Fitting Projectors

Hi all,

I recently bought a set of projector headlights from Mick's Projector Retrofits and fitted them up today. I read all the various comments on legality etc. and whilst I accept the views of those opposed to HID, I weighed the safety of the shite headlights against the best possible options that wouldn't blind oncoming traffic. My vehicle is a Series 1 1999 wagon, and had probably the worst headlights I've ever had to use. The new lights are bloody fantastic and are everything that Mick says they should be.

I just thought I'd post this as one of the issues to be faced when fitting these, is where to locate the ballasts and the new wiring loom. Now I am no sparky at all and have very limited mechanical abilities, but am willing to give it a go if I can. I will post up some pics and if anyone reckons I have stuffed it up or whatever, then please let me know.

First pics are the end result, nothing flash, no angel eyes, devil's eyes or anything else. Just plain projector lights that work brilliantly. Will work out how to download from my phone and post a few more shortly.

These are the 50W projectors and are fitted into aftermarket headlight units from a series 3 Patrol.

BenK

I think there is a write up somewhere in here that someone else did? it was a while ago...

Ok, great. I just couldn't find it. Quite a few posts with references to the projectors and how they look but nothing on how the install went. At least nothing I could locate during my 15 min search.

Yeah there is one in my build thread.

Ok, with Nissannewbie's info already available, I'll make this really quick, and please just let me know if there are any stuff-ups.

First steps - remove the grille and headlights. I also removed the wiper water reservoir as well to give you a bit of extra room.

The kit from Mick comes with the headlight units, two ballasts and a small Morimoto controller with the wiring loom. Pretty simple stuff.

Once the headlights are out, you will need to decide where to fit the ballasts. These need to be within reach of the Morimoto controller on the drivers side, and the controller needs to be close enough to reach the battery. The wiring loom has plenty of reach.

I opted to fit the drivers side ballast beneath the headlight and the passengers side ballast on the side of the air box (as it is a custom steel box and I could do it easily).

The Morimoto unit I fitted on the sidewall in behind the wiper water bottle up as high as I could.

The wiring loom, I covered with some split tube and ran it over to the passengers side, just in front of the radiator. I also brought the earth wire from the passengers side ballast connection, back over via the same split tube, and secured it with the drivers side earth.

Once it was connected up to the battery it all worked first go, and all I had to do was adjust the headlight spread.

One little stuff up I did experience was when i connected the projector to the ballast, I inadvertently crushed the male pin and the high beam didn't work. This was quickly rectified, but I took a photo to show the difference between low beam and high beam.

Attached a couple of pics for reference.
Pic 1 - drivers side ballast sited beneath where the headlight will be.
Pic 2 - a view of the passengers side ballast from the front looking through the headlight mounting hole.
Pic 3 - the orange Morimoto controller mounted up high behind where the water reservoir goes.
Pic 4 - the split tube running across the front of the radiator.
Pic 5 - the difference between one headlight on high beam and one on low beam.

Yeah very similar to what I did. How good are they though, I went with the 35w ballasts but have been thinking I might go to the 55w ballasts.

Yeah, I was drivin around last night testing and adjusting them with an idiotic grin on my face. Should be great on the bush roads. Next up - a kit for the Rallye4000's...

Yeah I have mine coupled with a pair of light force XGT 50w hid's and it is awesome.

Thanks for sharing the experience Benk. Haven't even got headlight upgrades on the very long list yet, but when I get to it I'll be thanking you for the intell.

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A few weeks ago I added in some HID kits to the Rallye4000 driving lights and it is now pretty bloody impressive on those bush roads. I got rid of the spread beam and went with two pencil beams as the Projectors are effective enough without a spread.

I reckon a LED light bar would mate up well now too. The light bar would probably reach out beyond the Projectors and complement the pencil beams HID's.


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If you go the light bar get the spot beam as you'll lose too much light with a spread ,
Also look for Cree as opposed to epistar Led.
They give off great light just not quite enough for driving at 100kph

Hey benk where did you purchase the projector headlights from? I have a gu series 2 and I hate how crap the lights are

Micks Projectors. I think he is still on this forum occasionally.


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Just a tip if you buy these lights. The small and useless breather on the back of the lights. Turf it and run a length of hose from it with a small filter on the end. I totally forgot about tge breathers and after a trip through some puddles they got mud inside them. So then they had to be pulled apart to clean.

Hi Guys

Thanks for the great feedback. I have been really slack not getting on the forums as much as I used to but I do keep my facebook page undated daily and there is always plenty of info on how to install there, FAQ and pics of new builds. I also keep spot light kits which use my new ballast line and wiring looms.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Micks...79539442101843

That's a very good point made above about breathers pretty much all lights have them but the factory ones are next to useless.

Cheers Mick

Lol yeah Mick we know all about those breathers hey? Awsome light too Mick BTW.

Are you still doing the 2.5" kits Mick??

Yes mate I still do the 2.5 in D2S mini, FX/R, FX and H1 projectors but most use the 3 inch D2S as these are a better all round set up and bolt in.

Cheers Mick