Guys I have a warn xd9000 on my vehicle and wanted to know what length and size rope to put on and a good supplier.Also we tyested the soleinoid pac and they were all u/s so need three more as i already sourced 1 in mackay but was all they had.
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Guys I have a warn xd9000 on my vehicle and wanted to know what length and size rope to put on and a good supplier.Also we tyested the soleinoid pac and they were all u/s so need three more as i already sourced 1 in mackay but was all they had.
Hi mate I have a tabor 9k winch (made by warn and same size ) and I upgraded to rope and got 9mm x 35 m and I don't think you would want to put much more then that on as during winching it can bunch depending on the situation and you dont want it to bind up or jam in it , I got mine off ebay and have had it for a year and done some decent pulls with it.
Ps.
Also I got a 2nd rope protector for my rope to protect the first layer from heat from the drum
Yeah I reckon 35m will be to much. You want at least 9mm but 10mm would be better.
Junk your solenoid box completely and buy a solid state solenoid like a Titan for long service and a cheaper price. No brainer. Junk them.
Ebay
If you went 10mm I don't think you would want more than 28m to make sure it fits , the only thing that put me off thicker rope was the length loss. also you will have to replace your fairlead for a rope compatible one.
And from what I read when looking into rope for mine they are apparently 20% stronger than wire of the same diameter so if yours came with 8mm then getting 10mm would be a big improvement in strength.
Be aware also that a Low Mount winch has the Brake built into the inside of the drum. If you use Winch out allot then the drum can get really HOT! A plasma doesn't like hot. Buy a 5m sheath for the first few wraps of the drum to protect it from the heat a little.
I am a big fan of 10mm rope at least for your GQ or GU as they are a heavy car. 28m is plenty and a winch extension strap will sort the rest out.
Where would you get a rope sheath? Or do you make it?Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
You can pick em up prity cheap on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/sis.html?...K+4X4+GQ+HILUX
You'll be saving a bit of weight to. 30 mtrs of steel cable weighs maybe 15-20kg
Dyneema /plasma bugger all ,has to be a good thing even changing the roller fairlead
to a Hawes will save even more weight. As you can go poly style for lighter again.
All Pluses IMO, #0-35 mtr of 10mm what now $200, well worth it, why all that weight
on your front end
What are the issues around Dyneema etc getting pulled in to wraps on the winch. What is needed to ensure the rope does not bunch or get between wraps and become a solid mess?? Any advice/comments please.
rope is a lot easier to work, once you try it you won’t go back to wire, the main reason i mentioned it jamming earlier is when most people upgrade to rope they more the likely upgrade its thickness and Length therefore maxing out the available space on the winch so for example if you are pulling slightly to the left and it keeps winding on itself and your unaware there’s a higher chance of it filling and jamming. The main thing that would kill your rope would be winching on rocks ledges and having it rub on the rocks so it’s just common sense treat it like you would any rope but keep in mind your pride any joy will be hanging on it lol.
The big plus for me is that it is so much safer than a wire rope.
If plasma breaks it basically falls to the ground with very little re coil you then tie a knot and continue.
Wire rope will cut a limb clean off, must be some terrible injuries from days gone by, To avoid your plasma breaking over rocks
pack a length of conveyor the width of your cargo area, lay it down over sharp rocky/terrain.
No splinters either. Those things suck.
It is a great technique when spooling on your rope to not be too concerned about nice layered runs. I fact they are your enemy. Tight spools like a steel cable will jamb if you do a big heavy hard winch pull and the upper layers will jamb and embed into the power layers and can be a right biatch to get out.
You should unspool at the top of the winch hill at least the amout of rope you just used and spool in properly.
Spooling properly should be done like this.
Winch in constantly. The winch man should allow the rope to spool on and every 15 seconds or so do a fast slash of the rope from one end of the drum to the other dissecting the spool. If that makes sense. You will do that 3 or 4 times back and forth then spool on straight again. Repeat.
This then puts cross sections under the layers of rope and the layers can't embed in the layers below.
Winner!
If you have a low mount with the brake in the drum which is where most of them (but not all) are located...... Avoid winching out unless it is absolutely necessary. Definitely resist the urge to power out the cable and disconnect the drive using the clutch and run out your rope by hand.
Winches with the brake in the drum disperse the heat generated by conduction thru the steel winch cable in contact with the drum and convection thru the air gaps in between the wraps.
Synthetic packs virtually flat with no air gap and is a very poor conductor of heat. This traps any heat in the drum and can be a significant issue. On a couple of occasions I have had to strip down winches for people that looked like a plastic dinner plate had been wrapped around the drum and melted with the oxy but the outer wraps were fine