Help adjusting fuel pump td42

Just finished turbo'ing my 89 td42 and now it's time to add more fuel to the party! I was told the fuel screw is the one on the back of the governor, that makes sense, the screw there had somekind of wire sealing so obviously it hasn't been touched for a long time if ever. If it is the screw, is there a cap over the screw? Looks like it but i don't want to do anything until i have more info... Can't find anything on the web regarding this matter, and no pics.. Help will be really appreciated!
P.s. sorry about the lack of english.. With Regards, Jóhann.

Nothing? Where are all the experts that i have read threads from that lead to me turbo'ing the old beast! :)

Hi Johaan,

It is a screw on the back side of the pump for sure. Sorry always had mine adjusted by a Pro.

I have changed your thread title to get you some more interest mate and see if there are a few guys here that have fiddled with that screw.

Normally I'd say not to mess with it and take it to a Dyno but assume you don't have that option? Also consider that you should also add a Pyro Gauge to monitor your exhaust temps and also and most importantly add a variable boost controller or your wasting your time mate.

With fuel you need boost. A Boost gauge would be a winner to mate.

Good luck with your car bud

Yes there is a screw and it normally has a covered wired onto it, they do this to know if its been tampered with for warranty purposes but that doesn't effect you.
The screw is just under the return fitting on the back of the pump and next to the throttle cable. I'm with the above post if you don't already gauges are a necessity if wanting to add fuel and boost.

If you have the gauges then adjust the screw a quarter of a turn at a time until your happy and exhaust temps aren't excessive. 500 degrees Celsius is the general safe limit post turbo

Thanks a million! I have already fitted a pyro and boost gauges, the pyro is post turbo. And yes, no dyno tune available here on our little rock but there is a diesel workshop and they told me they couldn't help me unless i brought the pump with me so they could put it in their tuning bench. I fitted in the car a water cooled AXT turbine that i had rebuilt by a certified Garrett workshop and they, to my surprise had all the original parts for it. Why do i need to add variable boost controller? Is it not enough to tune the wastegate arm until suitable boost is acquired? I have the oppurtunity to buy another td42 that is built 93 and has a broken crank but it has the rotary fuel pump, will it be better suited to use for turbo purposes like i have read in some post around here or should i have the inline pump upgraded if not satisfied with outcome of tuning? Thanks again guys, little if none knowledge about this motor around here, and specially the inline pump.

I thought we were talking about a rotary pump. A rotary is far easier for the general punter to play with. As your diesel shop said its most likely it will have to calibrated on a bench to supply more fuel being an inline pump.

Go and search Patrol4x4.com
A couple of the guys there have turboed the inline pumps with success.

Marty

how do you know when have the right fuel mix to egt gauge temp right if that makes any sense. I got a turbo put on my patrol before easter. The mech adjusted the screw half a turn. i went away for easter towing a camper and half way up every hill my egts got up to 500 so had to back of. I adjusted it before we came back a qtr of a turn anti clockwise and it didnt make a difference if anything worse and terrible fuel consumption. Should i add more fuel.

Maybe add a little more Boost mate. More fuel will make it worse.

500 post Turbo is OK mate, at that point you want to think about levelling accelerator out your pedal and just dropping off a little and you will see your temps pan out or drop slightly. Your bad rev zone is about 1800 to 2200rmp, at that revs you will be struggling to make good boost and over fuelling and up go the temps. your car will probably be happier up a gear.

Hope that helps.

cant add more boost. it already boosts up to 12 psi under full load and was told it was set at 10. Yeh i let it get to 500 then back of. I find going back a gear drops the temps quicker then dropping the revs. Even on it own with no trailer it gets hot up hills. I'm thinking og going back to stock fuel setting and see what happens but get near 20l'/100k's with the camper at around 750kgs is a bit rich i think. Even with my 7x5 flat trailer that weighs near 100kgs empty the economy is bad. it need a pro tune but time and funds arnt on my side and neither is living in a country town

Nah mate your TD42 will very happily boost to 15 all day mate. The standard Actuator is set at around 10psi and MTQ preset theirs at 11 but fitting a variable Boost controller will allow you to wind up the boost to something more reasonable at about 14 to16psi and have a very happy car all day.

As you explain and as noted in my previous post your temps get better with a gear change and that because your getting out of the Bog Zone which is low boost below 2200rpm. At those revs you turbo is not quite spooling enough and looking for max fuel to boost but not getting enough so tries harder and gets hot. Increase the revs or back off the throttle slightly and up the boost and you will be blown away.

Not enough Boost is clearly the problem as your temps are consistently too much fuel. Match the fuel to the boost and it will improve dramatically

Above is simplistic and not technically correct theory but the result is what you need mate

Think opposite to petrol, more fuel on Diesel is more black smoke and higher EGTs
over fueling.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Nah mate your TD42 will very happily boost to 15 all day mate. The standard Actuator is set at around 10psi and MTQ preset theirs at 11 but fitting a variable Boost controller will allow you to wind up the boost to something more reasonable at about 14 to16psi and have a very happy car all day.

As you explain and as noted in my previous post your temps get better with a gear change and that because your getting out of the Bog Zone which is low boost below 2200rpm. At those revs you turbo is not quite spooling enough and looking for max fuel to boost but not getting enough so tries harder and gets hot. Increase the revs or back off the throttle slightly and up the boost and you will be blown away.

Not enough Boost is clearly the problem as your temps are consistently too much fuel. Match the fuel to the boost and it will improve dramatically

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even without an intercooler

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Think opposite to petrol, more fuel on Diesel is more black smoke and higher EGTs
over fueling.

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According to my brother who was following behind there was little to no black smoke coming from the exhaust.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BLKWDW

even without an intercooler

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Yes for sure mate. At the end of the day you have a gauge so your in control. Fit a boost controller and have a play.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Yes for sure mate. At the end of the day you have a gauge so your in control. Fit a boost controller and have a play.

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Kool will have to wait till after the trip this next weekend unfortunately as dont have the time of money before then.

Will it also fix my fuel consumption problem

Thanks for this info guys. I was going to tweak mine a little as its non trubo. But ill wait for egt to be installed so I can monitor any changes. Also looking at a new exhaust to open it up a little.. I reckon 22 years of diesel soot would not be helping things...

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

is this a td42 engine or a sd 33 i am unaware of inline pumps being fitted to td 42 engines, here in australia anyway.

They are rare in aus but do exist