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Hi All,
While trying to clean out the cap/hood/sheath around the oil pressure sender I accidently snapped one of the wires. In my efforts to remove the sender to repair the wire or replace the unit, I snapped the remaining one as well.
I had tried every angle imaginable with a variety of tools but I can't get the damn thing to budge.
Helpful tips would be appreciated.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...tall!&p=312462
Just found this thread - might give this idea a go.
It may have been installed using a loctite product. I think you will need a lot of pressure using a 1/2" uni joint on a ratchet and extension. That's if I understand your problem correctly.
Maybe you need to shock it to break the seal
Clockwise, then anticlockwise ?Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
OR apply some heat if safe to do so.
Yeah, I thought of that too, except its pretty tight in there!Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
How about a set of vice grips
Is it possible to belt a large size "easy out" into it???
Does the sender unit have any flats on it? Try clamping a g clamp to the unit. This will give you something to hold onto as well as increase your leverage.
The g-clamp sound like the way to go - so damn tight in there, bugger all roomQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Or try one of those manifold stud removers. I think Trade Tools in Nambour have them
Thats what a vice grip is, You know those plyers with the screw at the back,
made for this job
I'm thinking that the sender unit is probably a little big for just standard vice grips.
Many options.......it's all about how much swinging room you have.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
The sender unit would have to be huge for the grips not to work!Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
yeah, couldn't do it with the vice grips that I have - plus I wanna reattach the wires and reinstall so I don't wanna trash it too much...Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
I know it might be a little hot. But take the car for a hard run then try and crack it. Failing that I have plenty of tools down here if you want a hand.
Remember guys to read the op. He only broke the wires off it he hasn't broken the fitting that attaches it to the block.
On really tight things, I have always found that trying to tighten a bit first can crack them.
As above, get the engine warm as well, that little bit of expansion could well help.
Mate, what is it exactly that won't budge? The sender or a cap on the sender that the wires run to?Quote:
Originally Posted by soulburner2000
Finally going to get another chance to have a go at it tonight. Will get the engine warm again, and will try to tighten then crack if possible. If trashing it is neccessary to get it out, so be it - they can't be that expensive to replace...Quote:
Originally Posted by fracster
Thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions.....
What's your guess on their price? Looking at eBay, which I consider the cheapest option, a new genuine sender unit will set you back about 140 for the 4.2 engine. Cheaper for the 3l. I'd hate to imagine what nissan will ask...
Yes, it's definitely a shop around part, try Bursons in Nambour.
4.2ltr, wagon, auto, dual fuelQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
....or the wreckers up the roadQuote:
Originally Posted by NP99
the sender...cap was on tight, was quite dirty plus dry and brittleQuote:
Originally Posted by NP99
finally got the s0n-of-a-biscuit last night. Then wasn't sure to which contact the yellow wire or black wire went, so took a (hopefully) lucky guess and soldered them back on.
Gregory's manuals are the most hopeless thing I've ever read with these vehicles - they assume you know where everything is and that you know what you're doing - and have so many innaccurate photos and incorrect 'suggestions', I now know why they are shrink wrapped so you can't look at them before purchase
Bugger. Did you end up guessing correctly? How did you end up getting it off in the end?
So true, I also bought a Haines because of the limited info.Quote:
Originally Posted by soulburner2000
Not sure yet if I guessed correctly. I took the radiator out and flushed everything (removed engine block plug also), and found that I had additional space to have another go (removed all the hoses and took off as much wiring as I could that was also in the way). Lots of 'freeze and release, a g-clamp and some movement to-and-fro, then the correct size spanner on the nut (lucky guess) and it slowly shifted. I couldn't believe it. I was minutes away from posting on here that it couldn't be done and whoever said it could were liars (joking). But having as much room as possible definitely helps...Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
I wanted a Haines, but was told that Haines had bought Gregory's (or vice-versa) and they were the same now. I managed to get a few additional manuals online, but I prefer having clear images and words in front of me while I'm working.Quote:
Originally Posted by NP99
By the way, I have an old hardcover Gregory's manual for my xc falcon (came with the car when I bought it early 90's), and it is so detailed and accurate, I haven't got a bad word to say about it. Guess they lost their way...
They must have used two separate teams when they developed the manuals. Gregory's are so generic these days:(Quote:
Originally Posted by soulburner2000
Just get a non-genuine sender from Repco. The thread is 1/8 BPT, 10mm will fit at a pinch.Some have two connections some only one but they all work the same