Printable View
Talking about letting air out of tyres with split rims and tubes is a very sensitive issue and not a lot of people are prepared to commit to answer this question, so I won't be offended if you don't.
Q. Is it safe to let down tyre pressure in tyres with split rims/tubes?
Q. If you had split rims/tubes and were going beach driving, what pressure, if any, would you let them down to?
I currently run mine at 45psi. (Cheesecutters)
Ross
DX grunt
Ross do run on beach @ 45 or daily press @ 45?Quote:
Originally Posted by DX grunt
I would think 30 would be the least you would have splits at. I have only dealt with splits on trucks. And realise they are a problem when relocating lock bead ring in. Once at pressure I have never heard of any problems. But I am new to the $wd use of split rims. So I like you will watch for other replies to see if I am on right track.
Tim
Daily @ 45. Thanks for that. I might have to go and ask a tyre dealer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Finly Owner
I'm happy with them and haven't had any problems with them. Haven't let the pressures down yet, either. lol
does your glove box user manual have anything in it for this?Quote:
Originally Posted by DX grunt
Mate, I had split rims and used to go to White hills, I'd dump the pressure down to about 17psi, never had a prob. If you go much lower there is a chance that the tyre can spin and snap the valve stem off, then you have a problem. Drive slow and don't overheat the tyre. Cracking wasn't a problem. If you have a spare tube and a compressor and a couple of tyre leavers, you're good ta go.,Tailor are running ATM too.
And a steel club hammer to tap bead as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by the ferret
Ive got split rims on the yard hack
Ive let them right down (pressure unknown)for a wee incident i had,i never had any issues
Mind you i only drove less than 1/2 a K like this
Thanks guys. I've seen a couple of young guys change a split rim in less than 5 mins.
I've also heard they can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing - and I don't.
That's why I carry 2 spares. One for normal and one for Justin Case.
Note to self. Carry 2 spare tubes.
Nuh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Finly Owner
From what I can figure out, the Telstra set up was to enable them to go to remote areas, and they took off the originals and put on splits with a 2" OME lift (under all that black undercarriage paint).
All 6 tyres are split rims, and I'm guessing that if they carried a couple of spare tubes, that should have been enough to get them out of trouble - the equivalent of 4 spare tyres.
They're relatively easy to take out the old tube and wack in a new one and pump it up...if you know what you're doing.
Ross
Allways tap the lock ring to conform to the rim, put a chain or rope around it to prevent the lock ring becoming a missile, put 5psi in and tap tap tap all around and the ring closes right up,
then inflate to the final pressure, tapping as you go. Face the lock ring AWAY from you when inflating. Folk have died because of flying lock rings, if unsure, don't do it and as you say, carry extra spares.
Hey Rossco;
Check out this link. Not sure if will help you any, looks like hard work to me. Dont think will help you with tyre pressures ?? Just fixing a flat
http://www.ebroadcast.com.au/ecars/Wheels/Split.html.
Cheers Pete
Thanks for the info Pete. I picked up a bit of info from it. Because I've never done it before, I'd prefer to have it professionally done. For the inexperienced like me, too much can go wrong and I could get hurt, or worse. I'll carry the extra tubes Justin Case the tyre repair shop doesn't stock my size, and from what I've experienced, there are too many variations to stock everything.
Thanks, and I'll add it to my favourites.
Take care out there.
Ross
DX grunt
Tools needed:
1 pair of good tyre levers
1 steel mallet (smallish)
compressor and tyre inflator
1 valve tool
Work boots on feet
Gloves can prevent metal splinters.
I will try to explain how to do roadside changes safely with no chains, cages etc.
Make sure the valve is completely removed from valve stem.
With the split rim ring facing up have the gap in ring closest to you.
Place a tyre lever on the right side of the gap, under the ring, and try to pry it up a little.
With the other lever, place it under the notch that should be visible.
Work the ring off by lifting ring up and into centre of rim at same time.
Once the ring is removed you can get ready to remove tyre.
A rock or log etc can be helpful at this time.
Flip the wheel over onto rock etc, and stand ontyre as to push it down. This cansometime be rusted on and may take some work.
Most of this type wheel has a liner in it to prevent tube being rusted to rim.
Once the tyre is moving, stand it on it's edge and seperate from rim, carefully dislodging valve stem from locating hole.
Remove the liner to one side, and remove tube.
Place in new tube and replace liner, tucking in flaps so they cover tube and go down side of tyre.
Begin refitting of rim, remembering to relocate tyre valve stem.
Once you are happy with tyre being on rim, place bead ring on top again. (some have an exact position to be in)
Starting at the left side, hold the end in place with heel of boot, and start rest of ring down with other heel.
Once ring is down, tap with mallet all the way around a couple of times. The bead ring should snap into place.
Now you are ready to inflate once you reinsert valve into valve stem.
Place 5 psi of air into tyre, retap bead ring.
Stand wheel up, and from behind the wheel(ring facing out, and you on opposite side) place another10 psi in tyre, by reaching over the tyre with only your arm as to keep your head behind the wheel.
Once you have a total of 15 psi in tyre, tap bead again by laying wheel down, and working around the wheel, allowing only your wrist to pass over the actual tyre at any time, don't reach across the whole whell, walk around the circumference.
You now have two options, you can turn the wheel over so bead ring is facing down, and inflate in incriments retapping bead to desire pressure, OR my preferred method is to continue as you started, inflating in incriments and tapping bead ring to desired pressure.
THE MAIN THING IS: keep minimal body parts near bead ring when inflating and make sure that bead ring is locked in before full inflation.
No one should stand in front of wheel while being inflated. These Rims are only dangerous when the bead ring has not been locked in correctly, hece, the continual tapping in. DO NOT LEAN OVER THE RIM WHILE INFLATING! IF THE BEAD RING FAILS IN WILL KILLYOU! At least if it hits your wrist/arm you will survive. I have never had one seperate as I am dilligent andalways take my time, and still always stay as safe as I can.
Hope this helps, any questions just ask.
Tim
Thanks Tim for the detailed info.
I'm not confident enough to change one myself. The only tool I need is a mobile phone with coverage....."Hello, is that the RAC" lolol
Thanks again.
Ross
When we do the big meet, I might be energetic enough to do a demo for all to see
Tim
It's ok that you are better at living out your cross dressing desires and leaving the manly tasks to us real men....
ROFLMAO
LOLOL........... Your times coming mate........lolololQuote:
Originally Posted by Finly Owner
You are so mean. BYO tyre. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Finly Owner
Agree with the ferret on lock rings - real hard to tell if they are seated properly. One of the reasons I gave up on split rims.
For extra safety when inflating, slide the wheel under the vehicle, but not under the petrol tank. That way the valve can stay upright and no chains, etc. needed.
If you are worried about possible samage to the underside of the vehicle, put a bag or old blanket (always carry one) on top of the wheel.
Yes, If you go about it in the correct way keeping safety as a premium, there is minimal danger, thousands are fitted worldwide every week.
The biggest danger was with the 10.00. 20 truck tyres, taking upto 100psi, many a lock ring has gone through the roof of various workshops and I know of one man being killed here in WA.
The best way is to watch an expert, ask questions and practise until confident.
Why you'll have one on DX GruntQuote:
Originally Posted by DX grunt
But placing under vehicle you can't watch the bead ring? When they snap into place, its the pump, stop, tap, pump that assures it stays locked in.Quote:
Originally Posted by tkn
I have done these on trucks. I have heard the horror stories. But 99% danger is removed by doing it in stages, and safely.
Agree 100% have doneAcco rims at 100psi. No cage, no chain, no dramas. Lotsa tapping, lotsa caution. No stupidity! And yes shown and warned by old timer. Since have done more and shown others and they have never had problemQuote:
Originally Posted by the ferret
I used to work for Whimps tyre and mechanical many years ago here in Brisbane(and alot of other tyre and suspension shops). They liked to send there staff on seminars. I remember at one they showed a video of a site where the ring had come off. The person doing the tyre did not survive. What they actually showed was the ring embedded in the concrete above. Goes to show how much force is behind these rings when they let go. But with my past experience when pumping split rims up without the cages etc, it is easier to seat the bead with the wheel turned over with the ring facing down. The only major danger is when the tyre seats itself on to the ring. Once you are there turn it over give it a few good taps with a mallet and all should be good.
Be thankful they did not produce 4b's with suicide rims. A 4 piece rim that sill has a lock ring.
Which Whimps?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dhuck
Slacks creek and Salisbury.Quote:
Originally Posted by Finly Owner
OK thought I might have run into @ the old Beenleigh one.
I was at Tyre Power there. I think it's Beaurepairs or something now
On top of the hill? How long ago?
Christ mate they left years ago and about 23 years for me they were on Boundary Street
:hijacked:Yep, on the hill. Geez, I was still riding push bike when you were working there. You have got to be in 40's or more.
40. Only just got my learners when working there
you me and Tony are real local lads then.
That we are mate. Been living in this area for 30 years.
Still got your split rims Rossco? Check out this link. Lots of good stuff from folks who get out there regularly.
http://www.beadelltours.com.au/rim_debate.html
Cuppa
Yeah I have. I've started to develop that 'death wobble' that everybody's talking about. The two spares on the back are still brand new, so I'm gunna put them on the front and see how that goes. It's going in for a major service next week and the mechanic is a Guvvie vehicle examiner, so I'll go through the threads and tell him what everybody else has had problems with. The perfect, fault finding, shortcut - I think. lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
My mate is gunna give me 5 Sunnies, for free - off his GQ - Talk about swallowing my pride. hahahahaha. I just gotta get off my butt and go for a drive. I need a 6th one, though.
Rossco
Dunno about death wobbles on Patrols, but had them on our Nissan Civilian bus (also with split rims) when in SW WA east of Denmark. Bloody scary it was too. Once the steering wheel started shaking it I couldn't hold it. Only thing that stopped the shaking was to slow to below 30kph, not exactly what anyone following would expect. Tried various remedies, but what worked was changing the two front tyres for new ones. It hurt to junk tyres that looked ok & had plenty of tread, but it fixed the problem. I believe the previous owner had run them at to low a pressure. Earlier we had had a noticeable 'step' on each side of the front tyres, but without any handling problems over several thousand kms. By the time we go to WA the 'step' had all but gone, but I suspect that something else must have already occurred to the tyre construction that wasn't readily apparent. The problem came on quite suddenly (over a couple of days) as opposed to getting gradually worse.
Are you suggesting that the split rims can sometimes be the cause of the shakes? If so why?
I had been thinking about maybe looking out for some alloys to save weight & to make lifting the spares up & down a bit easier, but reading here about the problems with wheel nuts coming undone I think I'll stick with steel. When you get your sunnies let me know how they compare in weight to the Telstra split rims please.
Cuppa
Must admit I haven't checked the tyre pressure lately. I'm a naughty boy. I got told to run them at 45psi, which I have been.
Some of the roads over here are cr@p, and I put it down to skinny tyres being caught in the truck 'ruts'. not sure if that's true.
Will let you know.
Rossco
In the current Pat Callinan’s 4x4 mag, the story about the G60 crossing on the Simpson. They said that they were running low 20’s and for Big Red they used 10psi. The G60 was using split rims.Quote:
Originally Posted by DX grunt