What do I need to fix rust

Have booked a couple of days off work to fix the rust on the roof and in the gutters of the GQ. Its not massive, a few small spots nad maybe one or two 50c coin sized holes (I hope). Now I've got the following so far:

Seam Sealer
Spray paint cans
Spray primer
Rust Kill (not the household variety, normal automotive phosphoric acid)

Now I was planning to clean out the gutters, rotary sand them and then rust kill, prime and paint and then seam seal them. Anything missing here? Should I use a paint of primer rather than spray?

For the roof holes... dig out rust, rust kill, prime, hammer hole in a bit so I can glass over, glass it, prime, paint..... Any advice here? What glassfibre kit to use, what paper to sand with etc?

The seam under the gutter is rusting where the existing sealant has come away. This is gonna be a bastard to clean out and kill. Help !!!

I'm mainly asking these things as once I have the truck in the garage I don't wanna have to keep popping out to the shops to get stuff (especially if its raining outside !!). Wanna get everything in advance

Any other help appreciated....

Regards
Flash

Has Sikaflex replaced drip check ????
Heaps of wet and dry.

I got 'Tiger Seal' for the gutters. Assume I can use that for the gap under the gutters as well. Its just nigh on impossible to open the seam up to clean out the rust and get rust kill etc in there.....

Flashman,

I would pull back the roof lining and throw some rust convertor / fish oil in from the other side as well..... depending on how long you want to keep it....

Mic

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Originally Posted by happygtu

Flashman,

I would pull back the roof lining and throw some rust convertor / fish oil in from the other side as well..... depending on how long you want to keep it....

Mic

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Had a query about that on another thread. It seems its too hard to do. There is almost no access to that part of the roof. It would actually be easier to drill small holes from the outside along the roof and spray in from there. Not sure I'm brave enough to try that though

You need to get rust proofing in the roof so you will have to drop the hood lining and get it in there after the repairs are done. Worst case take it to a panel shop with the hood lining out or down so they can do it for you or its really a waste of time fixing the rust as it will come back a lot quicker then if you had rust proofed it.

Don't drill holes from the outside or it will only cause more rust and look silly.

Also flappy discs for the grinder and a wire brush for the drill will save you a lot of trouble when removing the rust. You will also need wax and grease remover or the paint will fall off.

Cheers Mick

Thanks Mick... thats actually not a bad idea.... gonna be pricey though I guess (it is Perth after all)

I started digging the rust out and as usual its worse than I expected. Am gonna cut some sections out and try and get in and around the back of the outer skin with a brush or pad soaked with rust converter and then some paint. Try and slow it down a bit... And then gonna fibreglass it up. Anyone know of a small 'reasonably priced' power tool with a small (around 40-50mm) cutting disk. Dremel is a bit pricy... Have a very thin 100mm diamond blade on the grinder, will that cut steel? was used for porcelain tiles before..

You can use dremel bits in a small drill as well mate. From memory mine uses a 3/8 shaft for most of my cutting attachments. Make sure you use the correct cutting discs though. The link below is what you need and you can get them at Bunnings.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dremel-5-...item2a078766c3

Ideally I would be using 1mm thick 100mm metal cutting blades in a 100mm grinder. No the Diamond blades will last 2 seconds and it's an ugly cut compared to metal cutting blades.

Cheers Mick

If it is that Flashman, i would cut out the sections and then cut out some new tin pieces that cover the edges of the holes by at least a couple of centimeters, and braze them on, after using the rust converter.

Try to cut pieces where you can add a right angle fold into the gutter for extra strength.

Welding will distort the panels more, and mean a bit more grinding back.


Then skim coat it, sand and paint.

Mic

Damn, I was in Bunnings today but didn't seen any metal cutting blades... Any old excuse to go back I suppose.... Whats best ting to paint inner panels with to prevent rust coming back. Have Rust converter but would some sort of epoxy primer be the go or perhaps some kill rust enamel?

Kill rust enamel primer will be fine.

Thanks Mick

Let me introduce you to this ,

http://catalogue.3m.eu/en_GB/GB-Mari...-_Amber~nocode

If you dont mind smell on a hot day , mix the can stuff with old engine oil and spray it in with a body deadner spray gun .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by happygtu

If it is that Flashman, i would cut out the sections and then cut out some new tin pieces that cover the edges of the holes by at least a couple of centimeters, and braze them on, after using the rust converter.

Try to cut pieces where you can add a right angle fold into the gutter for extra strength.

Welding will distort the panels more, and mean a bit more grinding back.
Then skim coat it, sand and paint.

Mic

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Keep a bucket of cold water beside you when welding with cloth rags in bucket , every couple of tacks wipe over with a wet rag. It will quench the steel as your welding.

+2 for fish oil on the insides (under roof lining) when you are finished with the outside. I've just done my MQ, should last another 20 years now LOL!

just remember that when using a rust converter, you NEED some rust there for the chemical reaction to occur.
You should only be removing loose,flakey material with sanding discs,wire brushes etc .
The secret is read the instructions and follow the time guidelines for application as rust converters are not a wipe on, wipe off kind of thing.

Look at por15 paste specially made for gutter sealing brilliant product.

Right, rust all cut out. Not too bad just two smallish patches on passengers side (unfortunately one on rear corner). Don't have access to or money for welding metal in so have glassfibered it in. Its actually pretty good as the fibreglass goes between inner and out skins so very little chance of it moving. Then fibre filler on top and then normal filler. Radius on corner was a bar steward but I got it pretty much perfect. All gutters sanded back to bare metal as was the sides of roof up to the radius. All primed (3 or 4 coats) and sprayed up (4 coats). Just got to seal the gutters.....