Dimming the High Beam instrument lamp

Hi All

Maybe it is just me but when I am drving along with the high beams running I find the blue indicator on the instrument panel to bright and distracting. It appears in my model (07, 4.8, ST) that it is not dimmed like all the other instrument lamps.

So I found the right wire and inserted a couple of 33 ohm resistors in series with the lamp. So total 66 ohms. I used 1/4 watt resistors which are suitable as the dissipated wattage is only 0.19 watt each.

First a schematic of where we are breaking into the circuit.
Attachment 28877
Next find connector and right wire. We are looking for red wire with blue stripe on M21.
Attachment 28878
Which is located here behind the kick panel on drivers side.
Attachment 28879
So we need to cut this wire.
Attachment 28880
And I used a screw terminal to mount the resistors on.
Attachment 28881

Now the lamp is about a third of the brightness as before and much more easy on the eyes whilst driving at night.

Hope someone finds this useful. It has been annoying me since I've had the car.

Skip

Why not just use the dimmer ????
My 04 has one

Threedogs,I think the op is saying it does not dim with the other dash lights.
''It appears in my model (07, 4.8, ST) that it is not dimmed like all the other instrument lamps''

You have actually just made your car un roadworthy because its supposed to be bright so you are aware that the high beams are on so you don't forget they are on.

Hi Alitis007.

You highlight an important point. I am not proposing the indicator is disabled. The indicator is still performing its function and is still visible. Can you help with what the specifications are for "brightness" so that I can ensure I comply with the relevant ADR?

Thank you
Skip

Gee you'd have to be wearing dirty pants to be pinged for that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skipdh

Hi Alitis007.

You highlight an important point. I am not proposing the indicator is disabled. The indicator is still performing its function and is still visible. Can you help with what the specifications are for "brightness" so that I can ensure I comply with the relevant ADR?

Thank you
Skip

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During a RWC inspect its generally carried out during the day so if the inspector cant see it coz its not bright enough then it fails. I have to look into it further and read up what the book says so i'll have to get back to you...

Altis007,

Mate whilst I dont doubt that you know what you are talking about,

I think you are drawing a pretty long bow on this one.

Mate in the the 30 years I have been driving and the many cars that I have owned the Hi Beam indicator light on all of them have had varying degrees of brightness. So as long as the light is working I don't see how they could ping you for it not being bright enough.

My wife's car Honda CRV the Hi Beam indicator is actually dimmed when the headlights are turned on(this goes for all the indicator lights). So by what you are saying the Hi Beam indicator should be tested when the head lights are off, but the problem is when you flick the hi beam on to test the hi beam indicator light the light is automatically dimmed by the fact the headlight circuit has been activated.

So as long as the light on the original posters vehicle is working and visible, I don't see how your vehicle could be failed for it not being bright enough.

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

During a RWC inspect its generally carried out during the day so if the inspector cant see it coz its not bright enough then it fails. I have to look into it further and read up what the book says so i'll have to get back to you...

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What!!!!! the inspectors in Melbourne actually sit inside your car, Fark these Sydney inspectors are lazy, I have never has an inspector sit inside my car, I sit in it and turn the indicator lights / high and low beam, brake etc........... on for them. Next rego i'm going to tell em to do it themselves!

Where on the rwc report does it say tick this box if not bright enough.
I cant remember seeing it as a question to be answered
High beam indicator light tick,,oh wait not bright enough ,,,,,you fail
WTF

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MC97GQ

Altis007,

Mate whilst I dont doubt that you know what you are talking about,

I think you are drawing a pretty long bow on this one.

Mate in the the 30 years I have been driving and the many cars that I have owned the Hi Beam indicator light on all of them have had varying degrees of brightness. So as long as the light is working I don't see how they could ping you for it not being bright enough.

My wife's car Honda CRV the Hi Beam indicator is actually dimmed when the headlights are turned on(this goes for all the indicator lights). So by what you are saying the Hi Beam indicator should be tested when the head lights are off, but the problem is when you flick the hi beam on to test the hi beam indicator light the light is automatically dimmed by the fact the headlight circuit has been activated.

So as long as the light on the original posters vehicle is working and visible, I don't see how your vehicle could be failed for it not being bright enough.

Mark

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When i do RWC inspections if i cant see the light then you car FAILS! Auto dimming of the interior lights is one thing but the brightness of the blue high beam indicator has to be clearly visible in all conditions. I might have not have been clear before but i'll try now, if the resistance that the OP has put into the circuit to lower the brightness of the high beam indicator has made it so low it cant be clearly made out then it fails.

But like i said i'll have a look at the book and get back to this thread!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2

What!!!!! the inspectors in Melbourne actually sit inside your car, Fark these Sydney inspectors are lazy, I have never has an inspector sit inside my car, I sit in it and turn the indicator lights / high and low beam, brake etc........... on for them. Next rego i'm going to tell em to do it themselves!

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When we do the test we have to make sure all retractable seat belts retract, lock and are not damaged in any way, we check the drivers seat is not torn and has any exposed springs for the back rest or has excessive play in the mechanism, we check the front de mister blows hot air to the windscreen, the "T" bar light (PRND21) works when the lights are on, hand break warning light turns on, high beam indicator works and is bright enough to be seen, the cluster back lighting lights up the dials and doesn't have any blown globes, check the horn, electric mirrors work in all directions, steering wheel grip is not damaged or loose, drivers door hand and window work.

Theres a bit in it and everything that we have to inspect is not listed on the certificate but in the inspectors guidelines there is an extensive list that we go thru to make sure the car is safe. Licensed vehicle testers also have to do a structural awareness course aswell, so if we can see that a car has been in an accident and has been repaired incorrectly it will also fail.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Where on the rwc report does it say tick this box if not bright enough.
I cant remember seeing it as a question to be answered
High beam indicator light tick,,oh wait not bright enough ,,,,,you fail
WTF

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The certificate has a generalized check list on it, we the write down the specific things that fail in the bit it says description.

So all GUs fail anyway as belts dont retract

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

When we do the test we have to make sure all retractable seat belts retract, lock and are not damaged in any way, we check the drivers seat is not torn and has any exposed springs for the back rest or has excessive play in the mechanism, we check the front de mister blows hot air to the windscreen, the "T" bar light (PRND21) works when the lights are on, hand break warning light turns on, high beam indicator works and is bright enough to be seen, the cluster back lighting lights up the dials and doesn't have any blown globes, check the horn, electric mirrors work in all directions, steering wheel grip is not damaged or loose, drivers door hand and window work.

Theres a bit in it and everything that we have to inspect is not listed on the certificate but in the inspectors guidelines there is an extensive list that we go thru to make sure the car is safe. Licensed vehicle testers also have to do a structural awareness course aswell, so if we can see that a car has been in an accident and has been repaired incorrectly it will also fail.

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Holy Sh!t, George you know how many times I have asked when are you coming to Sydney..........................I've had a rethink you better stay in Melbourne, I like all my dodgy lazy inspectors....

Why do I need a T-Bar light???? I don't need to read to know what gear its in, except for them odd occasions when I bump it from D into N when I think I am in 2nd :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2

Holy Sh!t, George you know how many times I have asked when are you coming to Sydney..........................I've had a rethink you better stay in Melbourne, I like all my dodgy lazy inspectors....

Why do I need a T-Bar light???? I don't need to read to know what gear its in, except for them odd occasions when I bump it from D into N when I think I am in 2nd :)

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I'll get there eventually Toddie lol. I think the NSW RTA's Vehicle standards information might be a little bit different from VIC's but i know a few loop holes to pass vehicle inspections and EPA tests lol and i guess you've got nothing to worry about coz vic certificates cant be used in NSW.

The "T" bar light is for safety but also falls into one of the VSI categories which i can't remember right now lol but its the same category as the high beam light and other warning lights, they have to work and work correctly.

Here is the problem! Define working? Working means on or off, not how bright.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NP99

Here is the problem! Define working? Working means on or off, not how bright.

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Did you miss CORRECTLY or in other word how it left the factory or how it was initially designed to comply and meet ADR's.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

The "T" bar light is for safety but also falls into one of the VSI categories which i can't remember right now lol but its the same category as the high beam light and other warning lights, they have to work and work correctly.

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I know that George I was just stir-in :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2

I know that George I was just stir-in :)

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I know mate it was more for people that don't know!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skipdh

Hi All

Maybe it is just me but when I am drving along with the high beams running I find the blue indicator on the instrument panel to bright and distracting. It appears in my model (07, 4.8, ST) that it is not dimmed like all the other instrument lamps.

So I found the right wire and inserted a couple of 33 ohm resistors in series with the lamp. So total 66 ohms. I used 1/4 watt resistors which are suitable as the dissipated wattage is only 0.19 watt each.

First a schematic of where we are breaking into the circuit.
Attachment 28877
Next find connector and right wire. We are looking for red wire with blue stripe on M21.
Attachment 28878
Which is located here behind the kick panel on drivers side.
Attachment 28879
So we need to cut this wire.
Attachment 28880
And I used a screw terminal to mount the resistors on.
Attachment 28881

Now the lamp is about a third of the brightness as before and much more easy on the eyes whilst driving at night.

Hope someone finds this useful. It has been annoying me since I've had the car.

Skip

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Well done mate, my road cruiser had the same problem, way too bright.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

Did you miss CORRECTLY or in other word how it left the factory or how it was initially designed to comply and meet ADR's.....

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What about after market LEDs? They too are brighter than OEM! Would they fail on a RWC?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NP99

What about after market LEDs? They too are brighter than OEM! Would they fail on a RWC?

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Depends what style and where they are used, if they used to illuminate an instrument cluster they must have the correct amount of spread so there is no shading. If they are used as number plate and parking/ stationary lights they must be white in color, not blue, red, green ect. If they are used in head lights they must not be brighter that 4500k (kelvin) same goes for halogen and xenon gas filled globes but but HID head lights fall into another category with projector style head lights. Long story short they need to have a leveling device installed into the head light assembly, but thats got nothing to do with interior lighting.

If you go onto your local RTA's website the VSI's ( vehicle standard information) should be listed BUT reading and understanding 1 section doesn't mean something is correct or incorrect, you need to read it all and have an understanding how the VSI's and ADR's work together!

Is that true about headlights not allowed to be above 4500k?

Great idea dimming that poxy bright high beam warning light. How about using a potentiometer instead, which would also alleviate the issue of the light being too dim for the likes of George come testing time?????!!!!!!

Don't slap it, tap it!!!!

Hi Clunk

That is a good idea. I was also thinking about a switch that bypasses the resistor and brings it back to default brightness. If anyone is looking at doing this mod I found that even tho it is dimmer it is still bright enough to see during daylight.

With respect to a pot, a 50 or 100 ohm 1 watt unit would work fine....

skip

Mmmmm i reacon if they can drive fast enough to look in the window while i have high beam on and see the light isnt bright enough and pinch me for it they have done there job (tax payer funded) i would pay the fine. just kidding it great that someone knows the rules and cares enough to pass it on must of bent them myself even without knowing

I haven been caught yet. I'm living on the edge........

Sent from my GT-I9210T using Motorculture mobile app

I have to say I agree with Alitis007.

But each to their own risk.

Evo