Fuel, water and going on that big trip.

Fuel and the outback – Food for thought…

Just thought I’d offer a bit of advice with regard the owners going or contemplating going outback. Seems to be a lot of misinformation on this issue. In particular many members seem to be confused as to why their fuel systems cause grief away from the big city. Here’s why…(and a few tips on fuel systems ) – take this advice or leave it – I don’t mind, but anyway good luck on your travels.
Okay, so you have your fourbie (Patrol of course!) and your big trip approaches, what to do? How to prepare your fuel system?
There are a couple of assumptions here = firstly, if your Patrol is new or near new then – off you go!!!
Here’s the problem; YOUR Patrol is not new or near new, so here’s what happens…
Your fourbie is a few years or even many years old…For the past few years it has been used mainly around the city – maybe a bit of bush work, but nothing to get in a tizz over.
So in your fuel tank, life goes on as usual. Over the years different bits and pieces and lots of dirt have accumulated in the bottom of the tank. Also over the eons an amount of water has set up home slowly rolling around in the tank as you drive to and from work and the park etc. How much water – who knows?
You change your fuel filter regularly and so no drama. Never ever picked up a bad load of fuel from the local servo huh!
Right o’ the big day arrives…Yooohoo off you go – Big Red here we come.
You now drive into a desert and start to deal with the outback issues. You now burn a lot of fuel and as your fuel tank level drops a lot say to a half or a third of tank, something happens. The dirt and water that has resided more or less happily in the bottom of tank (well below the level of the pick-up tube) now takes on a life of its own. As your fourbie leans violently left and right and the hill climbs and decents happen – the fuel tank sloshes around like a Washing Machine.
All the dirt stirs up into the fuel as particulates and is taken into the fuel system, worse the water that resided happily below the pickup tube now emulsifies into the fuel as both solid water and water in suspension.
The dirt begins to clog your filter and this could start to affect the engines performance, the motor begins to stutter and run rough.
Worse yet the water now does it’s tricks and acts in two ways. Solid water goes through the system, some is caught and visible in the bottom of your aftermarket, super-douper fuel filter that has a water separator bowl in the bottom. But those clear plastic bowls are virtually useless – they work on the following principle – gravity affects the water as it enters the filter and so it ‘falls’to the bottom of the filter – great theory but they don’t work. Sure they will catch a small amount of water but most water will simply swirl through into the engine through the injectors. Solid water does not cost $1.50 a litre from servo’s for one good reason – it does not burn. So now it presents itself in your cylinder via the injector and hey presto, some fuel and some water – engines misfires and carries on like a dog. Contrary to popular belief the water isn’t doing severe damage but the engine bangs and splutters as the ecu computer does it best, trying to sort out just how many cetanes are in this fuel. The dirt is adding to the misery by clogging the available supply pressure. Then the water in suspension adds it part – some water has emulsified into suspension inside the fuel. This fuel is also injected by the injectors and if the percentage of water is high enough it will be a sort of a ‘part-time’ fuel and will misfire and cause other mayhem.
Now your engine stops and you realise exactly and instantly what happened and whose fault it is. We fuelled up at Maree or William Creek or Oodnadatta or Uppercomebuckwest. Those bastards sold us bad fuel – simple the bush servo’s have low standards and the fuel is old cause they don’t sell a lot, so those bastards caused me all these dramas…I’ll never buy fuel from… then choose the last visited brand name…BP, Caltex, Esso, Oz Fuel, again…goes the call. My city fuel station never caused my 4x4 to blow up, cause they have good clean fuel etc , with high turnover.
So you can see it’s not the fuel in the outback servo, it’s the shit that’s been living in your fuel tank for years…So please, no more …”I’ll never buy from whop de whop brand again”.
So how do you stop it. There is no way of knowing how much dirt and water is resident in your fuel tank before your trip. If I were going seriously bush, I would remove the fuel tank/s and drain them and dry them and then you will not have a drama in the bush. That’s a lot easier than trying to sort it out in the middle of the Simpson etc. It takes years for that crap to build up in ya tank.
Simple, clean ya tanks out before ya go…
Might be an idea to carry a spare fuel filter too. I work with aviation fuel. The filters that filter out water from the fuel are totally different to the ones that filter out particulates, so no matter how many microns it says on the box unless it’s about a metre long and certified to remove water it’s just an expensive particulate filter. I have used those aftermarket water type Super double XX, triple extra whatever filters…on boats, they do not work. They are not water filters they are just very expensive particulate filters with a clear plastic bowl at the bottom. They don’t work cause they can’t work properly, at least where water is concerned. Want a real water filter – can be done – got a spare five grand and one cubic metre space under the bonnet???
Also, the other big consideration when going mountain climbing with your 4x4 is the cooling system. You have been driving the kids to school for years on the tarmac. Then your gunna heavily load your vehicle, lower the tyre pressures to 18 psi or so, and drive hundreds or even thousands of k’s, in soft and deep sand and bull dust roads, in day time temperatures double or triple what your car is used too. No wonder as the temperatures and pressures rise, your cooling system gives up the ghost and boils away…
With this one, I would drain and refill the cooling with a quality coolant 3 months before the trip. Inspect and change the fanbelt if required, and carry a spare fanbelt – learn how to change your fanbelt – before you go. Local mechanics will usually show ya for free! That’s enough prep, if it boils after that it was just too old!
Lastly, buy an EPIRB. They cost about $250 and when you set it off (assuming you are really in the shit) a screen flashes on a public servants desk in Canberra…and they are obliged to investigate it until they find the source – that’s you…sort of a guaranteed rescue arrangement – doesn’t get better than that!
Finally, travel in convoy and you’ve got your own rescue tow truck…The other guys Patrol can tow your Landcruiser to safety! Happy travels…Steve L

And EPIRBs can be dual registered against your boat and 4WD.
Good post mate.

That's one way of scaring people from leaving the city and taking their 4x4 to the outback ;(
But I do agree in extreme situations that is exactly what can happen

Good write up mate.. thus why I always run a tank to E before filling but I will be pulling tank out, radiator out and nee belts and hoses before our big trip

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nisshead

That's one way of scaring people from leaving the city and taking their 4x4 to the outback ;(
But I do agree in extreme situations that is exactly what can happen

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If that scares them, then they probably shouldn't be doing a solo trip out there!

Great post.
Should you be going out there by yourself? Only for the extremely well prepared and very experienced. The history of Australian Outback travel is tragically littered with the bodies of those who didn't meet those requirements. Recent history, too!!
And relying on a response to an EPIRB is irresponsible. That is not an acceptable "Recovery Plan". Or perhaps it was stated with 'tongue in cheek'. While EPIRBs are great, abrogating your responsibilities for your own safety to 'some public servant in Canberra' does a disservice to all 4wdrivers who love getting out there.

Thanks for the info, Steve. What do YOU do about getting rid of water? I assume you haven't spent $5k on a one cubic meter filter.

Thanxs for the replies guys, it’s nice to see people reading suggestions that hopefully may help in the future.
Nisshead, I certainly hope I haven’t scared anyone from venturing out into the bush, just wanted to point out an often overlooked important preparation, that can prevent one possible cause of unnecessary and unwanted drama. As I said you don’t need all the fancy expensive filters, just prep the tanks before you go. It seems to me that some people advocate buying aftermarket filters that are in essence exactly the same as the one Nissan fitted at the factory. That has to be just a waste of money. My other point is that if you tanks are clean prior to you leaving, then they will remain clean during your trip, as this mud and water takes years to build up.
Remember that stirred up mud is not really a drama unless it blocks your filter (this happened to me) but even then changing the filter immediately fixes the problem. But water can cause dramas and then when you fix the problem, if there is still water in the tank, then the problem will recur (this happened to me with a boat some years ago).
Exploremore, I’m not suggesting that people should travel alone to remote areas. If I was going back-a-beyond I’d prefer convoy for obvious safety reasons. I agree the outback is littered with human tragedy (those two young blokes a few months ago, that died only 16 km’s from their homestead is a stark example).
Also, I don’t suggest that EPIRB’s are a Recovery Plan, but they are a great Emergency plan. They can literally save your life and your family members life. Mobile phones and radios are great until they are out of range, then they are ballast! Remember the public servant in Canberra is paid to sit there and assist you in times of great personal emergency – don’t die because of typical Aussie humility. A great example happened last month. My brother flys for Coastwatch.
In April this year a guy was approached in yacht and spoken to by the Coastguard crew. He was an Aussie and stated he was low on water (he had in fact already run out) he was again spoken with a coupla days later and gave strange replies, but again made no request for assistance. The aerial patrol then issued a mayday on his behalf and when a vessel found him later that day he had died on his yacht. That was just one month ago – and that one didn’t even make the papers! On the opposite side of the ledger, I recall (when I was a copper years ago- and epirbs were just new) a Canberra bushwalker scoffed at his wifes present of an Epirb and then went out bushwalking alone, as he regularly did.
During the night, he badly broke his leg and the dude was so cool, he waited until early morning and set off his brand new epirb. About three hours later a chopper hovered overhead and plucked him up to hospital. Imagine if he hadn’t had an epirb – massive aerial and foot search would have been launched involving hundreds of police and SES volunteers, he probably would not of been found and his family would have grieved for years (and lost his income perhaps).
So the inconvenience of one aircraft and one vehicle assisting you in an Emergency is a whole lot cheaper and efficient that mass grid enacted search patterns in last known areas!!! Heaps of people die through lack of water, not starving to death, you only got a couple of days without water, so I see an epirb as a must have – for Emergencies only, and as has been pointed out they can be used in a boat or fourbie – I got one in my boat that I will take if I go bush.
As for getting rid of water, I don’t worry as my Patrol hardly gets dust on the tyres, let alone remote tracks. But when I do plan a big trip, I will clean my tanks . Also regular use of Fuel Doctor can help mop up water in the tank, but how do you how much you have in there – none, some, heaps? I guess regular use of such treatments may mop up all the water and maintain the water free tank, but if I were planning to do the big trip I would clean the tank all the same I think. Of course all this assumes you don’t have a simple drain plug in the tank that you could remove and let any water drain out, but not many vehicles seem to have them these days.

Happy and Safe travels,
Steve Lane – Cairns FNQ

great post every few years i pull the tank out of my boat 160 lt each time this is what comes out , i use a well known brand of filter as well , and fill after each trip to try and keep moisture out , its a long way to paddle when 15 mile the other side of moreton

steve

You make some excellent points, Steve.

Yes I agree that anyone venturing off the beaten track should have an EPIRB, PLB, SPOT (or similar) or, at the very least, a SatPhone. My point was that they should not be the only plan.

Earlier this year I encountered a guy on the edge of the Nullarbor who did not have a tool bag. His rationale was, "I have Nissan Roadside Assist". He was in a non-mobile area. Smoke signals or mental telepathy were his plan I suppose. And where he was, NRA (or their agent) were hardly likely to even contemplate coming to his aid.

Some years ago I came off my motorbike in the Simpson Desert, broke my leg and spent a night out there with a half a bottle of Scotch as an anaesthetic. I suppose someone will chip me for choosing Scotch over an EPIRB but at that time they weren't that readily available, were too big for a bike and hellishly expensive (bit different now). I got to Alice Springs hospital without any search and rescue dramas.

I've seen well-prepared vehicles stopped by a broken '$2 part'. That's when the seven Ps come into play. Like making sure you have a clean fuel tank. Like having a well thought out recovery plan. Like driving a 4WD rather than riding a motorcycle. :)

Over many years of outback travel and adventuring I have never bothered to clean my fuel tank (I will be doing so now) and, yes, I have had some 'issues'. Always blamed it on the fuel supplier. The manufacturers don't make it easy by not incorporating a drain plug into their tanks. I wonder what their reasoning is?

Although I haven't tried it with my main Patrol, I have drained a tank by breaking into the fuel line and connecting an external 12v pump powered by a battery pack. Worked ok and easier than removing the tank.

Thanks again for a good tip, Steve.

Gaddy, that is amazing. Just what I'm on about, scary for me because I just bought a new boat, but my boat tank is sealed and fitted so I can't get at it to clean it, so I intend to use Fuel Doctor regularly to at least keep out the water.
Exploremore, excellent points very sage advice and I agree with the seven P's, planning really does make the difference I think.

Happy travels....Steve

For in built tanks there is a mob called fuel doctor , they can drain and vacume tanks on site , my brother in law is a out board mechanic , they use them built in tanks

Steve

On my GQ, I used the drain plug to drain all the petrol(and possible water). Then you remove the drain plug screw completely and let the tank dry for few hours(or a day) or so. Then you can use a vacuum cleaner to get rid of any left over gunk. (And it's a good thing to not to put that petrol from the bottom of the tank back in the tank, even though it looks crystal clear, instead I used it for mower and generator)
With an LPG tank, i would empty it completely and then remove the tank first. Then take out valve plate. I did this on one of the tanks, but need to be careful. There may be some liquid gas left(yes, that means severe cold burns) inside the tank due to the refrigeration effect from gas hissing out of the tank.
I discovered it the hard way and luckily I was wearing gloves when liquid LPG poured onto my hands and feet. Before, I thought all it's needed is the pressure to keep the gas as a liquid inside the tank. Well, apparently, minus degrees temperature can do that too. All that happened because I let the last bit of gas to hiss out of the valve half opened, creating strong refrigeration effect,which i didn't have a clue about before. It was scary to see LPG liquid pouring out of the tank on to the floor, wondering whether I've suddenly ended up in Antarctica. This is probably one of the reasons LPG fitting stuff are highly regulated, requiring a license to fiddle with them.

Experience wise it was good, since there was no mishaps. Next thing was to clean the interior of the LPG tank for possible gunk, which I didn't do and instead reconditioned the exterior of the tank to look like new.(So, I could get it retested without tester complaining about the raggedy condition of the old tank).

May be somebody here can shed some light here about this, whether its' worth cleaning the inside of an LPG tank for any possible gunk build up??!!
It would be great to hear from an LPG techie here.

great post, thanks.
currently changing the filters etc before our big trip, and trying to replace our fan belt. Will take a spare just in case.

Going in convoy so hoping help at hand with the extra numbers