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I was stuffing around on Ebay and stumbled upon this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Ins...ht_1825wt_1138.
I've seen this sort if stuff in magazines but never really heard of it on a patrol, whats the deal? is there actually and benefits? It says that the turbo spools faster, is that true?
The turbo heat beanie helps keep engine bay temps down but also keeps the turbo hotter, the wrap is good for stainless steel to make it cool slower so it doesn't crack but on mild steel it causes cracks. Its really only worth it if your heat shield is missing IMO
Not worth it. Ceramic coating is the way to go.
Anything you can do to maintain heat in the system upto the turbine is good.
More heat, better corrected gas flow for more drive on the turbine, so yes it should spool a little quicker and be more effecient.
I have everything wrapped, including my exhaust for about half its length.
Ceramic coating does the same thing.
Marty
Do you have any issues with the wrapping retaining moisture? While the point you make is good I have seen exhausts wrapped in that turbo beanie exhaust insulation stuff and once wet holds onto a bit of moisture and the exhaust condition goes down hill. I know it's only minor but something to think about possibly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambill
To be honest I have never had a exhaust on long enough to notice anything.
Changing turbo on the weekend, I will have to unwrap the dump, I'll have a look.
No issues with moisture, it all dries fairly quickly once running.
Marty
Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I know its a different situation but on the generators at work the have that wrapping on the dump and exhaust (which is flexy pipe), and in less than 18 month and about 5000 hours of service the flexy pipe has pretty much desinterated. The flexy pipe is a lot thinner material, so at a guess a decent exhaust should last a fair bit longer??Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambill
Marty, what kind of turbo are you getting???
Cheers
Benny
Hmmmm still Garrett based on a 2871.
Billet 71mm compressor wheel with extended tip, normal 6x6 blade configuration not full blade style.
Modified 53.9mm (standard GT28) turbine wheel.
Hopefully gain about 2-400rpm in spool and about 10-15% in airflow.
Hopefully have 30-35psi by 2000rpm, and pull like a 14yr old from 1400rpm instead of the 1700rpm now that it really gets into it, that's the goal anyway.
Not chasing HP really just torque, but if it makes a extra 20hp to give me 300rwhp, happy days.
750nm+ is the goal really.
Fingers crossed.
Marty
What engine is it?
TD42.
Off topic from your question, sorry about that.
Marty
Nice. I have just ordered a 18g from UFI.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambill
I would also like those torque fiqures. I have been hearing more about blokes snapping cranks when they are making those kind of torque fiqures. Do you know of any other stories of this happening?
Benny
I know of 3 cranks breaking.
At this stage I'm not to concerned about it really, I have a feeling driving style may have contributed to 2 of them and the other was a earlier non factory turbo engine.
2 were with less power than mine has been making for the last 100k km.
I am sure there are others out there that have broken though.
Going to try aluminium flywheel to drop a bit of weight from the end of the crank (7-8kg), need to look into a few other ideas also, but touch wood, it will survive.
Never know untill you try these things.
Marty
I do agree with the driving style factor, I was chatting to UFI yesterday and he did say dont just drop the clutch at 4000rpm which I dont or have any plans of doing, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambill
where I get my work done there have been plenty of 280hp rigs come out of that workshop havnt heard of them breaking cranks. I'm just keen to find out more about the factors behind these failures. and try to avoid it with still utilizing the power and torque it will have
with the aluminium crank, besides the obvious weight difference, would it make any other inprovments? engine responce?
Benny
From my experience lightened flywheels help the motor accelerate faster but de accelerate slower, engine response is a touch better but drivability changes a bit as well coz you loose some low end performance. Thats what i have found on my rotor not sure how it affects diesels but my original flywheel weighed around 10 kg and my new chrome molly one with a counter balance weight is around 3kg.
I did run a 11.5kg twin plate for a while which is 16.5kg lighter than the standard flywheel and clutch and it was great,
Except for the noise being solid clutch plate.
Drivability not a issue.
Marty
Cushion button with a 1 ton pressure plate, FUN!! But not in bumper to bumper traffic lol. Twin plate clutch is just more surface area for the friction material and doesn't really affect the flywheels performance as such. Heres a little test to do and let me know, idle the car in neutral and look at the revs then press the clutch and look at the change in revs, shouldn't be much just around 50 - 100 rpm you should hear it before you see it. That will show you how much play is on your thrust bearings on the crankshaft and how much the lightened flywheel will affect the motors balance.