GU patrol gearbox rear tailshaft seal. The seal where the back tailshaft comes out

G'day Guys,

Well I had my gearbox serviced and reductions gears put in. A week later my gearbox was leaking from the rear tail shaft seal! I took it back to the so called best in the business place and they did it again.. That was Friday and guess what its leaking again!! Grrrrrrr.. So my question is, is this normal? Is it a hard seal to fit? Can I do it in my garage at home? He did say that they used a single lip seal the first time as they didn't have a double available (already sounds dodgie) but this time they claim to have used a double lip seal. Now I dont know whether to take it back to them! Its also nearly a 4 hour round trip to them.. Only went there as I was advised they are the best!!

Cheers Lewy

ring them and tell them about the seal and how dissapointed you are and what distance you have to travell again they might work something out for you
just saw this in the vendors section an online store
http://www.atocauto.com.au/products.asp?cat=71

Yes was just looking on his page :-) The seal I need is the one behind the handbrake. Its $30 I will end up calling them but I might just loos my temper LOL 1st time no worries but to not get it right the 2nd time is just not good enough imo! I'm pretty good with tools and dont mined doing it my self as I do do most things myself (at least I no I do things carefully and I tend to get it right)... I'm just wondering if its easy to pop the old (new) one out and tap a new one in?

Cheers Guys
Lewy

If its the same as most others I've seen it should be fairly easy to tap out with a screwdriver and a hammer. Getting a new one in it is important to get it in flat, an installing tool (anything round approx the same size as the seal) would be the best way. Also need to make sure your tailshaft doesn't have a groove in it causing the leak.
Before you do it though, have you given the area a good clean up and made sure it is leaking? Not just residue???

Ill get under the Troll today and have a good look at it and I might pull the tail out and make sure its still leaking.. I sure hope its not but it does look to be :-(.. If it is Ill do it my self no way I'm letting these blokes have a 3rd crack at it!!

Well after taking a good look under the Troll it is well and truly still leaking!! So glad I took it to the best people to do the job... NOT!!

If you hang on for a short while. I'll give you good advice.

Must be something really wrong as it isn't too hard to install a seal....

Mic

Well it wasn't leaking when I took it in! Ill be taking it back next week and they better get it bloody right this time! I don't want to do it myself just in case they did stuff something up and I void the warranty. So will let you all no next weekend how it all goes!

Cheers every one for your help
Lewy

Do you have the handbrake drum on the TC or does it work from the rear wheels?
The seal in the pictures is kind of special and I recommend you get it from Nissan. If you have the drum as in the picture, you can follow the steps to remove.

1. NB: Chock the front wheels at the back as well as the front. Undo the 4 rear propshaft bolts at the TC and pull the shaft to one side out of the way. If you dont have space undo the 4 bolts on the diff as well and remove the prop shaft completely. NOTE do not separate the two shaft sections unless you mark both sections and re assemble with the alignment marks you made. The shaft is balanced as it is and altering the alignment will put it out of balance after which you will have to replace more than a seal.
2. Now you will see the propshaft flange and the F...nut holding it to the TC main output shaft. You need a power bar and a lot of power and some penetrating oil spray. Also at this point you can remove the brake drum if you want to inspect the extend of the leak.
3. REPLACE the drum, shim up two opposite flange bolts for the thickness of what the shaft uni joint flange would take upand lock it back down with two nuts.
4. Stick the transfer in 4L 1st gear and chock the front wheels at the back as well as the front of the wheel, I'm just saying it again to prevent you ending up with your wheel pattern across you body.
5. Pull up as much as you can on the handbrake. Now start sweating it out in an anti clock direction on that F nut center of flange. Have a beer after that and recollect yourself. If it came off easily you have an excuse to swear out loud. Both ways you gonna swear anyway.
6. Once that nut is loose you can proceed with taking the drum off, remember to release the handbrake again to avoid unnecessary swearing. After that you can carefully remove the flange, you may need a puller to do that. Avoid hammering away or wedging. A puller! If you dont have a puller you can do the following. a) Turn the F.Nut back on about two full turns. The main shaft head will be visible and recessed now. Stick a 13 size socket in the recessed area to align with the shaft. Now replace the one end of the propshaft as per normal installation. You have a socket in between the flange and the shaft uni now. Tightening two opposite nuts back on. This works like a puller and the flange will come of pretty much enough that you can pull it further off by hand after removing the prop shaft again.
7. With the flange of you can clearly see the condition of the seal.

Those guys clearly Fd up when they thought they can get away with a single lip seal. And, did they actually replaced it in the second run as they claim????
This is once again a special seal and I can describe it to you in detail. Even a twin lip will not just work in my opinion.
See http://www.atocauto.com.au/Products.asp?cat=73

Wow that's an awesome right up! Cheers. I was going to go to Nissan on way home and get a seal and take a look at doing it tomorrow now after reading this! Could there be anything else causing it to leak?

Again cheers for your help
Lewy

Witch one of these seals are you referring too? Could I get it from a Nissan dealer or anywhere else in se QLD lol.

Gday Bundu, Would you happen to know the size of the F nut :-) Its bigger than anything i have so Ill need to go get one this morning..

Cheers Lewy

Great info Bundu

I think it is a 32 socket if I don't have it wrong. Take a shifting spanner, and size it to the nuts' flat sides, an measure gap on shifting with ruler = socket required size. You will need to remove the brake drum assembly as well before you take out that seal. Do not try to undo the H brake cable at the drum, about 30cm stream up of where it enters the drum there is a pivot mechanism from where you just unhook it easy, allow slack on the cable. Where you gonna get it in Aus, I don't know. QLD is unfamiliar territory to me. I'm from Africa which is a problem to start with that's why I refer to the agents, you prob have more options but get the right stuff. Make sure that when you replace that seal you dont damage it in any way. You will probably smile at my advice now: Buy some KY jelly from the pharmacy, lube the circumference of the seal and the seat on the box. Not too much, you want to save some of that stuff for other purposes..... like fitting pipes etc. Tap it in gently with a wood chock. Once you are done there, fill the V between the twin lips with CLEAN grease. Now carefully re-install the flange. The seal has this taper ear (tulip) shape that will face you once installed. Now lube that with some normal gearbox oil, just with your finger. Note that on the back side of the flange ( splines side) there is what looks like a washer. Make sure that is clean because that seats against that oiled tulip. Get the torque spec of that F.Nut and tighten to spec. Hope your problem is solved after that. you can grab that output shaft and wiggle it, there should be no play on it before you mount the flange. Apart from that make sure you have only that amount of oil in the TC as required. Thus fill to bottom level of filler plug. Drive your car UP and DOWN a fairly steep hill an check level again on level ground, fill again if required. If you have auto hubs, use ATF.
Click that Thanks Thumb up button if you think it is good. It is a measure of quality advice to me.

Great advice! And I just happen to have some KY (for fitting pipes of course. ;-).) thanks so much for your help after I'm done Ill take it for a drive up to toowoomba that will test it all out :-).

Cheers Again
Lewy.

Could you manage to replace that seal yet, oil leakage solved? I hope for the best.
Im still stuck with my open TC box. I was advised by the manager to replace the entire box as only option, after I inquired about a price for a single gear at our local NISSAN dealer. MASSIVE price difference there. Africa at its best. Next time I will take the KY along and ask him if his DK can touch his arse. Well mabe O-ring grease instead.

"TAP in the new using the old, plenty of oil, grease
whatever so it slips over pinion shaft without tearing or scratching

Yep all fitted up and no leaks! I used KY and it worked a treat!! Got some pipe fitting happening tonight I'll be using it for too ;-) I used the double lip seal that is listed for the GQ and it fitted in really well. Thanks heaps for your help it was bloody good and much appreciated.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

"TAP in the new using the old, plenty of oil, grease
whatever so it slips over pinion shaft without tearing or scratching

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Hey 3D I did just that too lol the old seal worked well as a tapping devise LOL

Great man, glad you got it sorted. OOPs not so great. PM send!!!