Howdy all .....can anyone tell me if the automatic choke can be disconnected and if so will it effect anything or can the warm up time be adjusted as i feel it is warming up for to long at the high refs any suggestions be appreciated....cheers
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Howdy all .....can anyone tell me if the automatic choke can be disconnected and if so will it effect anything or can the warm up time be adjusted as i feel it is warming up for to long at the high refs any suggestions be appreciated....cheers
Its all controlled by the ECU. Id like you to show me where its located lol.
If its holding the rpm up while warming up and you believe its taking to long you need to check its reaching operating temp during warm up and after the rpm drops. could be your coolant temp sensor giving the ecu a false value or temp.
X2 on the thermostat temp sensor - also, could be the idle control motor beside the AAC (at the back of the intake plenum against the firewall). Not sure how to test that, but a new thermo temp sensor is about $42 at bursons as a relatively cheap and easy "first attempt" to fix. The ECU is under the carpet high up on the passenger side footwell (under the glovebox) and are pretty mindless old critters for adjustment of this type ... I'd start with the temp sensor first, have someone check the idle control motor and move forward from there ...Quote:
Originally Posted by davo94
Could also be a bad batch of fuel, or even (remote) a stuck open thermostat itself (let's the fluid flow round and round and takes heaps longer at idle to heat - hence revs stay up as the temp sensor is telling the ECU that it's cold).
And the list goes on ...
Good luck with it mate, and let us know how you go.
Thanks fellas.....yeah it starts good as gold goes straight to about 1500rpm and will drop eventually to about 1000rpm, but I have not timed it to see how long it will stay at the higher revs....like all petrol I have never thought they really need to be warmed up....so can just disconnecting the choke be a option and a simple one at that ???.........my stock 351c starts with a bit of a pump on the peddle with no choke whatsoever and I'm away laughing, never warmed it up and she runs like a charm I don't flog it when cold but it fires and runs sweet food for thought why have a choke ? do i need the one on the TB42E ??..... .cheers
Lets just say, if you didn't need a choke would car manufactures put one on there when the car was been made, or would they not put it on and save some $$$.Quote:
Originally Posted by oxmann
Apparently they put them on for the world wide market....cold places ,hot places don't matter you got it weather you like it or not,so I did something about it and disconnected it I don't need it....basically the choke works cause it gets more fuel...right ?? and to get more fuel you need more air..right ?? so as I am not to techy on the right names of parts etc on the vehicle I disconnected and blocked the pipe that supplies the air to the auto choke thingy...lol , and then adjusted the idle which is a inverted screw by the firewall(not on the firewall)back of motor..!! (I need to post some pics maybe, so you guys know what I'm talking about ) bingo fixed.. no more high idling and wasting fuel...you guys wouldn't need a choke in Oz anyway...would you ?? to damn hot :1062:Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
And to answer you Bigrig I did change the thermostat temp sensor and seen no positive results then changed the thermostat and yes that was buggered so was not getting up to operating temp, but that still didn't fix the problem, still high revs for to long.....so in a nut shell that thingy that controls the choke (has a butterfly in it I have been told) which is on the right hand side of the block down under everything and barely accessible is the culprit. So as I said I blocked the air supply to it which causes no problems at all by doing that. And now is good as gold, had it like that now for 4 weeks and running like a charm.
Hope this sort of helps someone else out with a similar problem maybe. Can post some pics if anyone keen to see where and what the thingy bits I am talking about are ...lol
Have you got a photo of what you disconnected? No one specifically pointed out that EFI engines don't have a choke. It's for carbys only.
Hope this helps,disconnected hose where pen points put on a short hose and blocked it off, same with original hose that runs down right side of block put a bolt in it to stop any crap getting in there...also pic of idle screw I just dropped idle down to 700rpm and has been good as goldQuote:
Originally Posted by patrol_maverick
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awww bugger... will try to do pics again...not quite sure how to do them will search forum for info
There you go easy as and all done with a "MAC"....lol
Note in one of the pics you will see the original hose to the right...I just put a bolt in it to stop any crap getting in there
Cool mate - in my other post I suggested idle control motor, but that is the one you have blocked the pipe on, so renders it useless anyway. The other one is the idle screw you mention - that is the AAC (auxiliary air control) unit and adjusting that screw increases or decreases air intake ability at idle ... normally used to adjust base idle also.Quote:
Originally Posted by oxmann
Glad you've sorted it.
Thanks Bigrig you were right on the button alright, but I didn't know it.. :1087: ...I had a friend show me some things to look at and maybe try which is what I did but I didn't know there correct part names but your suggestions did point me in the right direction and thanks for that. So here is a couple of beers for you to wash the dust away :beer: :beer: and thanks again