All,
Wanting a steel roof rack for my trol...
Tigerz11 has one at a fair price.... Anyone got one and what are they like..... Can anyone else suggest any other brands ???
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All,
Wanting a steel roof rack for my trol...
Tigerz11 has one at a fair price.... Anyone got one and what are they like..... Can anyone else suggest any other brands ???
Be very careful buying a cheap Chinese roof rack. I have seen some horrific pics of the Paint literally Washing off and running rust stained down a nice clean White GUIV! It was not a TigerzII but as good a quality.
Just be careful. Think about the weight of these things too (50kg+)
If you can be patient you will come across an "Oval" brand Alloy rack for a great price second hand on ebay. I see them fairly often for around the $300 to $400 mark. TJM also did a great Alloy Rack.
I have one of these on my GUIV HD-Powder-Coated-Aluminium-Roof-Rack-Cage-for-Nissan-Patrol-GQ-GU-180cm-Length- and have been pretty happy with it. It did the Madigan Line fairly well loaded, you just need to be wise when loading it up. But it weighs 25kg tops!
If your looking for a Steel one specifically then figure out what you are actually going to put on it. do you need all that weight up there.
When comparing steel ones though take note of how many cross bars are built into the deck of the rack, (tigerz are generally a number less than others) and How many feet down each side? minimum 4 a side.
Hey Muddy
Thanks for the update... I like the second link you gave me.... I wanted a rack for a awning and lights.... Also could be used when we go camping and if I need extra storage... for gear....
I love this forum... great advise at anytime :-)
No Probs,
Check out this thread for some pics of my GUIV with an Alloy rack fully loaded with a 2.5m Awning on the side and a 1.2m awning across the back
MudRunnerTD-doing-the-Madigan-Line-2012
Sorry i have not got a pic of the awnings both setup but i should take one over christmas. The awnings are ARB and got them as a package at the 4x4 show last year for $500 for the two. was only a bit more than the other brands but really happy to have the ARB brand on the car versus Ironman or Tigerz to be honest and happy to pay the premium for that.
One member here is just repairing his GU where a cheap roof rack split his roof off. look for his thread, and if you think he's not a happy camper your right, we are talking $$$$$ on dollars in repairs. you'll also need full gutter support to take the load and a mesh floor as well. Stay well away from the cheap brands as they'll have no back up. stick to known brands may cost more and there is a reason for it, they last. A few sturdy roof bars and a basket may be all you need, personally I'm using 3 Rhino aero bars and building my own with brackets for light bars and awnings all built in, with a low tie down rail along the side. Once again talk to ppl at servo, supermarkets you'll get real world answers not salesman BS.
a well built aluminium rack is better than a big heavy steel one, if you opt for steel get a full gutter support type as it will spead the weight better as suggested by Threedogs but you have to be carefull with weight, if your running steel bar, winch, steel rims, steel rack, draws etc etc you run the risk of to much weight on the vehicle all the time, the weight a vehicle is allowed to carry is governed by how many seats in the vehicle, the more seats the more weight you can carry, people often make the mistake of removing the rear seats (dickie seats) to make room for drawers, once removed you have removed your option to carry more weight legally, it is a risk most people are happy to make but you should also know the consequences of overloading a vehicle if there is a accident, I am a firm believer in quality aluminium roof racks, no need to be too top heavy, steel isnt always better
Is that true? That doesn't sound logical to me that just because you remove seats it alters the carrying capacity of the vehicle. I would have thought it could carry 500kegs or it couldn't ......Quote:
Originally Posted by Morton
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
it is based on how it is registered, 7 seats allow x amount of weight due to passanger weight, 5 seats allows less weight, removing the 2 rear seats requires your vehicle to be registered accordingly, I only know this as a mate just went through it all with an engineer even though structually the vehicle didnt change, I was a bit dumbfounded by it all but it was all because of Insurance, if you remove the rear seats it is modifying the vehicle, same as fitting them into one that isnt registered as a seven seater, the vehicle has to be registered accordingly, any illegal modifications can cause you policy to become null & void, usually you only find out when you make a claim, most of the time they dont care or look or care to look but I have seen claims knocked back due to illegal modifications, if you are paying $20k plus you would want to know your covered if you hit someone or if someone hits you & they are uninsured
I'd like to see some info on this one if any one has any.. It wouldn't surprise me though with the dumb ass regulations they are putting on everything but this one would take the cake
Give your states rta a call..........Quote:
Originally Posted by megatexture
Don't stroke it, TAP it!!!!.....
might have to call them then get pass around the office on hold.while they look for someone there that knows the answer may take some time
Okey dokey, I'll shut up then.
and on the 7th day, the almighty crapped n tapped!!!!!
I have a full length steel one, made down in London some while back,got a makers plaque on it. It was free, so an offer too good to resist, I did want an ally one, but free is free after all.
Seriously, that's sounds like a gob-smackingly stupid regulation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Morton
Why, then do they make it possible to easily remove 3rd row seats?
Most manufacturers promote this as a load carrying feature.....
I still can't see how reducing the number of passengers reduces what would be the GVM. The vehicle can carry the weight or it can't.
A commercial vehicle isn't de-rated for its load carrying capacity because it doesn't have seats.
I'm not convinced of that one.
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Just read that, pretty grim, at least it is not just us poms that get shafted with crap imported stuff, looks like you guys do as well. Trying to find well made British stuff is very difficult.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
hmm would removing seats and getting draws professionally installed fix that or would it be worse for the installers (any illegal modifications) or would the installers register it accordingly, as we would turn around and make a claim on the installers..
it is your responsibility to be sure you vehicle meets the codes/rules/regulations whatever regardless of what you have done or can buy for your vehicle, the guy selling you the gear doesnt care, you are another sale, some will forwarn you that an engineer is required, I think this particular engineer did it to the letter of all mods to the extreme, something else to know, if you lift a GR 2" you apparently have to fit a reverse light into the bumper, it has to be a designed reverse light, not just any light, apparently the revese light in the tall light version is over the hieght limit, again borderline & I wouldnt care, both my vehicles are engineered as a result of modifications, my GU has a single bolt at the back that had to be engineered, took 15min & cost $500 to fit & engineer, it was for a third anchorpoint, apparently in th GU it can only be fitted in one spot easily, I wasnt happy but my wife put it into perspective for me "your Daughters safety/life isnt worth $500" & the look that basically said 'do it or die a miserable death'
I will ask him again & get more detail, it was all blah blah blah to me, I wasnt interested but he went through some hoops to get it all done, this was also for insurance reasons, I believe this Engineer did it to the extreme, I spoke with the guy that engineered my Maverick before I bought it, he was far more relaxed about it, I believe the real issue here & has always been the 'interpretation' of the requirementsQuote:
Originally Posted by Drewboyaus
I have found this one which looks pretty decent for the price.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Steel-Roo...-/290632666070
I would prefer and alloy one though to keep the weight down, any recomendations for a cheap alloy one?
Yep....don't buy a cheap one. Buy a good quality/good value one. Buying cheap will nearly always result in further expense.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Beni C
Tip tip tip......tap tap tap....
X2
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
I wouldn't get it.. 50kg, that's near half your allowed weight up top..Quote:
Originally Posted by Beni C
If you don't need a full length go smaller..
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Cool cool, really want a full length alloy one though.
Might have to shell out for a ARB or Tracklander then.........
I just made one slim line wth all brackets for lights awning etc incorporated very happy and cheap too
seriously thinking about buying 1 of these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321093839...=p5197.c0.m619
ozz
@ Ozzyboy, Guy up the corner has one of these on his 80s,
only thing he said as we were only talking about it on the weekend.
was not enough powder coating where you can't see, causing rust marks.
plus its faded very quickly, only extra $80 to either powder coat again or grab some good enamel
Galvit spray cans and spray the lot again, other than that well built and tough as,just the finish letting it down.
could weld on all tabs for lights and awning before hand, just putting it out there, would I buy one, oh yeah
Like others have said, go for quality. The alloy ones are not as popular as steel so there's not too many available second hand. You can normally get one for half price if used of either. Steel is probably easier to weld if you best it half way long the Simpson