Help with GQ starting troubles from cold

Engine is a TB42. I got it back from the mechanic who said everything is fine. Started it this morning cold and it was running on 5 cylinders and stalling bad and black smoke everywhere, it had never done this before. I called the mechanic who came out to my work and revved the crap out of it and said it was a fouled spark plug.

I'm really lost on where to go from here. The main problem is it revs high on startup (1500-2000rpm) and runs really rough, almost stalls then revs back up, runs on 5 cylinders. Once it's warm it runs like a dream, no problems at all. The mechanic said the auto choke is fine and not sticking, and he can't pinpoint anything else wrong. Plugs, leads and pertronix are only 10,000km old
Oh, it's not LPG.

Any ideas? Could it be the pertronix or the coil? If it was these it wouldn't run well once warm right?

Not sure bout what could be wrong with your rig mate but by the sounds of it you need a new mechanic. Just a thought could be injectors, if it was a fouled plug why did he not change it/them.

If the coil was faulty, the whole lot would be affected, not just missing on one cylinder.
Get a working spark plug (not from your car but same / similar type) and cut the bent bit next to the electrode off. Disconnect the HT lead from one of the spark plugs and connect it to the 'Test plug'. Cutting the bent electrode bit off increases the distance the spark has to jump, replicating the inside of the combustion chamber when under compression.
Use this to test each lead to each plug by earthing the body to the engine.
You want to crank it, but not start it, so you can remove a relay for the fuel system to prevent it from starting.
If the spark at the end of a lead is nice and clear and consistent, then that lead is good.
Do it to all 6.
Check the dizzy cap for tracking (carbon build-up) inside and any cracks or lines. This can cause the spark to run down the cap and earth, instead of the HT lead.
Check all injector electrical connections to ensure they are functioning.
Make sure each injector is firing by using an LED test light on the wiring. It should flash each time it is active.
Not sure if the choke is auto or manual or how it functions but that would be the other idea.
I'd consider checking the inlet, air filter and possibly manifold for carbon build-up and also the blow-by to see if there are other contributing issues

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lieney

If the coil was faulty, the whole lot would be affected, not just missing on one cylinder.
Get a working spark plug (not from your car but same / similar type) and cut the bent bit next to the electrode off. Disconnect the HT lead from one of the spark plugs and connect it to the 'Test plug'. Cutting the bent electrode bit off increases the distance the spark has to jump, replicating the inside of the combustion chamber when under compression.
Use this to test each lead to each plug by earthing the body to the engine.
You want to crank it, but not start it, so you can remove a relay for the fuel system to prevent it from starting.
If the spark at the end of a lead is nice and clear and consistent, then that lead is good.
Do it to all 6.
Check the dizzy cap for tracking (carbon build-up) inside and any cracks or lines. This can cause the spark to run down the cap and earth, instead of the HT lead.
Check all injector electrical connections to ensure they are functioning.
Make sure each injector is firing by using an LED test light on the wiring. It should flash each time it is active.
Not sure if the choke is auto or manual or how it functions but that would be the other idea.
I'd consider checking the inlet, air filter and possibly manifold for carbon build-up and also the blow-by to see if there are other contributing issues

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Thanks mate, it's doing my head in even more now. I left it for 5 hours and just started it, it was perfect. First time its started like that in months. I gave it a proper flogging this afternoon, im wondering if it's blown out the gremlin as i never drive it hard, even when out bush, just idles up everything. Will report back in the morning when i crank it over again, if it plays up its going to be a big weekend.

With a pertronix its got to be a carby.

High rev sounds like the autochoke need adjustment.

How do you know its running on 5 cyclinders?

Could it be valve stem seal (do the tb42 have these) - I would pull the plugs and see if any are foled?

The thing is it wasnt all that bad until the mechanic adjusted stuff on wednesday. Now it does this crazy chugging and engine sounds like its about to die and revs like its running on 5. The chugging missing sound. I'm wondering what the mechanic could have done to make this start happening as it wasnt happening before. But this is only happening about one in ever 3 cold starts. I've checked the auto choke and it seems fine

I would take it back to the mechanic - he done something to make it play up

I had a problem on my rb30 with the EF alt i had fitted. The alt would not kick in on start - would kick in 100 metres down the road.

The truck would run bad - missing wanting to stall etc until the alt kicked in - next time it does it have a look at the battery metter on the dash - what level?

Mechanic came out yesterday at work when it wouldn't go and told me that it was a fouled plug and not something he has done. im really not sure, here in canberra there is a carby specialist 45 minutes out of town, im thinking a drive out there might be worth it. Not going to pick it up until it is fixed.

The mechanic fitted a kill switch as well, wondering if this has something to do with it

Sounds similar to my Rb30 after it backfired (MY FAULT). It turned out to be the choke break diaphragm, had a small tear in it. Don't know if the tb42 has the same set up though.

There is a small spring in behind the fast idle cam and if its fitted in back to front it jams the fast idle cam.If it is incorrect the choke wont open properly and the carby will flood and the motor will stall and possible sound like its on 5 cyls. It`s very hard to fit correctly with the carby on the car but can be done. But it is easy to fit on back to front. I know it`s hard to find some one who has a lot of carby knowledge these days but try and find someone who specializes in carburation

I would say check the fast idle cam as well, if it aint been put on properly it revs like shit ( i know because I stuffed up when i rebuild my mates carby on his Mav ), as for the miss fire.. do the norm.. switch the leads around, and the pugs.. then look for more serious stuff, i have in the past had leads that miss fire when an engine is cold yet the are fine when it warms up

check the GQ BIBLES http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...atrol-Software they have a really good exploded image of the carby and how it should all go together

Cheers mate. I've checked everything that i can with my mechanical retardness, and everything seems fine, plugs, leads, battery etc. I went to a wreckers yesterday to pick up some parts and the guy there recommended an old backyard mechanic that apparently knows carbys very well. I will give him a call and book her in for after the easter break, fingers crossed he can solve the issue.

Also, when i first was playing with it yesterday my brakes went straight to the floor, still work but only at the very end. I had the other mechanic fit an extended brake line in the rear. He bled the brakes but i've found fluid leaking from the reservoir, like it was overfilled, it's stopped now. I'm guessing i just need to bleed the brakes again as air has got in the lines, or maybe brake booster gone? Just no pressure at all until its almost at the firewall.

Thanks for all the help fellas, it's appreciated.

simy, whack the brake question on another thread. I found posting specific topics gets a good response from a wider range of knowledgable members

the carbys are not that complex, read the bible, pull it apart, chuck a kit in it ( autobahn 75$ for full rebuild kit ) for some reason people seem to think carbs are a complex thing they aint. do it yourself save some coin, then next time it stuffs up, of if it dies on you somewhere out in the middle of the never never you will know how to fix it

Finally all sorted, basically the last mechanic screwed the carby by opening the butterfly fully. he stuffed with the auto choke and made all the settings wrong.

The mechanic that just fixed it called me in to have a close look at it. The carby was leaking at the top and once taken out down the bottom as well. the butterflys were open on startup thus flooding it as i thought. Had to get the carby reconditioned, timing fixed, new auto choke, all new lines. I cant believe the last two mechanics, im really pissed off about it all. the state of the vacuum lines was terrible, and yet no one else picked it up.

Anyway she runs better than she ever has now, starts up and idles at 600rpm and i can take off straight away without waiting for it to warm up. Finally after 4 months my issues are resolved and i can enjoy the car again. Long story short is that there are VERY FEW mechancs these days that can do what they say. It took 3 different ones to finally sort out my problems.

Good to see that you found a good mechanic. Put his name up so others can go to him.

I'll happily give Ritchie a good plug here.

So ritchie from Hume Off Road Centre in Hume ACT 06 6260 2005.

Rang me every step of the way and told me to come back free of charge if the revving was to come back.