
what number is your chip on if its wound up to say 7 or even 9 it will blow black smoke everytime, dial it back to 5
I've found a happy spot at 5 even towing it's fine, after you remove engine cover check rear right intercooler hose
blue on my motor they tend to pop off if you don't have nads. check and tighten all other hoses, even small vacuum ones.

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Originally Posted by threedogs

yeah all seems right, clean maf with some spray from SCA or jaycar, you'll be surprised, save some coin too.
what number is your chip on if its wound up to say 7 or even 9 it will blow black smoke everytime, dial it back to 5
I've found a happy spot at 5 even towing it's fine, after you remove engine cover check rear right intercooler hose
blue on my motor they tend to pop off if you don't have nads. check and tighten all other hoses, even small vacuum ones.

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Thanks Threedog - I will get a spray from SCA then remove the cover - with the DPChip I just bought the vehicle and it came with it
where is it located? thanks mate

usually cable tied up under the steering wheel more to console side half the size of a box of cigs red/black with clear cover

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Originally Posted by threedogs

usually cable tied up under the steering wheel more to console side half the size of a box of cigs red/black with clear cover

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thanks mate - previous owner will also send me photos where it is located

Only need a very small flat screwdriver to wind it back to 5
very easy to adjust BTW
Once all this is sorted I'd strongly advise that you install at least a Boost/EGT gauge
This will help monitor whats happening under the bonnet, great peace of mind for ZD30 owners
Just one part of the NADS proccess

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Only need a very small flat screwdriver to wind it back to 5
very easy to adjust BTW
Once all this is sorted I'd strongly advise that you install at least a Boost/EGT gauge
This will help monitor whats happening under the bonnet, great peace of mind for ZD30 owners
Just one part of the NADS proccess

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Hi ThreeDogs - I will invest on both gauges by next month

I also just got back from SCA - got myself a MAF sensor cleaner and more injector cleaner

I will wind back the DPchip as I located it already - but how will I know if it down to 5?

There should be numbers where you insert screwdriver zero to 9 , very small may need torch
Spray heaps on MAF don't touch with fingers and when dry re install
Remember where chip is first before adjusting if possible

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Originally Posted by threedogs

There should be numbers where you insert screwdriver zero to 9 , very small may need torch
Spray heaps on MAF don't touch with fingers and when dry re install
Remember where chip is first before adjusting if possible

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It is already on 5 - reckon to go down further?

Yeah but could be a boost issue as well is it sluggish or drive ok
Turn back to 3 and see what happens, What area are you in BTW

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Yeah but could be a boost issue as well is it sluggish or drive ok
Turn back to 3 and see what happens, What area are you in BTW

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It drives like a dream mate - just the black smoke when you give it or when it is on boost
I might wind it back to 3 then - and test drive it when getting lunch - I just cleaned the
MAF sensor as well haven't tested it yet.

However - im not 100% sure but when boosting sometimes it goes flat or boost goes in and out - do I make sense? :-)

Im in Sydney

If you mean you have to take your foot off and start again yes.
That will mean its over boosting and going into limp mode, if you answer yes fit a dawes asap.
Disconnect main battery whilst cleaning MAF re sets ECU

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Originally Posted by threedogs

If you mean you have to take your foot off and start again yes.
That will mean its over boosting and going into limp mode, if you answer yes fit a dawes asap.
Disconnect main battery whilst cleaning MAF re sets ECU

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Yes you are right - its goes flat sometimes
so it is going limp mode?

I iwll disconnect batter now

what is a DAWES?

Part of the NADS set up its basically a manual boost controller,
where as you set the boost say max 14 and it may spike to 18 briefly
Need to get some gauges on being a 2000 model.
I think IMO that you have a few little problems ATM
First clean the MAF and see how you go

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Part of the NADS set up its basically a manual boost controller,
where as you set the boost say max 14 and it may spike to 18 briefly
Need to get some gauges on being a 2000 model.
I think IMO that you have a few little problems ATM
First clean the MAF and see how you go

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I disconnected the battery to reset ECU - cleaned the MAF and wind down the DPChip to 3

I might get the gauges done ASAP - then I might get a boost controller - get them installed
same time

Just test drove the patrol - cleaned MAf , DPchip set to 3 and reset ECU

improved the smoking a lot - and still enough power to my liking

will get a Boost and EGT gauges, also a boost contorller to help me monitor the engine and hopefully less smoke when boosting

In meantime you may want to PM Mudski for pricing on dawes and needle valve.
You'll also need a catch can Provent 200, sounds a lot but believe me will save your motor big time.
plus an EGR blocking plate, all relatively heap mods. give Adrian a call at 4x4 Concepts 0412216415.
That's if you want a pillar pod. I didn't NAD my motor until it had 185K on it, highly recommend
Once catch can is in place your MAF will stay cleaner longer. When all this arrives remove and clean inside your intercooler.
If your IC is oily chances are its leaking, not holding boost. I would recommend Diesel Smart for a change over IC fully tig welded.
lowest price for one, tested to 60psi not 30 like some and 5 year warranty, and around $400 for forum members look in vendors for them.
Sounds heaps but you'll have turn key trouble free driving when its all done its a set and forget thing

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Originally Posted by pbk1776

Just test drove the patrol - cleaned MAf , DPchip set to 3 and reset ECU

improved the smoking a lot - and still enough power to my liking

will get a Boost and EGT gauges, also a boost contorller to help me monitor the engine and hopefully less smoke when boosting

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Hey pbk1776
Where abouts in Sydney are you. I am in Sydney too, Sutherland Shire... I just completed the Gauges and pillar pod..... I have all the other parts for the NADS and I am slowly getting it done... At Least try and do the gauges ASAP.. that will give you feedback what is happening under the hood.... The only reason I have not done the Dawes... I not that techincal minded at all and it's a bit daunting for me.... But I'll work up the ticker to do it soon....

Welcome to the formum as well.... Great people with fantastic knowledge

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Originally Posted by rochjas

Hey pbk1776
Where abouts in Sydney are you. I am in Sydney too, Sutherland Shire... I just completed the Gauges and pillar pod..... I have all the other parts for the NADS and I am slowly getting it done... At Least try and do the gauges ASAP.. that will give you feedback what is happening under the hood.... The only reason I have not done the Dawes... I not that techincal minded at all and it's a bit daunting for me.... But I'll work up the ticker to do it soon....

Welcome to the formum as well.... Great people with fantastic knowledge

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Hey Roch

yeah I am getting the gauges soon - will order it when I get paid from work
not too sure how to install but ill work something out - unless you can help
me :-)

What is the DAWES anyway?

well Gauges and boost controller will be my next mods

I will update my build thread soon

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Originally Posted by pbk1776

Hey Roch

yeah I am getting the gauges soon - will order it when I get paid from work
not too sure how to install but ill work something out - unless you can help
me :-)

What is the DAWES anyway?

well Gauges and boost controller will be my next mods

I will update my build thread soon

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Hey pbk1776

Have a look at http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...rence-Document

Explains it all in there. A very good document. Would love to assist you where I can will your install...

Jason

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Originally Posted by pbk1776

What is the DAWES anyway?

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O.k the name "Dawes" valve came from a bloke in the U.S, Darren Dawes, who invented this wonderfull little valve for VNT, or vacuum operated turbo's. In a nutshell, what this valve does is take away the ECU's ability to control the boost levels. The ECU in your Patrol isn't very smart at controlling boost levels, and therefor you would experience limp mode.
So the Dawes valve is a little mechanical valve which is installed in the vacuum system on the engine and you say bye bye to the ecu's control. But, you need a boost gauge installed first before the Dawes is installed so you know what pressure to set the Dawes at.
The Dawes valve can be installed on just about any vacuum operated turbo, Patrols, VW's and Tritons, to have the final say on how much boost you want.

Cheers.

Then after the Dawes is the Needle valve installation. The needle valve allow you to control the spool up rate of the turbo, or how fast the turbo will spin up when you put your foot down. This is where it gets fun with playing around...

well is the DAWES and Boost controller should be the same then?

NO the Dawes is spring loaded ,the needle valve basically a small tap to allow small/fine adjustment

ONE BIG COMMENT FOR ALL THOSE WITH A CRD, is that on a CRD set up the Dawes valve and the like, take full control from the ECU, WHICH, actually ramps the boost all the way up to 25 PSI when cruising between 49 and 53% engine load to allow for lean mixtures and good fuel economy. Likewise, the ECU lowers boost to under high load conditions to allow for higher power output. The CRD ECU VNT control, on my bus is spot on, but you do need to adjust the VNT stop screw to stop surge at 2000 RPM if you do not have the EGR blocked. My bus makes steady linear boost and i have no problems with limp mode unless i go up a constant hill for like 4 minutes, which never happens here, and i make 15 psi of boost at 2200 rpm and 12 psi at 1500 rpm all day long.

Under stock ECU control i have seen boost as high as 25 PSI.

Cr have a more tolerant ECU. , but this is more a Di thread , could really combine it with others about to fit NADS

thanks fellas

I just ordered my Boost and EGT gauges
will also order DAWES tonight

Best thing you can do, Sounds a bit old school driving by your gauges, but better that than a light come on to tell you the games over.
You'll thank yourself that you did it plus you'll know your motor a bit better, Your model has a vacuum canister on it , but I think this can be by passed.
Mudski has same year so may know more. BTW how are you doing your gauges via pillar pod or dash pod???

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Best thing you can do, Sounds a bit old school driving by your gauges, but better that than a light come on to tell you the games over.
You'll thank yourself that you did it plus you'll know your motor a bit better, Your model has a vacuum canister on it , but I think this can be by passed.
Mudski has same year so may know more. BTW how are you doing your gauges via pillar pod or dash pod???

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dash pod - mrs drives the gu everday she needs habdle to get in

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Originally Posted by pbk1776

dash pod - mrs drives the gu everday she needs habdle to get in

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On the pillar pods you reuse the handle, they look awesome and I find they don't block you vision at all.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Then after the Dawes is the Needle valve installation. The needle valve allow you to control the spool up rate of the turbo, or how fast the turbo will spin up when you put your foot down. This is where it gets fun with playing around...

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I'm slowly getting all the pieces of nads in, but a reputable mechanic over here said they don't usually fit the needle valve as they find it unwarranted.

Love your comments on that....

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk 2

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Originally Posted by oddkid82

On the pillar pods you reuse the handle, they look awesome and I find they don't block you vision at all.

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Might go to the cheaper option of Dash Pods :-)

Check Pattywagons Thread he's selling an original Dawes very cheap. good value.
Also when adjusting ,if you run out of adjustment try placing small stainless washers
behind spring. If you go too far just remove a few. I'm not a fan of stretching springs.
While away I know but worth a thought